Honda EU2200i

[pteck]

Originally Posted by Ronyx

honda’s power equipment website lists output specifications as follows: Maximum output 2200 watts, continuous output 1800 watts

Yes, Honda publishes ratings, which are conservative. Very conservative. It wouldn't be the first time that a manufacturer does this. Just as there there are manufacturers that boast figures their products have no chance of performing to.

Honda's have been around a long time and their performance are well quantified and durability legendary. That I was able to sell my 10 yr old eu2000 for $700, much much more than one could purchase a new disposable genny should speak volumes.

I'd encourage you to lookup old test on these very boards from Micro-Air (Matteo).

Here's a load test on youtube showing an eu2200 holding 120V to 2400W. Well above it's rating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6pYh6d6Yrs

Now compare the same test for a 2000W class Champion and it falters before its full rating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IswGAQt60s8

Here's some more data to help understand some more details:
Honda EU2200i - 121cc (commercial duty GXR120 engine)
Honda EU2000i - 98.5cc
Westinghouse iGen2500 - 98cc
Yamaha ef2000is - 79cc
Champion 2000W 100565 - 80cc

This shouldn't be that much a surprise considering a 2000W Champion can be had for 1/3 the price of the Honda. Or a 3100W Champion for 90% the cost of a 2200W Honda if you don't mind the weight/size and one wants a little more headroom.

The Honda was my vote as I wanted a 2000W class and size genny to run the A/C. The eu2200 is practically the only one on the market capable of this.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

My only point in mentioning the ratings as far as the video was concerned was that the video did not *demonstrate* that the generator did ok longer term. If you are going to prove that something works, you need to fully show it does so. Indeed if I pull up and it's hot (or cold and in heat pump mode), the A/C will run for a couple hours. It is a "real world" sort of thing.

Does this or that A/C unit pull this or that current steady state? Well, that depends on a few things. Not all 15K BTU units are created equal. Not all conditions are the same. I see 16A on mine in some cases, others may see something different. Apparently there are 15K BTU units out there that pull < 12A. If you are doing a video, a clamp amp meter with a low current range might be a nice thing to have handy ....

Bob

[pteck]

Bob, it's a reasonable point. Yet I hope you can understand that there's objective information here already that speaks to the contrary. The proof is in the pudding:

I am running my setup, Honda eu2200i on gas, at 6k altitude and heat for extended durations on arguably the highest performance 15k Dometic Blizzard NXT A/C (w/ easystart) with great success.

I've done my due diligence and research. To add:
1) You just saw a video that shows surge well above the Honda 2200W Max rating. All the way to 2400W (20amps). 2000W (16amps) is child's play for this generator. As a matter of fact, the previous eu2000 has demonstrably been able to perform to the level necessary to support a large A/C as well, albeit with less margin for taxing scenarios.
2) I run a 15k Blizzard NXT A/C. It's the highest draw unit in Dometic's lineup at 16.1 running amps (add compressor and fan rated amps):

3) Running my setup at altitude and heat, the eu2200i genny is not running at full RPM so it continues to have reserve for surge and running watts, and/or more taxing situations.
4) There are examples on youtube demonstrating an eu2200i running 13.5k A/Cs without easystart.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Again, just to be clear, the video referenced earlier (which my comment was directed to) did not *show* long term function at higher than rated loads. That's not to say the generator will not run in this fashion, only that the video did not demonstrate it.

Bob

[pteck]

It's a good story Bob, all the colorful commentary. At this point, you're simply casting fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD). The information and facts are there if you care to listen.

I have nothing against other generators. If they suit your needs better, be my guest. Your commentary would be like Honda owners suggesting that anything else will fall apart with the test of time.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by pteck

It's a good story Bob, all the colorful commentary. At this point, you're simply casting fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD). The information and facts are there if you care to listen.

I have nothing against other generators. If they suit your needs better, be my guest. Your commentary would be like Honda owners suggesting that anything else will fall apart with the test of time.

Hi

No, it's simply a comment on yet another YouTube video that does not really "prove" much of anything. There are *tons* of similar videos being referenced as demonstrating this or that. They are reviews of a wide range of products and not just Honda generators. The gotcha with the a whole lot of them is that the really don't do the full job. If people are going to cite them as "proof" then an analysis of the level to which they go is in order.

Again, not a knock on the generator, but a knock on the video. I *have* a nice red Honda siting out in the garage. It's a 3000 rather than a 2200, but it is a Honda. Fine generator.

Bob

[pteck]

Bob, the video is a single data point. Yes, it does not paint the whole picture. It would be useful to step back and assess that piece of information, with the other data offered here. Real data and success stories, not just colorful commentary. There's nuggets if again, you'd like to actually understand the whole performance envelop of the eu2200i, which I don't believe is your agenda.

What that single video does prove is the significant headroom within the Honda design. It's showing surge to 2480watts. You've suggested earlier that the max surge is 2200watts

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi
The generator is rated for a 2200W "surge" (thus the 2200 in the name). On a continuous basis it is only rated for 1800W.

Which is absolutely debunked by that data point.

Moreover, your statement that it's "only" capable of 1800 running watts is debunked again. I've run my 15k A/C which has a demand of 16.1 running amps (1932W) successfully for hours on end over multiple days. At 6k feet elevation. With it running at less that full rpm. Suggesting that the design again has further headroom.

I've done my own tests at home with loads for extended periods. No video, but it was to satisfy my interest which I'm sharing. It will hold 2200w and more without issue. Just as the previous eu2000 has famously been able to hold 2000w indefinitely running A/Cs. I personally found it too marginal for my large A/C unit, which is why I upgraded. I'm fully satisfied with the eu2200i now.

