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Old 03-03-2016, 03:03 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mfrez View Post
So are we saying that in order to use an inverter generator we NEED to use this bonded plug, if we are plugging directly into the trailer? I've never heard of this before. I always just plug in without one.
What could happen? Not sure if I understand
See what happens to your GFCI circuits when you don't.

They probably won't be too happy with an unbounded power supply and won't be working properly. I've seen this situation quite often.
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:15 PM   #22
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So plugging in any generator via the 30amp receptacle requires a modified plug? Why would the manufacturers not already have it wire that way? Is there an after market product you can buy. I've never seen any RV run by a generator using bonded plugs and grounding to the ground. I don't plan to use my surge protector when I get a generator. Why would you need it. The generator won't have surges will it?

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Old 03-03-2016, 07:33 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
So plugging in any generator via the 30amp receptacle requires a modified plug? Why would the manufacturers not already have it wire that way? Is there an after market product you can buy. I've never seen any RV run by a generator using bonded plugs and grounding to the ground. I don't plan to use my surge protector when I get a generator. Why would you need it. The generator won't have surges will it?

Kelvin
One never knows…..do one?

Simply because many folks are not aware of the NEC requirements and don't use a neutral-to-ground bond in a free-standing generator doesn't mean that they don't exist or you should not follow them.

That's why I counsel all of my clients who run small portable generators to use the plug-in neutral-to-ground bonding method. Many won't go to the extent of adding a grounding rod for the generator frame, but your owner's manual WILL specify one if you read it. It's in there…………

Listen, this is really not a point of argument as it's YOUR TRAILER and you can DO WHAT YOU WANT! The requirements and codes are there for a reason. You are free to follow them or ignore them. NO ONE has to follow what I suggest as I'm simply making you aware of what those requirements are and as a certified professional, that I FOLLOW code when ever the situation is in question………..

Do a Google search on 'floating neutrals' and see exactly what can happen if your 120VAC system loses that neutral for any reason and the system is NOT BONDED.
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Old 03-03-2016, 07:39 PM   #24
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I think things would get pretty unconfortable inside the trailer if that happened.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:21 PM   #25
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I think things would get pretty unconfortable inside the trailer if that happened.
Not only uncomfortable…….but very….VERY EXPENSIVE in a hurry!!!!
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:29 AM   #26
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I completely understand bonding neutral to ground IF the generator is grounded (best with a ground rod). And I understand that tieing the neutral to ground will make your smart surge suppressor happy. Where I am confused is, if the generator is not well grounded (say sitting on a rubber mat on top of a picnic table) how bonding would make things safer. Or would it?
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:52 AM   #27
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So getting one of these

http://www.progressiveindustries.net...tor-plug/c1mwy

should solve our problems?

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Old 03-04-2016, 09:39 AM   #28
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This is copy & paste from the OSHA.gov website:
Bonding Versus Grounding
Bonding and grounding are separate requirements for generators and other electrical distribution systems. Grounding means the connection, or the establishment of a connection, of an electric circuit or equipment to reference ground, which includes the generator’s frame. Bonding is the intentional connection between the grounded circuit conductor (neutral) and the grounding means for the generator, which includes the generator’s frame. Thus, effective bonding of the neutral conductor to the generator’s frame is also a concern for the safe use of the equipment. As with grounding terminal connections, proper bonding of the neutral terminal of a power receptacle may be confirmed via testing by a competent electrician with the correct equipment, and the ohmic resistance should measure near zero and must not be intermittent, which indicates a loose connection.

This has been a very educational topic for me.

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Old 03-12-2016, 06:29 PM   #29
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Hi, totally confused here, we have a 2015 fb signature with 3-100 watt solar panels, wich takes care of some of the light stuff. We also have a silly micro wave, not my choice as I would have preferred having your standard gas stove. I purchased a new 3000e watt Honda, then was told I could not run my air conditioner, as it needs a 30 amp, and the 3000 watt generator would/could not be strong enough to do the job. I see here that people are using the 2000e generator to power the air con... what do I need to run the air con is what I'm asking, as the microwave will be chucked out soon and replaced
thanks
if you can shed some clear answers without amps or watt talk
cheers
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:11 PM   #30
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Hi, totally confused here, we have a 2015 fb signature with 3-100 watt solar panels, wich takes care of some of the light stuff. We also have a silly micro wave, not my choice as I would have preferred having your standard gas stove. I purchased a new 3000e watt Honda, then was told I could not run my air conditioner, as it needs a 30 amp, and the 3000 watt generator would/could not be strong enough to do the job. I see here that people are using the 2000e generator to power the air con... what do I need to run the air con is what I'm asking, as the microwave will be chucked out soon and replaced
thanks
if you can shed some clear answers without amps or watt talk
cheers
Wakefield
This is as simple as it gets, as it IS all about watts and amps!

You have been given some erroneous information. I have folks running a 13.5K roof A/C with a Yamaha 2400 watt unit. Even a 15K unit will not draw over 15-16 amps @120VAC and ambient temperatures of 90ºF (check the data plate on your A/C unit if you need verification).

