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Old 01-14-2020, 04:26 PM   #1
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1976 24' Argosy 24
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1970's Round Ceiling Light Switch


Hello all. Thought I would post the repair I made on our round ceiling light from our 76 Argosy. The old switch finally broke after 44 years, and as you can imagine Jackson Center was unwilling to warranty it.
The new switch is a Jandorf 61214 Brass knob long shaft. It works as the old one did; off, load 1, load 2, load 1+2 in sequence. Using a 1 1/4 inch fender washer I was able to attach the switch to the old cracked base. The new switch is typical made in china quality I'm afraid, but it was the only long shaft I could find on the www. There are tons of short shaft rotary switches, but they will not reach through the light cover.
Hope this helps other Vintage owners. G
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Old 01-14-2020, 05:14 PM   #2
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Switch looks good but it may get hot with 4 incandescent bulbs. Look for a set of LED replacements for the bulbs.
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Old 01-14-2020, 05:17 PM   #3
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Good advice. those are the original type bulbs, and they do get hot.
can you get LEDs with that nice yellow tone?
I hate the daylight color of some of them. ie. 6000K etc.
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Old 01-14-2020, 05:54 PM   #4
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1970's Round Ceiling Light Switch

Look for “warm white” replacements as available at LED4RV as one example. They look much warmer. I used them to replace the harsh hot halogen bulbs throughout my Airstream.
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Old 01-14-2020, 05:57 PM   #5
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https://online.flippingbook.com/view/828014/46/ <--- see 61214

Something I remember reading here in the forums and saying 'aha' over back in 2006 when I was piecing together interior parts...

Aside from the bulbs getting hot - 1156/57 bulbs are 27 watt at 12.8vdc, so 2.1A draw on each bulb, now multiply by four for 8.4A current in the circuit - looks like the switch is rated 120V and 3A - some would say that is 120VAC x 3A for 360W and use the power (4 x 27W = 108) but that's not really how it works, there will be excessive internal heating to the switch with higher current flow even at a lower voltage, the housing will get brittle and crack etc. ...

Some manufacturers usually have a mechanically identical part with higher current ratings, but they are not in as much demand, or perhaps the only sell a few compared to the lower rated ones that burn out repeatedly... Does not look like Jandorf has such listed in the linked catalog.

Anyhow, there are upgrades to switches for higher amperage DC lighting circuits as is found on vintage Airstreams, just hard to find to make it last half of forever.
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Old 01-15-2020, 10:48 AM   #6
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Looks good. Amazon is your friend for warm white LED bulbs.
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Old 01-16-2020, 03:28 PM   #7
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So the new switch is rated 3A-250VAC, 3A-125VL, 6A-125VAC

The old switch says; 1A-250VAC, 3A-125V-T

So I assumed I was OK. No?
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Old 01-16-2020, 08:56 PM   #8
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Eeee... umnnn... err.....

Rhetorical question, how do we know the old one is original...

Yes - it's borderline okay but not ideal. The old one went brittle and failed in a safe mode so no reason to suspect the new one will cause worse problems when it goes.
And - if you put LED conversion lamps in the fixture you will have a near-forever solution.

Ratings suffix:
The VL is inductive loads, motors & transformers, V - T is tungsten lighting, pure resistive load.

Two circuit switch, split the 8A twice and its 25% over rating each circuit, not so bad especially if the highest brightness is seldomly used... <cough>

I have three spares floating around, the only one I found readily (just now) is 125VAC 3A, note 'that I found it' means it was not used. Darn hard doing forensics when it's -5°F and no power in the parts trailer - I will look tomorrow in the ceiling fixtures...
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Old 01-17-2020, 05:33 PM   #9
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I know the old was is original because i've owned this trailer over 25yrs.
I still don't quite understand why the old switch is OK, and the new one that is rated for higher amps is boarderline?
The old switch wore out because it's been used since 1976
Please explain. Thanks, George
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Old 01-18-2020, 10:05 PM   #10
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You've owned it for a little over half of its lifetime, very nice, and just there you've called the switch 'old' when what was needed is make/model/specs of the OEM (original equipment) hardware (not merely 'old').

Looking back at the link to Jandorf catalog - do we see DC ratings on any of their products on that page? There are two less complicated switches with a 1 amp DC rating but that's higher voltage 125VDC - DC loves to draw an Arc and that defeats the opening of a circuit and 125VDC would draw a doozy of one and that is hard to design for...

This forum is a Worldbook of all things Airstream. There will be hundreds of future views of this thread and many of those viewers will have family, so sleeping children, women and drunks...errr, men... So - here be folks you and I can't imagine that might be harmed by 'good enough' engineering. I respectfully showed my sources & worked the math and made qualified descriptions of possibilities.

If* you are seeking approval then write Jandorf engineering and ask why they don't list DC amperages on this and their other products, describe this circuit of four 27 watt bulbs and 12 volts (9 AMPS) and let us see what they say??


EDIT: Digging out from near-blizzard today, did not get near the parts trailer - 0°F and drifted snow, almost 3 gallons fuel spent on clearing ours & neighbors campuses. Ma·ña·na Señor!
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:57 PM   #11
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You seem to be inferring that i am being disrespectful or reckless with other people's safety in using this switch. If that is your opinion then I believe we should ask the moderator to remove this thread altogether. It is not my intention to post misleading or unsafe information.
George
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