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11-27-2013, 08:01 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
2014 30' FB FC Bunk
Hoover
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,530
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I asked this before, but what is that grey sealant above the awning rail...I want to patch a gap I see there soon.
__________________
“The atoms of our bodies are traceable to stars that manufactured them...We are not figuratively, but literally stardust.”
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11-27-2013, 08:09 AM
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#22
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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This is a good choice....
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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11-27-2013, 08:16 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek
I asked this before, but what is that gray sealant above the awning rail...I want to patch a gap I see there soon.
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Perry told you above: "" Parbond is for thin cracks and Trempro-635 is for fat cracks ""
Also Acryl R , and it is the thinnest. So I bet it's probably the Trempro above the awning. You can order a caulk kit from JC that has the Acryl R and Trempro plus a couple others for use on the trailers " different colors for different areas." Order ParBond elsewhere.
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11-27-2013, 08:28 AM
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#24
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Spokane
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,848
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FWIW, our dealer says to use Sika-Flex. I have used it to redo the seams, it is gray and is holding up well. Above my awning, where it attaches to the trailer, they used a white compound. It is now getting rather old and my plan is to clean it off and reapply new stuff this summer. I was told to use the same stuff.
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11-27-2013, 09:46 AM
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#25
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2020 Classic 33
Box Elder
, South Dakota
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,731
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Why not send a question to the factory? Or your dealer?
__________________
Gary
2020 Classic 33 Twin, 2019 Ram 3500 Longhorn, ProPride
NØVPN
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11-27-2013, 04:29 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood
, Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12,111
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Get Jackson Center on the horn. They are very helpful.
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
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11-27-2013, 05:20 PM
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#27
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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The clearance lights I bought off of ebay have the LED's potted in epoxy so no moisture can get to the electrical connections. Moisture does get under the lens though but I don't worry about it. I have not seen many lights that don't leak unless the lens is glued to the base.
Perry
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11-27-2013, 07:07 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood
, Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12,111
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That is comforting- all of mine on the curb side have moisture under the lenses. I don't think water/moisture can enter the trailer this way, either- at least that's what Jim at Foley led me to believe.
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
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11-27-2013, 07:56 PM
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#29
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony
That is comforting- all of mine on the curb side have moisture under the lenses. I don't think water/moisture can enter the trailer this way, either- at least that's what Jim at Foley led me to believe.
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M.hony, you have a 2013 Classic trailer, correct. If you do, your lights should have the cast piece under the lens base and be caulked and sealed. Am I correct? And you still have lights with condensation in them?
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11-27-2013, 08:12 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood
, Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12,111
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Yep- that cast piece looks like something extra or in addition to the normal bezel- maybe a Classic only thing. I think the moisture is getting in between Does lens and the base.
In phone conversations with the service center at JC I was told they would just replace the lights.
I will attempt to photograph the lights with moisture in them tomorrow when it is daylight.
I wonder sometimes if it is really nothing to worry about. I sometimes see automobile light lenses with moisture inside.
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
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11-27-2013, 08:15 PM
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#31
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Rivet Master
2014 30' FB FC Bunk
Hoover
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,530
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i think the classic bases look better and are a better long term fixture for the AS...
as long as my current setup does not collect and pool water I will be pleased...if it does, then JC likely will replace (based on what others said)....if that does not fix the ?issue? then at least ill have the nifty new fixtures....
It seems easier in theory to seal up the classic fixtures and leave an opening in bottom...looking at these gaskets I am skeptical
__________________
“The atoms of our bodies are traceable to stars that manufactured them...We are not figuratively, but literally stardust.”
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11-27-2013, 08:40 PM
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#32
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony
Yep- that cast piece looks like something extra or in addition to the normal bezel- maybe a Classic only thing. I think the moisture is getting in between Does lens and the base. In phone conversations with the service center at JC I was told they would just replace the lights. I will attempt to photograph the lights with moisture in them tomorrow when it is daylight. I wonder sometimes if it is really nothing to worry about. I sometimes see automobile light lenses with moisture inside.
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Thanks. I asked because the installation on the cast base that is on all classic trailers is the fix for the corrosion causing, condensation gathering lights on the 2011 and 2012 FC and Int trailers. That base and a complete caulking of all three parts with Acryl R is what fixes both problems. I thought your Classic trailer's lights would have been completely sealed with caulk also and as such, should have not collected water inside. When you take the photos, will you look carefully to see if the lights are caulked well or if you can see a pin hole or two that might let in condensation.
I had that "Classic base" fix done to my 30 FC and have had no Filiform or condensation issues since. The real secret is however, a perfect caulking job of lens and bases.
"" wonder sometimes if it is really nothing to worry about"". See post above, LED lights will die eventually if wet.
I like the E Bay lights with the epoxy base. That's the best answer.
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11-27-2013, 09:49 PM
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#33
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Rivet Master
2014 30' FB FC Bunk
Hoover
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,530
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Good to hear yours are not getting wet inside - ill be interested to hear back from m.hony if there are holes - have to be to accumulate that much water pooling in the lenses
__________________
“The atoms of our bodies are traceable to stars that manufactured them...We are not figuratively, but literally stardust.”
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11-28-2013, 09:26 AM
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#34
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Rivet Master
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood
, Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12,111
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I'm beginning to think it is maybe just a little harmless condensation caused by temperature differential- the inside and outside cool/warm at different rates at sunrise/sundown. Everything appears to be sealed up really well. I have a theory as to why only on the curb side- the street side is against a fence while parked at the house. The curb side gets the rising sun-
Anyhoo, I will get Jackson Center to check it out when I ho there in the spring.
