Clearance lights

[agg79]

Question to the group: I picked up a 2003 30' Classic S/O in December and have been working over a punch list of issues/repairs (most due to lack of use). One that just popped up was the running/clearance lights. They all worked when I picked up the trailer and drove it down from north Texas in but recently stopped working. Thinking there might be some corrosion in the 7 pin connector, I replaced the connector head with no success. Checking the fuse panel in the lounge area and all were functional. I am stumped as to why I cannot get the running lights to operate. All other wiring functions (stop lights, brake lights, back up lights, turn signals) are functional but just no running lights. BTW - the problem is not with the TV. We tried to jumper across from the 12v battery feed (black) to the running lights (green) on the connector but no joy. I am looking for suggestions. Is there another fuse or contact point I should be looking at?

TIA

Jerry
2003 30' Classic S/O

[SeeMore]

Jerry,

I, too, have a 2003 slide out which we have had since 2006 and love. If your wiring matches mine, each light is grounded to the skin which indicates an "open" issue with the positive/power side since all of your clearance lights are affected.

Start by confirming you have power on the green wire connection at the 7-way plug from the TV and again after the plug. Use a meter with probes to confirm values.

If not there, I suspect your issue will be found where the wire sleeve enters the body and could be damaged causing the short.

I doubt the issue is hidden within the body work but by tracing the positive wiring starting at the plug through the body entry and on to the first junction (the Y splitting front and rear circuitry) in the forward ceiling section behind the upper cabinetry (cabinet removal is a two person job) you will discover the break.

[GCinSC2]

Dave

Does yours and the Jerry’s have a junction box where the 7 way cable enters the front of the trailer?

Might be a decent place to look.

Gary

[agg79]

Originally Posted by SeeMore

Jerry,

I, too, have a 2003 slide out which we have had since 2006 and love. If your wiring matches mine, each light is grounded to the skin which indicates an "open" issue with the positive/power side since all of your clearance lights are affected.

Start by confirming you have power on the green wire connection at the 7-way plug from the TV and again after the plug. Use a meter with probes to confirm values.

If not there, I suspect your issue will be found where the wire sleeve enters the body and could be damaged causing the short.

I doubt the issue is hidden within the body work but by tracing the positive wiring starting at the plug through the body entry and on to the first junction (the Y splitting front and rear circuitry) in the forward ceiling section behind the upper cabinetry (cabinet removal is a two person job) you will discover the break.

Thanks for the suggestion. I took the facepate of the fuse panel off trying to see if one of the buss fuses was shorted or blown, but everything looked fine. I will start with the TV connection to verify power on the green line but still think the issue is inside the trailer. I will start back from the connector and chase it into the trailer to see if I can find any grounding or shorts along the line.

[agg79]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Dave

Does yours and the Jerry’s have a junction box where the 7 way cable enters the front of the trailer?

Might be a decent place to look.

Gary

Gary,

Thanks for the suggestion. I don't believe there is a junction box but I'll pull the front couch up to check.

Jerry

[GCinSC2]

Jerry

The 7 way I bet enters the trailer and terminates. It connects to other wires to run the trailer as they go in different directions.

Hunch look for a black box maybe 2x3x5” or so with two screws in it’s cover.

At least that separates into coming in vs distribution.

Gary

[ROBERT CROSS]

OK now it's been over 30yrs since I had to diagnose a similar problem on our '63 Safari. But I do remember taking one light out powering the wire and that helped locate where the open was. I started at the front

The Classics problem has always been bad grounds causing flickering lamps.🥴

Bob
🇺🇸

[SeeMore]

My trailer is likely the prototype 28 Safari model and the wiring harness may not match the later units as Airstream has denied building a 28 foot slide in late 2002 (the date on my original appliances and chassis & a Feb 2003 delivery date).

I have had all my clearance lights off and replaced with the new LED models and I don't have the aforementioned black junction box in the area Gary's 30 Classic has one. My harness was missing a rubber grommet (or other protection) where the wiring entered the shell and the sharp edges did damage the casing hence my suspicion.

I have a number of differences throughout my unit when compared to later Safari builds I've toured including cabinetry and an undocumented 110/120 junction box in the slide out shell electrical diagram. My fuse panel and converter are actually mounted in the rear bedroom of my unit within inches of the exterior utility power plug.

[SeeMore]

Jerry,

I happened upon this explanation of trailer wiring:
https://www.youtube.com/embed/R2yznf5kKaI

At the ten minute mark or shortly thereafter is the story of clearance light wiring.