LED Water Heater "On" Indicators

[kscherzi]

Does the red LED still light on the water heater panel for electric if the trailer is not connected to hookups?

[emelaich]

Originally Posted by kscherzi

Does the red LED still light on the water heater panel for electric if the trailer is not connected to hookups?

We found no contraindications in the operation / simulated failure of either gas or electric use.

[emelaich]

Originally Posted by kscherzi

Does the red LED still light on the water heater panel for electric if the trailer is not connected to hookups?

Sorry don't think that answered your question
Yes the LED will light if water heater electric is flipped on and not plugged into shore power.

[Bluto]

Following along.

[emelaich]

First trip out after install and LEDs doing their job!

[FloydCoVa]

emelaich, Thanks for the mod. Just got back from our first trip with the lights. Love them. Now we have reminders as to turn off the water heater when not needed,when we leave for awhile and before bedtime. Great mod. Scott

[UncleBad]

emelaich, thanks for the post and the instructions! Just completed this on our AS and really like being able to simply glance at the switch to determine if it is on or off.

For others doing the mod, remember to disconnect your batteries or pull the water heater fuse. When I removed the wires from the back of the switch and let loose of them, they touched the sink and "pop" went the fuse. I brand new 15 fuse and we have lights!

[ROBERT CROSS]

All that's old is new again...😂

Bob
🇺🇸

When was the light eliminated?

[dznf0g]

I think when the micropulse panel started being used and the second pump switch was added in the bathroom.

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

All that's old is new again...[emoji23]

Bob
[emoji631]

When was the light eliminated?

[TylerG]

Anyone know where I can purchase that two switch panel. I am renovating an old AS and that switch is perfect. One will go to the gas heater and I can assign the other to the water pump.

Originally Posted by emelaich

Finally got our LEDs installed on the water heater switch.

We had them in our old Jayco and missed them in our AS. Attachment 332061Attachment 332062Attachment 332063

[kittmaster]

Does anyone know where I can get the plate by itself as a spare?

AS is saying to go through the dealer to get the part 512480-01 but I not feeling paying a markup for a simple part.

It irks me because we saw people in JC just walk in and buy parts yet I'm expected to go through a dealer.

I want to work with a spare to do the mod and not have to worry about damaging my original.

[link2dks]

Originally Posted by kittmaster

Does anyone know where I can get the plate by itself as a spare?

AS is saying to go through the dealer to get the part 512480-01 but I not feeling paying a markup for a simple part.

It irks me because we saw people in JC just walk in and buy parts yet I'm expected to go through a dealer.

I want to work with a spare to do the mod and not have to worry about damaging my original.

Why not go ahead and do the mod, carefully, and save yourself having to buy a wall plate you'll never use for anything else. That would be saving some money!

You can always buy one later if you mess up the first time. BTW I wouldn't count on saving any money buying from the Mother Ship vs a dealer. If you need a new wall plate try Out of Doors Mart (NC Airstream dealer), they are supposed to be very good at getting AS parts.

Dave S

[kittmaster]

Originally Posted by link2dks

Why not go ahead and do the mod, carefully, and save yourself having to buy a wall plate you'll never use for anything else. That would be saving some money!

You can always buy one later if you mess up the first time. BTW I wouldn't count on saving any money buying from the Mother Ship vs a dealer. If you need a new wall plate try Out of Doors Mart (NC Airstream dealer), they are supposed to be very good at getting AS parts.

Dave S

When I ordered the latch assembly for my trailer which had to go via dealer only, they marked it up 20% just for getting for me.....complete BS.

[CoorsLite]

Originally Posted by emelaich

Finally got our LEDs installed on the water heater switch.

We had them in our old Jayco and missed them in our AS. Attachment 332061Attachment 332062Attachment 332063

I really like this idea for the hot water heater. I have two spare 12v LEDs (no other specs) that *might* serve the purpose. My question is - Is the resistance a key factor? Might I introduce a risk to the hot water heater circuit if there is insufficient resistance in my LEDs? I know the LEDs are inexpensive, so I could just order the suggested LEDs and proceed. I am just trying to understand / learn the electrical aspects of this install. Thanks in advance for your guidance.

