Factory solar plus portable

[jlandreth]

Am I correct in assuming that if I'm camping in a shady area where my factory solar is not producing, I can plug a portable zamp unit in at the battery and it's controller will take over from the factory controller?

[GMFL]

Yep, that is the way they have it set up.

[jlandreth]

Great, thanks for the affirmation. Now to decide how much portable to get.

[GMFL]

Around 200 watts should work out great.
https://www.zampsolar.com/180watt-portable

[jlandreth]

Thanks, it's only 40 watts less than the factory system. The factory system, this portable system and my small generator should do all I need.

[turk123]

I added three 100 watt panels with a renology MTTP controller. It will cost the same as your two-panel system as there is a 30% tax credit from the federal government if your state recognizes the trailer as a second home.

I also built a water proof enclosure with two small fans.

[Pongo]

Originally Posted by jlandreth

Am I correct in assuming that if I'm camping in a shady area where my factory solar is not producing, I can plug a portable zamp unit in at the battery and it's controller will take over from the factory controller?

We have configured our rig for the concern you've expressed. That said, we found that the Zamp connector plug on the A Frame will not work in connection with the 200W factory roof mounted solar. Although it would make sense that roof mount and portable solar would work together when making use of the A Frame Zamp plug, this has been confirmed as being not possible without rewiring.The Jackson Center Service Center confirmed that a portable Zamp unit's controller will sense the roof top controller and they will both shut down.

In order to resolve this issue, the techs ran a connector for the portable unit through the refrigerator vent, up to the 3 plug solar connector on the roof. We then plug the portable unit into this new connector, but also disconnect the portable unit's controller. This is quite easy, i.e. by pulling a plug on the portable unit. In this manner, the roof-top controller (mounted in the front outside storage area in our 2017 International 27FB) takes over all 4 of our 80W panels.

In order to make movement of the portable 160W portable unit, I purchased an extender cable due to the fact that when disconnecting the portable unit's controller, you also bypass use of the standard cable.

[Lab lover]

Hmmm. Doesn't have to be that way.
We had our solar system done at AM Solar in Eugene, Oregon. 4x100 watt panels on the roof and a 160w Zamp portable. SunRunner controller. The panels can all work together or independently. If our roof is in the shade, our portable can be set up in sun and will charge the AGM batteries just fine. The primary limitation is tall trees, cloudy days, and seasonal low sun angles-all challenges in the Northwest.

Keep in mind portable panels are bulky and heavy....

[uncle_bob]

Hi

On a practical basis / most of the time - it's going to be one or the other that is supplying the power. If you have 300W on the roof and 300W portable, your net will not be 600W. You can get around this with networked solar converters. They are quite expensive ....

Bob

[jlandreth]

Originally Posted by Pongo

We have configured our rig for the concern you've expressed. That said, we found that the Zamp connector plug on the A Frame will not work in connection with the 200W factory roof mounted solar. Although it would make sense that roof mount and portable solar would work together when making use of the A Frame Zamp plug, this has been confirmed as being not possible without rewiring.The Jackson Center Service Center confirmed that a portable Zamp unit's controller will sense the roof top controller and they will both shut down.

In order to resolve this issue, the techs ran a connector for the portable unit through the refrigerator vent, up to the 3 plug solar connector on the roof. We then plug the portable unit into this new connector, but also disconnect the portable unit's controller. This is quite easy, i.e. by pulling a plug on the portable unit. In this manner, the roof-top controller (mounted in the front outside storage area in our 2017 International 27FB) takes over all 4 of our 80W panels.

In order to make movement of the portable 160W portable unit, I purchased an extender cable due to the fact that when disconnecting the portable unit's controller, you also bypass use of the standard cable.

So if the roof top panels aren't getting any sun to charge the batteries and I plug in a prattle set that I can place in the sun then neither controller will work? If that's the case, is there a way to shut down the factory system to be able to use a portable set?

[Ridge1960]

I just purchased a Goal Zero Yeti 1400 portable power station with the add-on MPPT module and the Goal Zero Boulder 200 (200W solar panels). How do I use any of this equipment to charge my battery on my 2016 Int’l Signature?

[JMynes]

Originally Posted by Pongo

In order to resolve this issue, the techs ran a connector for the portable unit through the refrigerator vent, up to the 3 plug solar connector on the roof. We then plug the portable unit into this new connector, but also disconnect the portable unit's controller. This is quite easy, i.e. by pulling a plug on the portable unit. In this manner, the roof-top controller (mounted in the front outside storage area in our 2017 International 27FB) takes over all 4 of our 80W panels.

Wow. Seems to me it would have been easier to rewire the A-Frame connector to the panel side of the controller. Plug your portable panel (without a built-in controller) into the A-Frame and all panels work together seamlessly.

