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Old 10-15-2010, 06:08 AM   #1
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1978 28' Ambassador
Savannah , Georgia
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3-way galley light switch question

Have 2 switches that are supposed to control galley roof locker lights. They did not work. How do I test to see if there is power to the switches? Removed the 2 switches. Any help for future removal of these switches also appreciated. Have to admit I forced the dang things out. Those plastic "springs" would not collapse. There are three wires coming out of each hole. There are also turn switches (on/off) on each of the 2 lights. The lights can be turned on at the fixture, but would really like to have the option of turning them on at the doorway when entering the AS. Have 2 new switches (3-ways) on the way. Any help appreciated. Thanks. Jack
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Old 10-15-2010, 07:37 AM   #2
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power to the rotary switch - there should be a wire(12v hot) that
comes down into the light fixture. power goes from this wire - through the bulb
and then to ground to complete the circuit.

installing a 3-way switch requires a bit of added wiring. do you have
access to run the added wires? if not - abandon the idea
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Old 10-15-2010, 07:54 AM   #3
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The picture below shows how a 3way is wired. You should be able to meter the wires and determine the correct setup. You will not see the 12 volt return wire in at the switches.
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:15 AM   #4
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Going to get out voltmeter. Not sure what I am looking for, but will report any findings. Thanks. Jack
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:57 AM   #5
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Oops, posted before understanding your problem. Sorry.
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Old 10-19-2010, 02:26 PM   #6
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Uncovered the two lights over the galley. Have a strong feeling the wall mounted switches have been bypassed because it appears the lights are direct wired to control panel. Will do more investigation when the new switches arrive. Thanks to all. Jack
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:58 AM   #7
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This is the setup in the AS. 1st switch (by the door)in series has a brown power hot wire. There are two pink/grey wires that go the the 2nd switch (over the galley). If I flip the 1st switch the pink/grey change power at the contacts. On the 2nd switch the hot wire is pink/yellow (manual shows that it should also be brown) that appears to go to the fixtures and is wired to both lights and is hot. The pink/yellow wire goes into the wall behind the 2nd switch and I think then reappears in the bundle of wires under the exhaust hood. Unplug the brown and pink/yellow wires from the switches and I still have power at the fixture. Guess I need to trace back the pink/yellow wire and see if it is spliced to another power source? Will undo the bundle of wires today and try to isolate the pink/yellow wire. If it is the same wire until it disappears into the wall then I guess I am sunk unless I open up the walls.
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:31 AM   #8
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Finally unbundled wires over stove. There were 2 pink/yellow wires. One went into the back of the control panel. Tracing the other pink/yellow wire resulted in finding it cut off and taped alongside another wire. Took the tester and started flipping wall switches. I have controlled power! Traced the yellow/pink wire back from the lights and found that it had been spliced into a solid pink hot wire that went into the control panel. I think all I have to do now is unsplice the wire from the lights and rejoin the yellow/pink wires. What is suggested? Wire nuts or connectors? Thanks. Jack
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Old 11-27-2010, 01:11 PM   #9
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Connected all the wires and labeled them. When putting the switch back in the wall by the door I keep shorting out the fuse. What should I do to stop this? This may be why someone changed the setup and bypassed the switches. Can I wrap electrical tape around the three connectors to prevent them touching the inside of the wall? Thanks for any help. So close, yet so far!
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:53 PM   #10
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Went ahead and wrapped the three connectors with electrical tape. The old switch had the connectors bent at an angle due to the limited space behind the panel/outside wall. I fnally managed to squeeze the switch back into the wall without shorting out the fuse. Are all the holes for these switches this tight? I now understand why I had so much trouble getting the old switches out. The switch works and now I have light over the sink/galley upon entering the trailer. Thanks for all your help. Jack
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