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Old 01-20-2019, 06:11 PM   #1
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LED Water Heater "On" Indicators

Finally got our LEDs installed on the water heater switch.

We had them in our old Jayco and missed them in our AS. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-20-2019, 06:15 PM   #2
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Nice, do you have a link for the parts?
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Old 01-20-2019, 06:21 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Totlh View Post
Nice, do you have a link for the parts?
Only parts you need are led lights and wire. We drilled a 7/64 hole in the faceplate.

Led lights from Fryes Electronics. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-21-2019, 06:37 AM   #4
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Thanks. Nice idea. I think I'll be adding that to my to do list.
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Old 01-21-2019, 06:53 AM   #5
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The info on the box is hard to read but I think I got it. Is this correct?

Linrose Super Brite LED with Integral Resistor, 12V - Red
Frys: 625682
Model: B4302F1/12V
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:07 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Totlh View Post
The info on the box is hard to read but I think I got it. Is this correct?

Linrose Super Brite LED with Integral Resistor, 12V - Red
Frys: 625682
Model: B4302F1/12V
Yes that's what it says.

I believe these are the ones we bought

https://www.frys.com/product/625682?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Totlh View Post
The info on the box is hard to read but I think I got it. Is this correct?

Linrose Super Brite LED with Integral Resistor, 12V - Red
Frys: 625682
Model: B4302F1/12V
Yes that's it. Link to the ones we bought.

https://www.frys.com/product/625682?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:57 AM   #8
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Emelaich, would you please clarify your steps. I’m not sure how you have the red light secured in the plastic. What wire are talking about that you had to have and what gauge how long. From the photo not sure what wire goes where. Why are 2wires put together and what are they hooked to?

Love the post and the idea. Why AS doesn’t do this is beyond me.

Thanks
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Old 01-21-2019, 10:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munchie View Post
Emelaich, would you please clarify your steps. Iím not sure how you have the red light secured in the plastic. What wire are talking about that you had to have and what gauge how long. From the photo not sure what wire goes where. Why are 2wires put together and what are they hooked to?

Love the post and the idea. Why AS doesnít do this is beyond me.

Thanks
Emelaich, I'd like more direction, too. Great idea. I'd used it even though I have no problem with the way the switches work now: up=on, down=off... like a regular wall switch. Still, it's a really good idea. 👏👍😎
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Old 01-21-2019, 10:58 AM   #10
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Adding LED indicator lights

We sized the LEDs with a drill index and selected a 7/64" bit. This is a snug fit so press each LED into the hole from the back and put a dab of your favorite plastic cement on the rear of the LED and a little ways around the margin to secure. Be sure you use 12V LEDs, otherwise, you'll need to use a dropping resistor which will add unnecessary complexity to the installation. Get the smallest you can find; ours are 3mm, as we had very little room to work with.

I soldered some Belden #22 stranded hook-up wire to each lead--note: the long lead on the LED is the anode (+) and the short, the cathode (-). Use about 6" for each lead, two colors preferred for ease of installation. the size of the wire isn't critical as long as the completed joint is small enough to fit through the holes in the switch mount.

From the rear of the switch assembly, faceplate mounted, look directly thru the rectangular hole and line it up with where you'll want to drill. Done properly, this will approximate the center of each rocker switch. You want to drill directly in the center--horizontally as well as vertically--to mount each LED with the wires coming thru the hole just above each switch. Recommend you allow just a few revolutions to make a divot in the back of the faceplate; now remove it and make sure that your divots are aligned and everything looks good. Place the faceplate down on a piece of scrap lumber and complete each hole.

The positive supply wires are pink in our coach; one feeds a white/blk stripe wire and the other an orange/blk stripe wire. Our negative wire is the white wire to the 'fail' light. Each LED wire was simply stripped, with the bare (+) end put into the female disconnect of each striped wire and then pressed back on the switch terminal. Regardless of the color, you want to identify the 'hot' wire on each switch and once done, wire your (+) LED lead to the OTHER wire on the same switch.

I realize the proper way to do this would be to get 5 conversion clips, put a disconnect on each wire and connect that way; however, this is an extremely low-current application and protected with a 5-amp fuse, a good match for the wire used.

