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goshawks00 · 10-06-2011, 07:55 PM

This all started by drilling a hole and hitting a wire? Did you remove the inside skin and repair the damaged wire? If everything worked before that incident, I'd think that repairing the damage would be the obvious fix.
__________________

First of all it has not been determined that the broken wire is the culprit. I am not sure when the electrical issue started as i hadn't used the 12v system for over a month. Some time during all that I lost my running lights, and don't know when. I do know that issue was a blown fuse in the TV. I didn't have the TV hooked up when the wire got pulled. I also disassembled the fuse panel and 'cleaned all connections a few days before the pulled wire issue... Could it be mis-wired ? I don't think so. I do know that the Univolt is not charging the batt. as it stays at 12v even after 24 hour charging.
Now a novice question what all should work if only connected to the battery? If Univolt stays connected but not used , would that prevent all those lines that should be working on 12v , to not work? I haven't a clue what is happening, but would much rather trade out a not working Univolt than to tear out the whole rear cap on the chance that I might find where the wire is broken , and worse find out that it was in fact a going no where wire that was an option for rear back up lights.
Barry

garry · 10-06-2011, 08:25 PM

If on battery power only then all 12 VDC things should work, refrigerator, all overhead lights, radio, water pump, etc. but no AC outlets or anything that runs on 120VAC.

When plugged in everything should work 12V & 120VAC the 12V runs off the converter and converter charges the battery. IF the converter has failed you would not be able to charge the battery but things should run until the battery runs down.

Splitrock · 10-06-2011, 09:10 PM

@-----> Barry

Maybe you have 5 separate and independent electrical failures, affecting all three electrical systems at once, all coincidental, and all unrelated. I rather doubt it, but I guess it's possible.

With my trailer, I found every wire is testable with either a multi-meter, a small battery charger, a test light, or all three.

My towing 12 volt light system is separate and not related to the converter/battery coach 12 volt power system. The converter is a very straightforward piece of equipment and very easy to test. The battery is like every other battery and is easy to test. The 120 volt system is very simple and easy to test.

For 120 volt quick and easy, I like the no contact voltage testers. I've had open grounds on 120 volt that tested hot but didn't work to power anything except the tester. I think it would have powered me if I had done a bathtub test on it.

As far as identifying the broken damaged wire, that's going to be pretty easy to identify by eliminating everything that's working. All the wires on my trailer have a start and an end. When I find one that has a start and no end . . . I bet that's the one that's broken:-)

goshawks00 · 10-06-2011, 09:25 PM

Ah... and so we have come to the final conclussion... the answer being you know what you are doing and I am a total novice when it comes to electrical issues... In fact you may have a hard time believing this but I'm not sure what you even said. What's a no contact voltage tester and how would I begin to you it to trace curcuits and find where the problem(s) are? Where do you recommend I begin?

Then again I don't suppose you know much about artifical insemination of raptors or the proper way to imprinbt a NA goshawk

.

garry · 10-06-2011, 09:30 PM

One thing you can do to try to isolate;

With Univolt plugged in and battery connected you said everything works.

I would start by removing the wires off the out put of the "12VDC" breakers one at a time to see what each breaker powers.

Splitrock · 10-06-2011, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goshawks00

What's a no contact voltage tester and how would I begin to you it to trace curcuits and find where the problem(s) are? Where do you recommend I begin?

Just go to any home center and ask for a no contact voltage tester. Cost about $10. I'd start at the 120 volt source outlet, the 120 volt breaker panel, the converter, and the umbilical trailer connection. And I'd be dreaming about removing that inside panel where the original wire was damaged.

Quote:

Originally Posted by goshawks00

Then again I don't suppose you know much about artifical insemination of raptors or the proper way to imprinbt a NA goshawk.

I would have a problem there, no doubt. Hahaha!

Gene · 10-06-2011, 10:03 PM

Yeh, it is pretty overwhelming at first, but eventually you get it, or some of it. One good thing about electricity is that it is very logical and by process of elimination, a pretty standard troubleshooting strategy, things get figured out. And, it can only get better, eventually.

I suggest tagging each wire with some tape or paper and tape when you figure out what it does. Then you don't forget what it is. You can make your own diagram of the system. By organizing thusly, you may better understand what you are doing.

One of the standard easy manuals for residential wiring is available lots of places—I've even seen it in Lowe's—is Richter's Wiring Simplified. It can introduce you to the basics of residential wiring and may make it easier to understand 12 v as well. The principles are the same. It takes time to get it. As far as I'm concerned plumbing is a lot harder and I wouldn't where to start with a raptor.

