Paralleling Honda 2000i, and Eco system

[Headhog]

Old trailer, old man, new member. I have read with much interest the articles about generator choices. I have one question that I have not seen discussed. A friend told me that when two 2000i units were run in parallel that the Eco system did not function and they ran all the time at the higher rpms. Please help me to know if this true or not. Many thanks in advance.

[jdalrymple]

Welcome to the forums!

Yes, this is true. The manual says to turn off the eco switches when parallel. I only pair mine to run the A/C, and when its hot enough to need A/C, the generators won't spend much time at low speed anyway.

Good Luck!

[dznf0g]

This is not true on the newest models. I am not sure about prior versions. I do know there have been at least three updates to the models since their introduction. I just got my Eu2000i and companion a few weeks ago and the owners manual says under AC parallel operation section, "During parallel operation, the Eco-Throttle switch should be in the same position on both generators." This is true whether you have two Eu2000Is or one EU200I and one EU2000i Companion.

I have just tested my gennies for about 1/2 hour a this point, but with both gennies in Eco Mode, a 1500watt hair dryer doesn't even move the units off idle. The hair dryer will move a single unit to about 3/4 throttle (by rpm/hour meter installed.

So the next question is, at what wattage is it more fuel efficient and/or better from a wear standpoint, to run both in parallel as opposed to one running under higher load?

[dznf0g]

When I look at the parts manual, these are the models and VIN breaks:

Model
A = 1000001 - 1036877
A/A = 1036878 - 116999

Then all these models start at 1170001
A/B, AC, AC1, AC2, AN, AN1, AN2
I have no idea what the current model designations mean, other than the ACs are
California models and the ANs are "national" models.

Then, to add to the confusion, there are EU2000I K1 models in the VINS above 1170001.

Also, when looking at the service manual as well as the parts manual, I find no difference between California and National models, other than the gas cap and cap tether.

[Mexray]

With regard to your question about running both gennys @ 'eco' or one under higher load...

I believe it would be better in the long run to use one genny at a time for your 'hair dryer' type load - maybe alternate between both to even up the total running times - I think the engines need to be operated with a higher 'load' occasionally to insure there is more even wear of the internal parts...

I 'broke in' our Honda 2K genny with regular engine oil, then replaced it with a synthetic type for continued use...about 5 years and counting so far!

Our only 'hick-up' was some crud in the carb when I forgot to drain the float bowl before storage a couple of years ago...easy to fix, but I'm more careful now!

I also only use mid-range octane fuel in our genny...it always starts right up, even up in the mt's above 5000 feet when we are in the boonies...

[Headhog]

Wow. Thanks for all of the quick responses. I had read a manual on line that did indicate that the only requirement was to have both units running on the same setting. Maybe the newest units have been improved. I would be very interested in anyone's input running both and just how much load it takes to get it out of Eco. Thanks again, Bill

[TBRich]

We have run both our Honda 2000 generators in parallel in eco mode. However, when we are using the AC I switch them both regular mode. When we don't need the AC I only run one generator and run it in eco mode. Even with both in full mode, you can tell when the AC starts up by the rev-up, and they relax a bit once the AC is going.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Mexray

With regard to your question about running both gennys @ 'eco' or one under higher load...

I believe it would be better in the long run to use one genny at a time for your 'hair dryer' type load - maybe alternate between both to even up the total running times - I think the engines need to be operated with a higher 'load' occasionally to insure there is more even wear of the internal parts...

I 'broke in' our Honda 2K genny with regular engine oil, then replaced it with a synthetic type for continued use...about 5 years and counting so far!

Our only 'hick-up' was some crud in the carb when I forgot to drain the float bowl before storage a couple of years ago...easy to fix, but I'm more careful now!

I also only use mid-range octane fuel in our genny...it always starts right up, even up in the mt's above 5000 feet when we are in the boonies...

I suspect you are correct with regard to alternating between the units...etc. I had planned to do just that. It would still satisfy my curiosity to know about the 1500 watt single vs. paralleling and fuel consumption, etc. I would imagine internal friction and heat loss of two units on Eco would make it not much difference. I'm not sure about the higher load thing though. It's not like they are really idling...ever. "Idle" is 3000 rpm. It's not like they are going to load up due to low speed idling.
I think the question of running them on ECO with the AC really boils down to the old question of what AC unit you have and how good is the start capacitor or system. I was reading on a marine forum about some of the conventional compressor ACs available to them which have an elaborate electronic/hard start capacitor system ($$$$$). Many of those guys are able to run one EU2000I with this start system.
I have been unable to determine if our RV AC units can be fitted with these systems or if the whole AC would work on an AS.

I also am breaking in on Honda conventional oil and will switch to Mobil 1
before winter storage.

[dznf0g]

I would also add re. the question of running two units with a lighter load vs. one with a heavier load, we need to consider not just the engine. The few issues I have found on the web about EU2000is have been with the inverter...and it cost $700 to replace...pretty much now have a parts donor and buy an entire new one. I'd bet high electrical loads and their associated inverter internal heat contribute to some of those failures.