[emelaich01]

Te LED is a passive device and won't introduce any spurious voltage to the circuit board. You'll find it's invaluable, espcially if camping with kids who might otherwise hit the water switch(-es) instead of the bathroom light.
Since doing this, we've also added LED's to the rocker switches for the outdoor lights, especially useful for those under the awning.

[solomon.m]

Thanks for all the advise on this install, just completed it on mine. I also found these 3-way MFM spade adapters that made connecting the LED leads to the switch pretty easy. Here are a couple pics

[ZOZ]

Whenever someone post a mod that I use, I reciprocate by posting a mod that others can use. This LED light mod for the water heater panel was good.

We were at a campground and forgot to shut off the outside LED white lights and the step light. A knock during the night from a tent camper who asked us to shut them off so he could sleep. We had no idea they were on.

So, I constructed the LED mod for the light switch as well.





First off, it’s not easy as the switch panel for the outdoor light in our 2018 FC23FB picks up the ground somewhere else. All I had were two yellow wires and a yellow/blue and a yellow/green. So, I had to add a ground.

Materials:

2 Lirose super bright 3mm LED with resistor B4302F1-12 volt.

https://www.frys.com/product/625682?...romSearch=true

24 gauge Red/black speaker wire.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 ANCOR marine grade double Male-female adapters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 WAGO push wire connector 4-wire.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNBZ78V...dDbGljaz10cnVl

1 14 gauge 20 foot white ground wire.

1 #18 drill bit.

1/8” shrink wrap

https://www.amazon.com/SwitchMe-198P...371829&sr=8-11

When you pop off the switch panel, use a 1/16” drill bit #18 drill bit to make a hole centered above each rocker switch. I used a Dremel 4000 drill press to make the starting hole drilling from the front of the switch cover. I then finished with the #18 drill bit.

With the Linrose LED, I soldered the red wire to the anode (+) of the LED and a black wire to the cathode (-) negative side of the LED then used shrink wrap to cover my soldered joint. The Linrose LED comes with a snap-in bezel. Snap it into the #18 drilled hole.

The LED will snuggly fit into the bezel. If it falls out some glue to the inside of the LED wires from behind will secure it. Attach a female spade connector to each end of the LED leads. Remove any lead covering from the spade connector or it won’t fit into the switch panel hole.

When I removed the shower service panel there wasn’t much room. To find a ground, I drilled a rivet from an aluminum panel close to the front door and used a stainless steel screw to fasten a ground wire to it and then ran the ground wire to the service opening where I had removed the switch.

When you pull the four wires from the back of the rocker switch, you may not notice that they use 12 gauge wire with .187 female spade connectors. This means if you use the double male to female adapters which are .250, you’ll l have to grind them down to the smaller size. PITA.





Another issue is that the wires are so close to the shower, they are bent nearly at a forty-five degree angle to clear the shower. So, what I did was make a wire extension to connect the yellow/blue and the yellow/green so I had more room to work with.





The black LED wires connect to the ground and the bottom of the rocker switch two spades, yellow/green and independently, the yellow/blue. wire. The red LED wires connect to the two spades on the top of the rocker switch along with the yellow wires.




Disclaimer: This project took several hours almost two days to get right. But, the result was very eye pleasing.

zoz

[GCinSC2]

Interesting.

Will review details later but I can see this added to fridge 120V heater circuit as a diagnostic tool.

[greghoro]

Any tips on removing the faceplate so as to not break any tabs?


Greg

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by greghoro

Any tips on removing the faceplate so as to not break any tabs?
Greg

The outer ring is held by a couple plastic pins that seat into holes in the switch assembly. I took one off with my fingers, but a small flat screwdriver carefully inserted between the wood and the plastic will do. The switches snap into the inner ring (part with the labels) and can be released by pushing in their tabs.