LED light FIXTURES

[Canlib]

Does anyone know a source for led fixtures suitable for ceiling mounting? Lots of threads show up in my search with information for replacing bulbs in existing fixtures, but I need new fixtures since my Airstream was gutted before I got it.

[fltlevel510]

If you are looking for an inexpensive plastic fixture the Kaper II led dome light is available for around $50. I saw these at an RV show but was unable to find out just how many lumens of light they produced. They seemed a little dim. If you want something a bit nicer try one of the Marine store like West Marine. They usually have stainless steel led fixtures which would look very nice in your Airstream.
I was also in an Ikea store recently and they had several types of under the counter led tube lights. The lights were powered by a small 12v transformer that plugged into standard household 110v outlet. I would assume you could power them directly from your 12v.

[pbearsailor]

I'm using LED Puck lights from VTS

-steve

[Canlib]

Thanks for the input! I'll have a look at Ikea...Marine Supply prices always scare me. Steve how do the VTS units mount? I can't see screw holes in the pictures. I was originally thinking I'd have to cut large holes in the inner skin, but those thin surface mounts could make my life easier!

Ian

[Aerowood]

I bought a complete fixture from Dan at led4rv, but haven't seen it yet as I have been away from home, forever it seems. Contact him, he's a great guy to work with. I will most likely buy more from him after my wife sees it lit and tells me if I like it of not.

LEDs 4, Recreational Vehicles

[pbearsailor]

Originally Posted by Canlib

Thanks for the input! I'll have a look at Ikea...Marine Supply prices always scare me. Steve how do the VTS units mount? I can't see screw holes in the pictures. I was originally thinking I'd have to cut large holes in the inner skin, but those thin surface mounts could make my life easier!

Ian

Ian, the outside piece comes off and hides the three mounting screws. Only need a big enough hole to run the wires.

-steve

[Dave Park]

Another nice thing about 12V LED lighting is that you can use a basic potentiometer with a click-off position as a dimmer switch. This does not harm the LEDs and can extend their life and your battery life considerably.

[hampstead38]

Any difference between the "warm" LED pucks and the normal "bright"? And I'm going back and forth between the marine pucks at WestMarine and the pucks at VTS. Any recommendations are appreciated.

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by Dave Park

Another nice thing about 12V LED lighting is that you can use a basic potentiometer with a click-off position as a dimmer switch. This does not harm the LEDs and can extend their life and your battery life considerably.

I don't think having a resistor inline to dim the LED will save your battery any at all. The potentiometer is just a variable resistor, and it is dissipating the energy that would have been consumed by the LED in a direct circuit, so it all looks the same to the battery.

[Dave Park]

LEDs work based on current, not voltage, and resistors restrict current flow. The way LEDs dim, some will remain quite bright while others shut off altogether, so the current draw drops as the LEDs dim.

This reduction in current draw is the energy saving effect.

However, you could also use a 555 timer IC to create a PWM controller to achieve the same effect. I'd be happy to put up an open source circuit design anyone could use...

[pbearsailor]

Originally Posted by hampstead38

Any difference between the "warm" LED pucks and the normal "bright"? And I'm going back and forth between the marine pucks at WestMarine and the pucks at VTS. Any recommendations are appreciated.

The warm light is a color temperature that's a little yellower, more like what a regular incandescent bulb does. There's sort of a bluish tinge with the normal LED. I like the warm one's much better.

-steve

[Canlib]

Thanks Steve, the VTS puck sounds perfect. Dave, I'd like to see the dimmer diagram. I'll experiment with the simple pot. solution too.

Thanks

Ian

[hampstead38]

I just ordered three and some other odds and ends from VTS. I'll take a photo of them after I get them installed.

[Diesel1]

I purchased a trouble light that is LED, its great I don't burn myself any more. The downside...it is only bright when you are staring at the LEDs. I am saddly disapointed at the light it doesn't produce. I am sticking with floresenct lights in my 67. Adios, John

[Jammer]

For new fixtures for general illumination (rather than a spotlight) you may find that fluorescent lamps are a better alternative. The light is more natural, the fixtures are cheaper, and the amp draw for a given brightness is about the same.

[Dave Park]

The current draw for LEDs is typically 30-40% lower than for CFLs, which are the most efficient of the florescent lights. Strip lights have an older style of ballast and are less efficient run off 12v as they require an additional driver circuit that is done electronically in the CFLs.

However, the LEDs have a 200-500% price premium to get that 30-40% saving, and do not include the fixture.

[Jammer]

Depends. Many 12v fluorescent fixtures now have electronic ballasts. Mine do. And, some tubes are more efficient than others, due to the nature of the phosphor coating.

The relative efficiency of fluorescent and LED lighting is the subject of considerable debate especially when the goal is broad angle, diffuse illumination. With LEDs there are cost and brightness tradeoffs. Many LED fixtures are run at higher brightness than their peak efficiency point to reduce the number of LEDs required and therefore the initial cost. And, higher efficiency LEDs cost more and have lower CRI.

[Diesel1]

Don't know about all the fancy stuff, I just know the LEDs ain't very bright if you are wanting to see. Adios, John

[hampstead38]

The box of LED lights has arrived. Light or not, they are going in.

[Canlib]

I'm eager to see pictures and hear your impressions about the amount of light!

Ian