Solar Panel Installation Report

[KJRitchie]

OK, I see there are two IPN remotes; the standard and pro. I was looking at the standard model. The combination of the the 3024IL controller and IPN Remote Pro and temperature sensor is almost $700. Not sure it's worth it for just 200w to 400w.

Kelvin

[alano]

The IPN Remote Pro integrates well with the Blue Sky controllers. Perhaps the Trimetric is less expensive, but you don't get the nice integration and the single head. Some people get by without the battery monitor but I wouldn't recommend it.

[KJRitchie]

I like the features of the IPN Remote Blue Sky has a cheaper MPPT controller. The 2512IX is about $150 cheaper than the 3024. With 4 100w panels they should only output 22 amps on the best day. Would this work? I doubt I can put more than 2 panels on my roof; 2 Fantstic fans, 2 skylights, 1 AC and 1 Wingard TV antenna take up all the space.

Kelvin

[alano]

You'll exceed the rating on the 2512 so I would go with the SB3000 of you're planning on a 400 W system.

[KJRitchie]

Trimetric has now a 30amp controller, SC-2030 that can be used in conjunction with their 2030 monitor. The model is SC-2030 and is a PWM type controller that when used with the 2030 monitor can be programmed to match battery manufacturers charging requirements. With the Trimetric, shunt, temperature sensor and SC-2030 the cost is about $315 looking at Best Converters website. I think with my configuration of 200w of roof solar and a 200w portable panel this system may be the most cost effective and useable for me. Will continue research.

Kelvin

[switz]

Getting creative with positioning and orientation, we were able to put five 100 watt GS-100 panels on the roof of a 23D, which is a narrow body trailer. Its also has the air conditioner, two ceiling fans and a skylight down the middle.

We will have nine of the same panels on the 31' Classic roof.

If installing both ground and trailer solar panels, both sets will need a disconnect switch so no connections are made with the possibility of the current flowing. Both switches should be off when connecting and disconnection to prevent any issues inside the solar charge controller.

Buying undersized now will only cost more later if wire sizes need to be increased or a larger capacity controller is needed.

[alano]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Trimetric has now a 30amp controller, SC-2030 that can be used in conjunction with their 2030 monitor. The model is SC-2030 and is a PWM type controller that when used with the 2030 monitor can be programmed to match battery manufacturers charging requirements. With the Trimetric, shunt, temperature sensor and SC-2030 the cost is about $315 looking at Best Converters website. I think with my configuration of 200w of roof solar and a 200w portable panel this system may be the most cost effective and useable for me. Will continue research.

Kelvin

This looks like a solid PWM system. You'll need to be aware that all the panels must be connected in parallel and all must be 36 cell (12 V) panels. Putting two panels in parallel on the roof and using the existing pre-wiring will be fine, however in the future if you choose to put all four panels on the roof and in parallel, you might need to run heavier gauge wire from the combiner box down to your solar controller. Otherwise the price is very good.

[BoldAdventure]

Originally Posted by alano

You'll exceed the rating on the 2512 so I would go with the SB3000 of you're planning on a 400 W system.

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I like the features of the IPN Remote Blue Sky has a cheaper MPPT controller. The 2512IX is about $150 cheaper than the 3024. With 4 100w panels they should only output 22 amps on the best day. Would this work? I doubt I can put more than 2 panels on my roof; 2 Fantstic fans, 2 skylights, 1 AC and 1 Wingard TV antenna take up all the space.

Kelvin

Gotta disagree Alano, that's the same one that came with my 400 watt kit from AMSolar and it worked fine I'd hit the max output of 25 amps all summer long. Worked great. And I'm still using it, slaved to the 3024IL for ground deploy.

[alano]

That's interesting Bold. The datasheet calls out for a recommended maximum of 340 W of solar. I guess if the panels happen to deliver 400 W on a cold day when the battery charge voltage is 13 V, the controller will find an operating point to max out the current to 25 A, even though a slightly larger controller could perhaps do a tad bit better. For example, let's say we actually generate 400 W, then at 13 V, assuming 96% efficiency, we should expect (400 W / 13 V) * 0.96 = 29.5 A into the batteries during charge.

I think the point is moot though since Kelvin is finding the Trimetric solar controller/monitor a much better value.

[KJRitchie]

Just wondering when you have roof solar and are connected to shore power do you disconnect the solar using an on off switch? If so, is the switch on the input or output side of the controller?

Kelvin

[BoldAdventure]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Just wondering when you have roof solar and are connected to shore power do you disconnect the solar using an on off switch? If so, is the switch on the input or output side of the controller?

Kelvin

Mine is always on. It knows when the battery is full and stops charging. Same with the converter.

[alano]

If you have roof solar, the solar charger is typically connected directly to the batteries. The positive connection is typically fused. It's recommended on solar installs to insert an on/off switch between the panels and the solar charger. This allows you to safely disconnect the panels from the solar charger is you ever need to do maintenance on the solar charger itself. For the on/off switch I use a rotary 50 A switch that you can commonly obtain from any autoparts store.

When connected to shore power, I typically disconnect my batteries from the trailer by selecting the Store position for the Use/Store switch. This disconnects the crude one-stage converter.

[KJRitchie]

When installing just two panels on the roof can you get away with just using a MC4 multibranch connector vs a combiner box? I can see the advantage of a combiner box for future upgrade.

Also, has anyone just made their own combiner box out of a junction box?

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Kelvin,

"Getting away with" always cost me more money later. I advise using the combiner box below:

Refrigerator Vent C-Box | Combiner Boxes

And running heavier gauge wiring now, for future upgrade. Then all you have to do is run another panel to the already provided buss bar in the combiner box. Is the above box overpriced? YES!...but doing something twice or inadequately adds to their price anyway, so.....

[alano]

If you can dress the wiring on the roof to your liking and make sure you waterproof the wires through the roof I think you could implement this in a variety of ways.

The reason I went with AM Solar's combiner box was that I could prepare custom length MC4 cables to connect the panels to the combiner box and use the waterproof connectors already identified by Am solar for this use. The cables were terminated with MC4 connectors on one end and terminate directly to bus bars in the combiner box. Am solar sold me the marine grade cable and waterproof connectors so I had no worry about compatibility.

[BoldAdventure]

You can also buy combiner boxes from home depot and elsewhere that don't cost $60 dollars. Not hard to make.

[KJRitchie]

Is everyone removing the 10g wire with MC4 connectors that come on the panels and replacing with 8g or better wire?


Kelvin

[alano]

No, that's unnecessary. The 10 AWG is more than sufficient to handle one panel, let alone four in the right configuration. I kept the panels as is and made custom cables to length to mate with the MC4 connectors.

[BoldAdventure]

Ditto.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by BoldAdventure

You can also buy combiner boxes from home depot and elsewhere that don't cost $60 dollars. Not hard to make.

Are there others that are long and narrow to go up under the fridge vent? I didnt look very hard.