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Old 01-20-2008, 08:56 AM   #21
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1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,239
To make a long electrical story short (pun intended), you should only have to hook up the power feed wire to the new lights. If everything else is kosher, the light should light with the ground going through the mounting screws.
remember K.I.S.S., and don't run more wires than you need.
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Old 01-21-2008, 05:27 PM   #22
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2006 30' Classic S/O
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Mohrsville , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Problem Solved - Thanks

Thank you for all your helpful replies. I was making it much harder than it had to be, as pointed out by some of the posts. Today after running to Wal-Mart, I spent a small fortune in replacement and spare mini-fuses for the truck fuse block, and I finally got the lights to work. I put shrink wrap around the white ground lead terminal as I am hesitant to just cut the wire. There isn't that much sticking out from the trailer and I don't want to cut it short if I ever need that wire. I connected the red lead from the trailer to the black lead from the light and mounted the light to the trailer which provided the ground. When I turned on the truck lights the new marker light came on and didn't blow a fuse in the truck. It is bitter cold here in south east PA so the rest of the lights will have to wait until old man winter releases us.

We bought the trailer in Ohio as a second trailer to use on a permanent site at Penn Wood Airstream Park in Clarion, PA. Now I have to finish installing the laminate wood floor. After that it is off to P&S for an exterior make-over in mid-April. Then from P&S it goes directly to Penn Wood for the opening rally in early May. By the time we are finished with it, it should be better than new. I will post pictures as the floor progresses and finsihed product after it comes back from P&S.
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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