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Old 01-19-2008, 02:15 PM   #1
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Replace Marker / Clearance Lights On '87 Excella

I want to replace the marker / clearance lights on my '87 Excella because the bases are so deteriorated. I was wondering if anybody has any sources for relacements. The original lights are made by signal-stat they are double bulls-eys lenses with two wedge style bulbs. The numbers in the base are 1220/1211 and the number on the lenses are 9006. There is a red lead and a white lead that come out of the trailer body with male bullet connectors on the wires. The leads go through two holes in the light base. There are female bullet connectors on the base of the lights that the trailer leads plug into. The lights DO NOT ground to the trailer

I am having trouble locating replacements. All marker / clearance lights I find are single wire leads that ground to the trialer body.

I have attached a picture of the base and lens
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:23 PM   #2
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www.vehiclelight.com has the two wire connection LED bulleye clearance lamps you are looking for.
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:59 PM   #3
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Check out this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f447...hts-34414.html
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Old 01-19-2008, 03:34 PM   #4
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You can get them thru Airstream. They have the LED and originals. The only place I've found them that include a gasket.
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Old 01-19-2008, 08:02 PM   #5
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Check out this thread.

Mine didn't come with gaskets but I used a syringe with Trempro (vulkem) to seal them off.

$1.99 ea seemed fair to me. L.E.D.s will run a bit more.
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Old 01-19-2008, 08:08 PM   #6
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Hey Pizzachop, has #8 made dry dock yet?
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Old 01-19-2008, 08:51 PM   #7
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Firedog,

Take a look here and here .

We did decide on Charles for a middle name.
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:02 PM   #8
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Clearance light project

I replaced my old clearance lights with L.E.D's made by Grote - actually found something domestically made.
Here are a couple of photos.

This is a picture of the old light.







The second picture shows where I had to drill a small hole through the light body to thread the ground wire through to the front. LED's will have both a ground and power wire.




The third picture shows the hole in the lower right hand corner.



The fourth picture shows a the connector soldered onto the ground wire. This will be placed behind the mounting screw.



The fifth picture shows the power wire soldered together with heat shrink ready to go over the joint.



The last picture shows the finished product - just need to add the lense. I did put caulking on the rear of the light body and in the screw holes before the light was mounted. Let me tell you these are cool looking at night. My neighbors all remarked that my trailer in the driveway looked like a Christmas Tree with all the new lights.

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Old 01-19-2008, 09:05 PM   #9
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That type of marker lights are available at any Truck Stop. Last time I paid about $3.50, but with the inflation rate it might be over $5 now.
Personally I don't like the look of LED lights. They make sense technically, but are ugly like hybrids.
Even my trailer come originally equipped with the same type lights the original poster has - I just bought those on ebay.
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Old 01-20-2008, 06:45 AM   #10
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Replace Marker / Clearance Lights On '87 Excella

Thanks for all the replies. I have attached some more pictures of what the wiring looks like coming out of the trailer and how the wiring mounts onto the light. My problem is that the replies all seem to have trailer lights that ground through one of the mounting screws. Mine DO NOT ground through the mounting screws. And there lies the dilemma. All replacements I have found so far ground through the mounting screws. I am hesitant to purchase an LED light too because I think I will be in the same boat. Does anybody know how my wiring set up works? Is the red wire a hot lead? Is the white wire a common lead? If I canít find a replacement for these darn lights, I am going to be up the proverbial creek.
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:41 AM   #11
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The last lights I got like that, I got from Wal-Mart for $1.97 each. The new ones don't need the ground wire, they will ground through one of the mounting screws. Just make sure you use fresh screws.
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Old 01-20-2008, 09:38 AM   #12
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Add a ground wire?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DEITZ645
The lights DO NOT ground to the trailer

I am having trouble locating replacements. All marker / clearance lights I find are single wire leads that ground to the trialer body.
Can you add a ground wire and isolate the ground from the trailer?

You could also try SUPER BRIGHT LEDS home I replaced all my running ligths with LEDs
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:16 PM   #13
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Wow, those are different!

