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Old 04-17-2024, 06:40 PM   #1
New Member
1967 26' Overlander
Owings , MD
Join Date: Apr 2024
Posts: 2
Where to splice into rear clearance lights

Howdy all,

Happy to be here with my 2nd Airstream project. Had a great Tradewind 10 years ago and excited to have this 1967 Overlander for family trips.

Working my way through testing and cleaning up all of the interior and exterior wiring and am working on lights right now.

I have gained access to the panel on the curbside front underside and cleaned and gone through those wires. I am using an extra battery and portable fuse block to direct run power to different things to test, when powering the Green wires(running lights) my front and front side clearance lights all work but I have nothing at the rear.

All of the rear lights had been replaced in the 2000's (as in the fixtures replaced) and I was able to easily test all of them and none are getting power. Note this power I am testing for is via a direct connection to only the green running light wiring at the front underside access panel (also properly grounding the white connectors there).

Via the access panel the license plate is on I can probably easily enough fish a new feed wire to the main rear taillights but I don't have a good plan on getting to the upper clearance lights short of cutting in an access hole in the bathroom towards the ceiling.

If I cut an access panel square in the curb side belly pan towards the rear (and fabricate a cover of course for later) will I likely be able to access the running light wiring or will it still be inside the frame at that point?

I've searched the forums for hours and haven't stumbled on the right photo yet of how this wiring enters the interior walls and how it runs once there. Any help is greatly appreciated.
TreeWalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2024, 09:02 AM   #2

1968 20' Globetrotter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 670
Based on my 68GT, which is much the same front gaucho and rear bath as an Overlander. The rear light harness remains in the frame channel until it exits thru the plywood floor under the bath sink and then enters the rearmost interior shell skin alongside the rear access door's curbside jamb.

some images I found on Airforum have a half-ellipse cut-out where the wires go into the shell. My 68GT has that same cut-out.

If you need further access, what I did was chisel off the rivet heads and pry the panel back enough with a wood wedge to get my hand in there.

You should be able to drop enough of the blacktank belly-pan along the curbside to find the harness if needed, but if you have power to the license plate lamp, then none of this applies. Do brake and turn lights work?

You might also be able to unfasten the fiberglass rear interior end-cap alongside the window. Possibly get a peek in thru back-up light?

I glued a cotton string onto a ¾” puck magnet and made it from my antenna rotor to the floor then tied on my fish-wire and pulled that thru, then pulled two coax cables thru, so there might be a path somewhere. Three times so far I’ve used magnets and string to find pathways to pull wires. Might work for you…
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ALUMINUMINUM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2024, 07:37 PM   #3
New Member
1967 26' Overlander
Owings , MD
Join Date: Apr 2024
Posts: 2
Thanks very much for the reply, prior to seeing it I had cut a small access panel in the fiberglass inside the bath which let me run a hot lead from a test wire and give myself running lights in the rear.

I didn't have a cutout in my belly pan to access the harnes where it goes up into the shell wall, I guess my next step might be to cut a small access panel with the multitool there and test those wires.

I looked into your wedge method with the trunk but not sure i would have enough slack in those wires to be able to pull them out and test them. Hard to say how much excess is hanging there.

I can easily make a Corian cutoff piece (I'm a cabinetmaker) or some other trim to cover a hole in the fiberglass in the bath so another cutout there by the right side turn signal might be the play.
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