In our application, we used red wires for the positive connections and black for the negative. This does not affect the circuitry of the 'fail to light' indicator nor do blocking diodes need to be used in this circuit as we did on our center brake light.

The extra length will be needed while you mount the switches back to the cutout--I used a small rotary rasp to open some room to thread the wires thru--and secure with the mounting screws. You may or may not need this step--check your clearance. You should now be able to feed the LED wires back thru the cutouts in the switch mounting and back into the void behind. That extra length now allows you to mount the switch panel and once done, snap the faceplate back into place.

Your success is not guaranteed but well worth the effort. If you find an easier way to do this, please post here and use you imagination as to where you'll want to repeat this operation.


Good luck and thanks for your inquiry!
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Old 01-21-2019, 12:03 PM   #11
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it's also nice to do the same thing for the water pump. My 2 previous Airstreams had pump indicator lights but not the 2013. They gotta do better in design and manufacture.
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Old 01-21-2019, 02:28 PM   #12
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Has anyone installed a LED pilot lite on the water pump? How did you wire it up?
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Old 01-21-2019, 02:32 PM   #13
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Very nice modification, another project for the winter. Thank you for posting.

A link to Amazon for the Linrose leds that you used:

https://www.amazon.com/Linrose-B4302.../dp/B008K22AJE
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:04 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emelaich View Post
We sized the LEDs with a drill index and selected a 7/64" bit. This is a snug fit so press each LED into the hole from the back and put a dab of your favorite plastic cement on the rear of the LED and a little ways around the margin to secure. Be sure you use 12V LEDs, otherwise, you'll need to use a dropping resistor which will add unnecessary complexity to the installation. Get the smallest you can find; ours are 3mm, as we had very little room to work with.

~

Good luck and thanks for your inquiry!
Thank you so much for the instructions. 🤯 I'm saving them for my spring project! 😉
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Old 01-22-2019, 12:42 PM   #15
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I was reading through the recent posts and now I have to ask why you didnít go with just replacing the switch with a switch that lights up when on.

If there is no technical reason , it may be a simpler solution than wireing in separate LEDs. Thoughts?

I really like the idea either way.
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Old 01-22-2019, 12:51 PM   #16
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to install a water pump indicator, splice 2 wires to the water pump feed wires and run them to your selected light location. Use a 12v led and insert in drilled hole from closet side of wall. I mounted mine high on the closet wall so it can be seen inside the trailer and also from outside the entry door.
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Old 01-22-2019, 01:34 PM   #17
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Lighted Pump Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by guskmg View Post
Has anyone installed a LED pilot lite on the water pump? How did you wire it up?
guskmg
I installed this one in my 2013 right after I got the trailer. It has the Micro Pulse Monitor system so yours may be different. I found a switch online that was an exact fit for the existing hole for the unlighted switch. It was mostly a one for one swap, all I had to do was add a wire to the back of the new switch and tap into the ground that was there. There was an empty tab on the old switch, no ground. Can't remember where I got new switch but if I can find the receipt, I usually keep them, I'll get back with that info.

I liked green, thought it might since really stand out since everything else seemed to have red when on.
Sorry about sideways photo, no matter what I try this is the only way it will post.

Works good, lasts long time...Ö.
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Old 01-22-2019, 01:51 PM   #18
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Great idea. On my previous trailer, (after leaving switch in wrong position) I used a label maker to put labels on the top of each switch.

Dave
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Old 01-22-2019, 04:08 PM   #19
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I was reading through the recent posts and now I have to ask why you didnít go with just replacing the switch with a switch that lights up when on.

If there is no technical reason , it may be a simpler solution than wireing in separate LEDs. Thoughts?

I really like the idea either way.
Technically, sure that would work but we wanted to preserve the "look" of the AS in the least obtrusive way.
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:39 PM   #20
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Technically, sure that would work but we wanted to preserve the "look" of the AS in the least obtrusive way.
Great mod... thanks for posting.

I wonder if you gave any consideration to putting the LEDs behind the switch into the cavity around the red lens. This way, there would be no LEDs added to the front panel, yet the LEDs would clearly shine through the existing red lens. Does this narrative make a bit of sense?
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