There's plenty more data points on these boards by others if again, you're actually looking for information.

[A.S. Beauty]

I'm having an issue with my 2200. When it's running and plugged into the 30amp, I don't see any changes on my battery monitor. The generator works... I use it to power other things. The red light is on my power cord, showing it's connected to power. Batter is is in "use" mode, not disconnected. No circuits have been tripped. What am I missing? I should be able to read a change in battery V/A/W, right?!

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by A.S. Beauty

I'm having an issue with my 2200. When it's running and plugged into the 30amp, I don't see any changes on my battery monitor. The generator works... I use it to power other things. The red light is on my power cord, showing it's connected to power. Batter is is in "use" mode, not disconnected. No circuits have been tripped. What am I missing? I should be able to read a change in battery V/A/W, right?!

Let's confirm what's going on. At any given time with generator off, what is voltage, amp draw and watt draw of battery according to the meter? Then fire up generator...all numbers are the same? What actual numbers are you seeing? With generator off (assuming no solar?) batteries (assuming good old standard flooded batteries) should be around 12.7 or 12.8 volts if fully charged. Less than that if not fully charged. Amps should read minus whatever...assuming you have some loads on, like a few lights, a fan, whatever. At that point if you fire up the generator, voltage should immediately jump to 13.2 or more, and amp draw should become positive.


Run this test and tell us what numbers you are seeing before and after.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by pcskier

. . .
Run this test and tell us what numbers you are seeing before and after.

Also maybe plug a simple 120-volt appliance/device into an outlet [not an inverter outlet] and see if it works. A drill, hair dryer, coffee grinder, television etc..

Peter

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Also maybe plug a simple 120-volt appliance/device into an outlet [not an inverter outlet] and see if it works. A drill, hair dryer, coffee grinder, television etc..

Peter

Good Idea. Do this to ensure that the generator is powering the 120v outlets/appliances. And the test I suggested. This can help narrow things down and determine if it's a battery charger issue, or something more than that.

[A.S. Beauty]

Thanks. I have a lot of solar and 4 lithium batteries, but boondock mostly and need an occasional boost for the batteries when they start to run low. I have a VitronConnect battery monitor (currently reading 87% state of charge, 12.75 bolts, -1.2 amps (it’s nighttime/no sun), 17 watts).

When I run my Honda 2200i generator, plugged into the 30 amp, these numbers do not change at all. My appliances are still working at the moment on my battery power. But I should see the needle move, right? I do instantly when I plug in my phone or a fan kicks on or if I plug in my solar briefcase.

I can’t figure out what’s up since everything appears to be operational.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by A.S. Beauty

. . .
I can’t figure out what’s up since everything appears to be operational.

Have you tried the suggestion in Post #70?

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Also maybe plug a simple 120-volt appliance/device into an outlet [not an inverter outlet] and see if it works. A drill, hair dryer, coffee grinder, television etc..

Peter

Originally Posted by pcskier

Good Idea. Do this to ensure that the generator is powering the 120v outlets/appliances. And the test I suggested. This can help narrow things down and determine if it's a battery charger issue, or something more than that.

Your lithium/solar setup is above my pay grade, but knowing whether any 120-volt juice is reaching the duplex outlets will help IMO. Yes, I think "the needle should move" when you connect the 2200 gen, but I will let those with more knowledge chime in.

Is your lithium/solar system a DIY project, or did a pro install it, and if so what is their feedback?

Peter

PS -- Other threads in which you participated FWIW:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f382...in-199752.html
Post #499: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...ml#post2282841
Post #504: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...ml#post2283091

Have you done all the things suggested by Airstream in this last link above, by plugging into your TV and starting the vehicle [to let your lithium battery system BMS re-boot etc.]?

I would also turn off any 12-volt circuit breakers for any of the above, and turn them back on, in order to let every device re-boot.

Are there any in-line fuses which might have blown?

FWIW

[Too tall]

Originally Posted by A.S. Beauty

I'm having an issue with my 2200. When it's running and plugged into the 30amp, I don't see any changes on my battery monitor. The generator works... I use it to power other things. The red light is on my power cord, showing it's connected to power. Batter is is in "use" mode, not disconnected. No circuits have been tripped. What am I missing? I should be able to read a change in battery V/A/W, right?!

Are you also plugged into shore power eg two power cords one into the 30amp (side of trailer) and other into the generator 30 amp (end of trailer)?


If the transfer switch is faulty that could 'splain it.

[OTRA15]

Does a 2019 23FB have two such connection points and a transfer switch?

[A.S. Beauty]

No, just generator power.

[A.S. Beauty]

My Zamp solar was installed by Airstream, as were the batteries. Thanks! I’ll research all this and do testing today.

PS, if a fuse is blown, there’s usually an indicator, right? A light or it pops out or something?

[A.S. Beauty]

I will test this today. Thank you!

[A.S. Beauty]

And thanks for the past threads I’ve posted on. I’ve resolved those issues and learned a ton since then, but apparently the learning never ends...

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by A.S. Beauty

. . .
PS, if a fuse is blown, there’s usually an indicator, right? A light or it pops out or something?

Not with small in-line glass [etc.] fuses that can be lurking in remote places. For instance our fridge fan has just such a fuse inside the cabinet, behind the switch. Not sure if our owner's manual mentions it. Look at all your wiring near the batteries, solar controller, and converter/charger. It should be fairly obvious IMO, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-5x20m...8583843&sr=8-2

There are other holders for spade-type fuses.

Thanks for all the details, and good luck with your research today.

Peter