Replacing Marker lights & wiring

[dabhunter]

Question for replacing outside marking lights and connecting the wiring.

I hope someone has a better solution.

My problem is connecting the wires to the replacement lights.

The wire to the lights extends about an inch. I’ve tried pulling more wiring out but there is no slack to pull.

The wire from the trailer is too short to use a wire nut or an auto crimp connecter.
I' considered soldering the wires, shrink wrap the connection and stuffing the repaired wiring back into the trailer. Then use an insulating material to protect the wires from the aluminum skin.

There must be an easier and quicker solution.

Thanks in advance for help

[Keys Dave]

I'm getting ready to do the same thing. As I understand it the trick is to shove the wires back inside and out of the way a bit. Now using a step drill bit open up the existing hole to 3/8 inch or so. Now fish the wires back out. The larger hole will allow the butt connectors to come out and give you more wire to work with. As you reassemble the light try to put something on the hole to protect the wires. HD has snap in grommets in electrical depending on the hole size. There's several threads on the subject around.

[dabhunter]

Dave
Thanks for your reply. I agree with your recommendation.
I want make sure that once the wires are cut off, stuffed back
in and the hole is enlarged, I can still fish out the wires.

Next how to make the connections? Can't use wire nut but maybe
auto type Crimp connectors or solder & shrink wrap?
Bill

[dabhunter]

Dave
I like the recommendation to use heat shrink crimp connectors or
look at West Marine for the connectors.

[kb0zke]

Twist-on wire nuts aren't recommended because they can come loose, and then you have a bigger problem. I'd suggest a crimp-on butt connector with shrink wrap.

[Dingo Girl]

Yes to West Marine, don't buy the connectors from an auto parts store.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Dingo Girl

Yes to West Marine, don't buy the connectors from an auto parts store.

It's not really the type of store which determines the quality of the connectors, it's the brand of connectors they sell.

Most chain auto parts stores are selling low-cost imported connectors made from thin metal which has trouble holding a good crimp. The same low-end connectors can be found in marine stores marketed at the boating community. There they'll often be dressed up with a coating of tin, but if they're poorly made they'll still fail.

But stores like Kaestner Auto Electric sell brands like Pico which makes high quality and long-lasting connectors. They also sell OEM auto parts for electrical systems designed to be used in wet locations like exterior lighting.

In the SE Wisconsin area we are very lucky to have a store like Kaestner, and hopefully you have something similar by you where you can touch and feel the parts before you buy them. Sure beats buying unknown brands blind online.

[NO NOIZE]

Some info here:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ht-244926.html

[rodennison]

I’ve replaced 3 lights- so far- and I’m NOT pushing the heat shrinked butt connectors inside the wall. And it’s it’s a good thing because I forgot to crimp them. DOH!🤦🏼*♂️Because of the tough caulking they used on some of them, I can’t stuff ‘em in there, or the grommet is too small. Instead, and I’m not saying I recommend this- I’m carving out a space in foam “gasket” to lay the butt connectors in, and shortening up the wires from the light. If you think that’s unwise, I’d welcome your input.
But the other problem I’m having is that one or two of the original screws are not holding anymore and so I need to use a beefier screw.

[dabhunter]

Thanks to all the replies.

After looking at the alternatives I choose to solder and shrink wrap.
All the lights Front and rear.
All of the connections look good & work fine.
I left the wire connections long enough so was able to be pushed
back through the rubber gromet into the trailer.

Mounting the new lights I took extra care to seal the lens to the bases.
I found that most of the old lights had water leaking around the lens seal.

I feel I solved this with a liquid sealer on the screw head and
all around the lens to base. I tested each light with hard direct
water spray and only one required a second application
of the sealer.
I got it down to about 15 minutes per light

Lights are water "proof" and work fine.

Good luck

[rodennison]

What is this “liquid sealer” you speak of?