[JBinKC]

My 2000s are new this year. My dealer, who's sold and serviced hundreds of 2000s, said: 1.) use premium gas because it has less ethanol, 2.) start and run the paralleled gennies with Eco off because they "hunt" otherwise, and 3.) start and run them with a load once a month to keep them starting like new. Most of their hours have been at elevations above 6,000 and they've worked perfectly so far.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by JBinKC

My 2000s are new this year. My dealer, who's sold and serviced hundreds of 2000s, said: 1.) use premium gas because it has less ethanol, 2.) start and run the paralleled gennies with Eco off because they "hunt" otherwise, and 3.) start and run them with a load once a month to keep them starting like new. Most of their hours have been at elevations above 6,000 and they've worked perfectly so far.

That's all good and logical advice. I would add; use Stabil (or the like brand of your choice) over winter, drain the carb during storage, and use Techron (or similar product) occasionally.

Really this is good advice for all you small gas engines, except starting one a month. I think for the gennies, this just ensures you will have a nice stsrt up when they are needed most. During an ice storm, hurricane, etc. you don't need to be tearing down a carb and hunting parts. I don't start my other stuf, once they get put away for the winter. (or summer, in the case of my snow blower).

[r carl]

Originally Posted by JBinKC

My 2000s are new this year. My dealer, who's sold and serviced hundreds of 2000s, said: 1.) use premium gas because it has less ethanol, 2.) start and run the paralleled gennies with Eco off because they "hunt" otherwise, and 3.) start and run them with a load once a month to keep them starting like new. .

Here in my area 87 octane unleaded has no ethanol, 89 octane unleaded has 10% ethanol, and premium has no ethanol.

[Mikethefixit]

I would read the owners manual in regard to Ethanol fuels. I do alot of carbs,mostly on lawnmowers. I just did one that the fuel was so yellow it would not run on it. I highly recommond STABIL. I also recommend to all my customers,that they use STABIL in thier fuel source. THAT is if ya buy 5 gallons at a time,TREAT IT WITH 2 0z of Stabil.My HONDA pair were new in JULY so the dont have much time on them.I also have the extented run fuel tank (6gallon) all have STABIL in them.
I personally stay away from Ethanol fuels. There are additives, and I think STABIL has a verison, that you can add to fuel to counter act the effects of Ethanol on the interal rubber and plastic parts in carburators.

[dznf0g]

I read, on another forum, a debate on whether to use the regular red stabil or the marine formulation. As usual, both side had good arguments, but since the marine formulation specifically addresses the unique ethanol situation in boat motors, I am tempted to change to it.

In IL, all fuels "may contain 10% ethanol", per most pump labels.

[dznf0g]

Duh, check out this video re. how to run the gas out of the carb for storage. I should've thought of this as I was just looking at the wiring diagrams last night!

Honda EU2000i Generator Carburetor Gum-up prevention - YouTube

[Phoenix]

Dznf0g,

We always ran the carburetor dry in the outboard on our boat; but that was easy -- just disconnect the fuel line from the remote tank. I have been hunting for hardware to insert a shutoff in the fuel line on our Hondas, and this is a much easier fix.

Great job surfing the Internet, and thanks for sharing!

=========================

An after-thought: I suspect that Honda has the generator shut down immediately for safety reasons. Assuming one is attempting to stop the generator because someone is being electrocuted, your RV is shorting out and has an electrical fire, someone's hair or clothing has somehow gotten entangled in the generator's moving parts, or the Honda itself is on fire -- any persons that may use the generator should be told that this wire has been disconnected, so they will know to pull the AC power plug(s).

Also, I am now looking for a kill-switch to wire inline with that connector, so that the ignition can be shut down separately.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Phoenix

Dznf0g,

We always ran the carburetor dry in the outboard on our boat; but that was easy -- just disconnect the fuel line from the remote tank. I have been hunting for hardware to insert a shutoff in the fuel line on our Hondas, and this is a much easier fix.

Great job surfing the Internet, and thanks for sharing!

=========================

An after-thought: I suspect that Honda has the generator shut down immediately for safety reasons. Assuming one is attempting to stop the generator because someone is being electrocuted, your RV is shorting out and has an electrical fire, someone's hair or clothing has somehow gotten entangled in the generator's moving parts, or the Honda itself is on fire -- any persons that may use the generator should be told that this wire has been disconnected, so they will know to pull the AC power plug(s).

Also, I am now looking for a kill-switch to wire inline with that connector, so that the ignition can be shut down separately.

I think the idea is to just disconnect it while running the carb dry, then plug it back in for normal use for your next trip.

It would be easy enough to add a switch inline. Get a OEM male and female connector and run it to the outside of the case.

I will only unplug and run the carb dry when not using for more than 30 days, so pulling the cover and disconnecting the connector, running gas out, and reconnecting is fine for me.

[dznf0g]

BTW, I tried this today and it works fine, but there is still about 1 ml of fuel left in the bowl. I still believe the drain should be opened. However, instead of getting out a pan and then trying to figure out what to do with several ounces of gas, this small amount can just be absorbed int a paper towel and you're done.

Also with this method, you pretty much purge the line from the cutoff switch through the pump and the fuel line to the carb.

[TBRich]

Cool. Always nice to find out something new about the care and feeding of the generators. If I am going to store for more than 30 days I siphon the gas out of the gas tank as best I can (but it's never 100% empty doing this), then start the generator up until it runs out of gas...it usually takes a couple of minutes... that way I know both the gas tank and the carburetor are completely empty.