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
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11-28-2013, 10:31 AM
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#35
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Yep....
After more than a few years of chasing this...my opinion also.
Same clues as well....morning sun warms them, then shade for the rest of the day they stay wet.
Sunny side eventually dries....mostly.
Leave them lit and the heat from the incan bulbs dries them out.
I did have leaks though...you know they leak when the light is half full of water.
Biggest culprit, the center mount screw. An O-ring seal around the inside of the screw and a coating of dielectric grease solved the problem.
A few beads on the inside of the lens, I no longer worry about.
The nice thing about the older style...one screw and the lens is off ready to clean and dry.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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11-28-2013, 07:55 PM
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#36
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony
I'm beginning to think it is maybe just a little harmless condensation caused by temperature differential- the inside and outside cool/warm at different rates at sunrise/sundown. Everything appears to be sealed up really well. I have a theory as to why only on the curb side- the street side is against a fence while parked at the house. The curb side gets the rising sun- Anyhoo, I will get Jackson Center to check it out when I ho there in the spring.
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M. I think I see a small pin hole in the caulk on three of those photos. In each case it's at the area where the lens is caulked to the plastic base . I'm sure there is one at the small end of the red light. Believe it or not, an opening that small will allow moisture to enter and will find its way into the plastic lens if the backside wires on that light are not sealed. I caulked the lights on my trailer myself after the Classic base fix was installed by dealer. On one light I missed one small spot with caulk, and it picked up moisture a month later. I Let the light dry out, re caulked the missing area and no moisture since.
""I'm beginning to think it is maybe just a little harmless condensation"", It's just not going to happen unless there is moisture inside the lens and a factory lens is not going to have moisture present. Maybe a little moisture won't hurt, but like posted earlier, LEDs don't get hot enough to dry themselves out. It's inevitable that some leaking lights will continue to get worse--some may not.
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11-28-2013, 09:14 PM
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#37
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L.
M. I think I see a small pin hole in the caulk on three of those photos. In each case it's at the area where the lens is caulked to the plastic base . I'm sure there is one at the small end of the red light. Believe it or not, an opening that small will allow moisture to enter and will find its way into the plastic lens if the backside wires on that light are not sealed. I caulked the lights on my trailer myself after the Classic base fix was installed by dealer. On one light I missed one small spot with caulk, and it picked up moisture a month later. I Let the light dry out, re caulked the missing area and no moisture since.
""I'm beginning to think it is maybe just a little harmless condensation"", It's just not going to happen unless there is moisture inside the lens and a factory lens is not going to have moisture present. Maybe a little moisture won't hurt, but like posted earlier, LEDs don't get hot enough to dry themselves out. It's inevitable that some leaking lights will continue to get worse--some may not.
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I agree with Howard, a tiny pinhole will let a great deal of water in and almost none will dry out. It will most surely accumulate and pool in the lower base unless the lower base caulking is left open to drain.
We had Classic style bases installed on our trailer at Jackson Center Service Center; one had a pinhole and nearly filled with water until I drained it, dried it, and caulked the pinhole.
There are three components to the LED Classic fixtures. An aluminum base that is exclusive to Classics, then a chrome plastic base that is used on all models, and the combination lens/LED assembly (all one unit) used on all models. Each component is sealed to the next, the Classic aluminum base sealed to Airstream shell.
On our trailer at Jackson Center Service Center they left a sealant gap at the bottom of the Classic base-to-shell to drain on all fixtures except the top rear three. One of these without the drain gap had a pinhole and collected water.
You have a new trailer under warranty, and they will fix it. Call Airstream Customer Service at Jackson Center to report and ask for advice on repair. We contacted them and they offered to have it fixed locally because we lived far from the dealer. Nonetheless, we were traveling through Ohio anyway so made a list for them to do.
Too much do-it-yourself advice could complicate warranty repair, seek manufacturer help here, and send them photos to document the problem.
It is not acceptable for condensation inside the fixture, will lead to corrosion and electrical problems there sooner or later.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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11-29-2013, 02:10 AM
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#38
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Rivet Master
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood
, Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12,111
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The condensation inside the lights hasn't gotten any worse. It's about the same as it was a year ago.
I have already spoken with Jackson Center. They seem willing to replace the lights. I got a lot more "eager to help/want to make you happy" vibe from Jackson Center than from a dealer- 5 hours away /want me to leave the coach/don't have the lights in stock/are unfamiliar or unaware or unknowledgeable about the Classic light bezels-think they are added. I want to make it to Jackson Center in September 2014. I really want to have all warranty/service work/customization/modification done at Jackson Center.
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
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11-29-2013, 04:01 AM
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#39
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
2019 27' Tommy Bahama
London
, Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,343
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As part of our PDI process we put a thin bead of sealant around the light between the lens and the base as well as between the base and the exterior skin, we leave about 2" on the bottom unsealed so water has a way out. This seems to have greatly reduced the incidence of moisture in the lamps.
Andrew T
__________________
Andrew Thomson London, Ontario
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions." Tex Johnston, Boeing 707 test pilot
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11-29-2013, 10:24 AM
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#40
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Pharm, forgot I had a spare light from my "install the Classic cast base" fix job for my lights. Here is what the back if your light and base look like.
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