Gene

richinny · 10-06-2011, 10:08 PM

barry, in simple terms you just have to follow the power line.

with the negative lead of the tester or light, start from the battery positive cable and keep testing the route of the wire. the first line goes to the + buss bar. i believe you got a voltage reading there. the power should be hot in and out of each fuse or breaker. the battery line should connect somewhere with the converter. if the converter is not putting out a charge, you might be reading battery voltage at the converter output.

after unplugging the 120v line to the trailer and disconnecting the battery, you can try disconnecting the converter line from the fuse panel (do not let any wires short anywhere) , repower the 120v line and see if there still is voltage out of the converter.

goshawks00 · 10-07-2011, 07:40 AM

Ricky wrote:
after unplugging the 120v line to the trailer and disconnecting the battery, you can try disconnecting the converter line from the fuse panel (do not let any wires short anywhere) , repower the 120v line and see if there still is voltage out of the converter.
__________________

Ricky
After doing this I get 4.0v at the converter with converter plugged in, bat. disconnected

Splitrock ( funny name!) I will pick up a no contact tester today... and will be asking you how to trouble shoot with this.

Garry I will 'plot' these circuits today , as best as I can.

Thanks all, I like the analytical approach.

Barry

goshawks00 · 10-07-2011, 09:10 AM

here is a drawing of current wiring:

goshawks00 · 10-07-2011, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goshawks00

here is a drawing of current wiring:

Breaker #1 controls:
2 front gaucho lights
front overhead light
sink light
stove exh. fan
furnace fan and thermostat
(all these don't work unless the sore line is hooked w/power coming from the Univolt)

Breaker #2 controls:
roof vent
magic fan
bathroom light
(all these don't work unless the sore line is hooked w/power coming from the Univolt)

Breaker #3 controls:
porch light
2 rear gaucho lights
front window light
water pump
(all these work whether 12v or with Univolt attached)

Barry

TG Twinkie · 10-07-2011, 04:56 PM

Looks like all you need to do is put a jumper between fuse 1 and fuse 3. Put the jumper on the top side of the fuses in your drawing. Everything should work after installing the jumper whether you are on shore power or battery.

goshawks00 · 10-07-2011, 06:20 PM

Guys I got to tell you..It really is a testament to this site and the type of folks that will spend the time to help a fellow 'streamer out, even a 2 monther like me.
Garry from OK. spent several hours today on the phone and exchanging emails helping me get the thing done...
After much deliberation and experimentation,checking out wjhat worked on more like what didn't work, he walked me through installing the PD9245. BTW you guys that did it in forty five minutes, I tip my hat to you... It took me that long just to run an AC box to plug the PD into, and close to 2 1/2 hours to finish the job..
Drum roll!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's alive. Everything works both DC and AC. Thank you Garry you are a borderline genius!!
Barry

Oh!! anyone want a no contact tester...cheap!! Never used it though it is cool to play with to see how it worked..

Gene · 10-07-2011, 06:39 PM

Keep the tester. You'll need it sometime.

Gene

goshawks00 · 10-07-2011, 07:11 PM

Thanks Gene, though I hate your optimisim!

3Ms75Argosy · 10-09-2011, 12:15 PM

Yeah! Glad you're up and running! So besides a dead univolt, what else did you find out?

Splitrock · 10-09-2011, 12:30 PM

So . . . the running lights, turn signals, and brake lights all work okay now too . . . right?

goshawks00 · 10-10-2011, 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Yeah! Glad you're up and running! So besides a dead univolt, what else did you find out?

I have not found where the small black wire came from or was going to, it may be as was suggested a drop for an option that was not used... Some one else suggested it may have been a radio wire, sorry just don't know.

Barry

goshawks00 · 10-10-2011, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Splitrock

So . . . the running lights, turn signals, and brake lights all work okay now too . . . right?

Gulp!! You would have to ask that...

I don't know, I assumed because they were working before that they still were, but that is a good question, I will find out tomorrow..thanks!
Barry

goshawks00 · 10-10-2011, 09:16 AM

YES!! everything works including including the brakes running. turns...
Now there is one thing that isn't working and that is the bat.chek meter... I took it off and went directly across the bat +- and it reads poor. The PD did come with a little box that tells what stage the PD is working in , but I would like a gauge of some type to actually tell me the bat. condition at a glance... what is available? BTW the bat is now at b13.6v.
Thanks all,
Barry