There should be no issues with a 3000 watt Honda and your roof air. You also have a 20 amp breaker on your A/C circuit….NOT A 30 A breaker.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:25 PM   #31
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We have a Magnum MSH-3012 hybrid inverter in our 23D that can draw the additional power necessary to start the 13.5K BTU roof air conditioner from the 300 amp-hour lithium battery and then the Honda 2,000 watt generator can keep it running. This magic trick works if the batteries are close to fully charged as the Magnum will use the available AC power to charge the battery if the 500 watts of solar is not doing the job.
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:00 AM   #32
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Wakefield: Lewster has it right (as usual... thanks, Lewster for your many posts).

Let me add a couple of points. There is a key phrase in sizing generators for Airstreams or other RVs. It's "at the same time". Your 3000 watt Honda (sorry... I had to use 'watt' at least once) won't power everything in your trailer "at the same time". In my experience, even a 30 amp (oops... I did it again) shore power connection doesn't allow me to run everything onboard at the same time. As evidence, I occasionally trip a 30 amp breaker if I run AC, microwave, etc all at once.

However, your 3000 Honda should run the AC just fine provided you don't also run the microwave or other big loads which may even include your converter for battery charging.

How do you manage load you ask? The simple way is the mental manual method. For example, remember not to turn on the microwave while the AC is running on generator. The sure fire method is to use the breakers in your panel to actually disconnect loads you don't want to come on.

As for the solar capability you mentioned, it's a great tool to charge your batteries automagically from the sun, but the output of your three panels is only 10% of what your one generator can deliver. They are truly separate capabilities with the solar focused on keeping batteries topped off for the 12volt systems onboard while the generator can support the 120volt loads. There is a point of connection between these two systems. It's your inverter which can run light 120volt lads from your 12volt batteries for limited periods of time. The AC and microwave (and many portable appliances) are too much load for the typical inverter.

I hope that helps.
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:00 PM   #33
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The 3000 watt honda will be hard pressed to run the ac, especially on a hot day..best to use shore power for the ac......
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Old 03-13-2016, 03:09 PM   #34
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The 3000 watt honda will be hard pressed to run the ac, especially on a hot day..best to use shore power for the ac......

Are you speaking from experience or pure conjecture????

A 3000 watt generator has a 25 amp output with a higher available transient amperage level. ANY RV air conditioner is wired to a 20 amp circuit breaker using 12AWG cable......... which is more than sufficient to start and run ANY rooftop RV unit.






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Old 03-13-2016, 06:21 PM   #35
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We have a 2015 25FC, and use a single Honda 2000, even runs the air conditioning. Just remember to turn off battery charger and turn refer to gas. Otherwise the gen will attempt to run all these other loads and the AC and won't make it.
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:54 PM   #36
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I'm shocked. I've never heard of anyone running their AC off a 2,000 watt generator alone. Do you have the 13,500 or 15,000 BTU AC?
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:13 PM   #37
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I've never seen that either. Not challenging the poster, but I have seen some very large transient loads when the compressor starts. When I set up a lithium battery and a Magnum 3000 watt hybrid inverter, the roof A/C will show a transient of 150 -165 amps coming from the batteries on start-up in addition to a Honda or Yamaha 2000 running and the trailer connected to it.

The hybrid inverter will add whatever amperage is necessary for 'load support' to allow the load (in this case, the compressor) to start. That translates to an additional 14-15 amps that is provided by the Magnum, added to the 16.7 amp maximum capacity of the Honda for a total of approx. 32 starting amps.

After the compressor has started, the load support from the Magnum diminishes to zero and the Honda takes over the operation of the A/C. I have seen the generator go into overload fault if the Magnum is not in load support mode, which is the equivalent of running the A/C on a 2000 watt generator alone.

Just my unbiased observations.
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:08 AM   #38
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Are you speaking from experience or pure conjecture????

A 3000 watt generator has a 25 amp output with a higher available transient amperage level. ANY RV air conditioner is wired to a 20 amp circuit breaker using 12AWG cable......... which is more than sufficient to start and run ANY rooftop RV unit.






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What I was trying to say is I thought the 3000 watt honda was working pretty hard running the ac, with everything switched to propane , I would rather have a 4500watt as it might not be working as hard....
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Old 03-15-2016, 09:13 AM   #39
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The challenge with the larger Honda generators is the weighted keeps increasing with wattage output gets close to 300 pounds for the 7,500 watt unit. I can still slowly manhandle the 50 pounds of the 2,000 watt Hondas. Not interested in anything heavier.
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Old 03-16-2016, 02:54 AM   #40
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The challenge with the larger Honda generators is the weighted keeps increasing with wattage output gets close to 300 pounds for the 7,500 watt unit. I can still slowly manhandle the 50 pounds of the 2,000 watt Hondas. Not interested in anything heavier.
I know you are right !
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