Not a big deal though, just cut off the bullet end on the ground wire and crimp an "eye" to it. Then you can pass the screw or rivet (however you choose to attach the base) through it. It'll have two grounds (the wire and the aluminum skin)

If you're not too concerned, just skip the ground wire altogether and trust that the shell will provide the grounding.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:20 PM   #14
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Carl,
The led unit I mentioned before and have pictured below is from Led Truck Lights, Led stop lights, Led clearance lights, led Marker lights, Led trailer lights, truck lights, led strobe lights. You are making this much harder than it really is. All you have to do is crimp on one of those female end connectors to each wire of the light, plug them into the male connector you have in your picture, make sure the wires are not hanging out from the flange at the edge of the light and screw the light back on. I promise you it is that easy. The female connector I used had a plastic cover around it and this keeps the wire from grounding to the aluminum. You could also use shrink insulation as shown by a previous poster. You then run a bead of Trempro, Sikaflex or Vulcum over the top edgeto prevent water from getting behind the light and through the hole in the trailer where the wires enter. Trust me, it was so much easier than the work I had to do with the LEDs-R-US lights.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:36 PM   #15
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Shot of those LEDs taken at dusk, slightly blurred.
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:06 PM   #16
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Crispyboy--nice job on the soldering&crimping! Looks good!

I used the 16-LED from vehiclelights.com and they also use two wires, so I had to create a similar ground. I used some lithium grease between the grommet and the shell of the A/s to ward off corrosion. It's a good idea to seal everything up as tight as possible. Another post had pics of a newer A/s and nice neat holes w/grommets--OTOH, my holes looked like they had been punched out with the blunt end of a phillips screwdriver!

DavidZ71--your lights look very good!
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Old 01-21-2008, 08:07 AM   #17
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Dietz645,
Do you have a multimeter? This is a great tool to own for house/vehicle/trailer projects.
If you do own one - test for voltage at red wire (power), test for continuity on the white wire (ground).
You probably have the setup as suggested - red wire is power and white wire is the ground.
The LED lights will have two wire - power and ground. The incandescant lights will probably be one wire - power and grounded through the screw.
You could use either -
If using a one wire light do as a previous poster said and put an eyelet connector on ground and put between the light and shell. Use dielectric grease one the connection between the shell and ground. Use sealer around the top of the light.
Good Luck.
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:14 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidz71
Carl,
The led unit I mentioned before and have pictured below is from Led Truck Lights, Led stop lights, Led clearance lights, led Marker lights, Led trailer lights, truck lights, led strobe lights. You are making this much harder than it really is. All you have to do is crimp on one of those female end connectors to each wire of the light, plug them into the male connector you have in your picture, make sure the wires are not hanging out from the flange at the edge of the light and screw the light back on. I promise you it is that easy. The female connector I used had a plastic cover around it and this keeps the wire from grounding to the aluminum. You could also use shrink insulation as shown by a previous poster. You then run a bead of Trempro, Sikaflex or Vulcum over the top edgeto prevent water from getting behind the light and through the hole in the trailer where the wires enter. Trust me, it was so much easier than the work I had to do with the LEDs-R-US lights.
I do want to clarify that the high count LED bullseye clearance lights are the two wire models from this company. They are about a buck higher than the one wire led models from that place. They are worth it though.
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Old 01-21-2008, 05:24 PM   #19
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Problem Solved - Thanks

Thank you for all your helpful replies. I was making it much harder than it had to be, as pointed out by some of the posts. Today after running to Wal-Mart, I spent a small fortune in replacement and spare mini-fuses for the truck fuse block, and I finally got the lights to work. I put shrink wrap around the white ground lead terminal as I am hesitant to just cut the wire. There isn't that much sticking out from the trailer and I don't want to cut it short if I ever need that wire. I connected the red lead from the trailer to the black lead from the light and mounted the light to the trailer which provided the ground. When I turned on the truck lights the new marker light came on and didn't blow a fuse in the truck. It is bitter cold here in south east PA so the rest of the lights will have to wait until old man winter releases us.

We bought the trailer in Ohio as a second trailer to use on a permanent site at Penn Wood Airstream Park in Clarion, PA. Now I have to finish installing the laminate wood floor. After that it is off to P&S for an exterior make-over in mid-April. Then from P&S it goes directly to Penn Wood for the opening rally in early May. By the time we are finished with it, it should be better than new. I will post pictures as the floor progresses and finsihed product after it comes back from P&S.
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