[WestieHouse]

Interesting discussion. After considering whether to invest in an add-on roof solar system (my 2015 23 FB is supposedly prewired for it, but I understand it is not the ideal setup), I purchased 160 watt Zamp portable unit. Though bulky and at 37lbs adds to my limited payload, I saved lots of money and gained flexibilty regarding shaded camps, etc. It works fine for recharging my two Group 24 AGM batteries within a few hours on good days, even here in the PNW. But the problem was how to break camp after a night of boondocking and still have recharged batteries at our next camp later that day?

My plan is to fasten my Zamp panels on the flat roof top ski rack (no gear accessories) using two 1 inch nylon straps (each placed diagonally corner to corner). I will run the power cord down the back of my tv and make the usual battery connection. Slack cord will be stored under cover in my LPG tank area. I will cushion the panels with foam used for carrying boats on the rack. The Controller will be visible through my moonroof and hang above the glass.

Everything measures up well and I plan to do this for the first time during a trip from Orange County to Death Valley and Lake Havasu in February.

Has anyone attempted this approach? Any thoughts concerning this approach? As with any roof top rack items (we have extensive experience transporting bicycles, skis, kayaks, and a box) secure and balanced fastening is critical. Other thoughts are welcome - I prefer learning from your mistakes, if there were any!

I appreciate the wisdom of folks on this forum!

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by jlandreth

So if the roof top panels aren't getting any sun to charge the batteries and I plug in a prattle set that I can place in the sun then neither controller will work? If that's the case, is there a way to shut down the factory system to be able to use a portable set?

Hi

If you have 300 on the roof and 300 portable, you will get 300 as a result, not 600. You either get 300 from the roof *or* 300 from the portable. Which one you get the power from is a very random thing.

In the exact case you mention where the roof is completely in shade and doing absolutely nothing at all, the portable in full sun will be where the power comes from.

Bob

[link2dks]

Bob

I’m a bit confused. Are you saying that the fix Pongo said the “techs” did by running a wire to the roof top Zamp connector for his portable panned would not add to the output of the roof mounted panels? That’s assuming the controller on the portable panel was disconnected.

[glcmranger]

Not sure if I agree with Uncle Bob. I have ZAMP panels on roof which is routed to the inside 30amp charge controller. This controller sends charge and reads battery. I also plug in a ZAMP portable (separate Controller on the back of the panel) into the port on the battery box -- which is directly wired to the battery. My thought is that the battery will charge based on each separate controller reading battery level. I have tested this approach and it works....

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by glcmranger

Not sure if I agree with Uncle Bob. I have ZAMP panels on roof which is routed to the inside 30amp charge controller. This controller sends charge and reads battery. I also plug in a ZAMP portable (separate Controller on the back of the panel) into the port on the battery box -- which is directly wired to the battery. My thought is that the battery will charge based on each separate controller reading battery level. I have tested this approach and it works....

The problem that may occur is that the first controller will put 13.7 volts to the batteries. The second controller will see this voltage and think the batteries are fully charged and stop current. Then the first controller will see the voltage the second controller is trying to supply to the batteries and think the batteries are fully charged and shut off ... endless loop.

[billrector]

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

The problem that may occur is that the first controller will put 13.7 volts to the batteries. The second controller will see this voltage and think the batteries are fully charged and stop current. Then the first controller will see the voltage the second controller is trying to supply to the batteries and think the batteries are fully charged and shut off ... endless loop.

This is a very confusing subject as threads here say it is a problem but Brian Boone, who is a solar installer and has at least one Facebook page, says that it is not and they are designed to work together. So, when I placed my order with AMSolar the other day, I specifically ask the question about a portable unit working in conjunction with a rooftop system....both having their own controller. Again, I was told they are designed to work together. My initial plan was to remove the controller from the portable unit and wire it into my Victron controller, but I have scrapped that plan.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

There are several completely different questions that get asked. The answers to them then get crossed up:

Question one: Will something bad happen if I have two controllers? Answer is no, nothing bad will happen. They will not catch fire. They will not self destruct. You will not end the world.

Question two: Will the two controllers work together? Sure they will. One will shut off and the other will do all the work Most of the time, the power will come from one or the other set of panels.

Question three: Will I get 300 + 300 = 600W of useful output from my portable + roof setup? Nope. One or the other will take over and the unlucky controller will shut down.

So when you walk in to the solar store and ask the sales guy - should I buy this thing you are trying to sell me? The answer will be yes. That's exactly what the sales guy is there to tell you. He's not lying to you, he's simply answering the first question on the list.

Is he selling you something that has no use? No, in the case the trailer is in deep shade and the portable is out in the bright sun, you will get power off of the portable. You will get 300W + 0 = 300W. That's better than zero.

Why doesn't he give you the full story and all the details of how it all works? If you are there to sell a gizmo, the right answer is a simple yes. Long involved and confusing stories ... not so much. The idea is to close the sale and move on.

Bob

[dreina]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Yep, that is the way they have it set up.

Will this work on class B Interstate too?