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Old 02-08-2016, 07:10 PM   #1
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1977 31' Sovereign
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12 volt panel - replace

I'm planning to replace the current 12 volt panel:

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I'll use this new panel with BUS fuses:

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The current panel uses 30 amp fuses? This seems like a lot. Should I use 30a Bus fuses in the new panel?

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As always, thanks for the input, comments and suggestions.

Jason


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Old 02-08-2016, 07:34 PM   #2
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That new panel looks like the same one I used when I pulled out the old Univolt in my '73 and replaced it with a modern 3 stage charger.

I simply duplicated the connections and fuse sizes that were on the old Univolt panel. I'm not an engineer, but I figured an engineer must have designed that layout back in '73. That guy or gal knew a whole lot more about electrons running around on those circuits than I ever will.

What model camper do you have?

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Old 02-08-2016, 07:46 PM   #3
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It's a 1977 sovereign. I upgraded from the uninvolt last year to a modern convertor. The panel was separate from the univolt and now it needs to go.

Over the years, owners have made multiple changes to the interior 12 volt wiring. I might start with 15 amp on each circuit and see what happens. If it blows, I'll move up to 20, 25 then 30. ...not to exceed the current amps.


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Old 02-08-2016, 08:42 PM   #4
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Searching my memory banks I seem to recall 2 30 amp fuses for the battery and charging system. 4 20 amp circuits for distributing the power to the trailer circuits.. Your photo looks like circuit breakers not fuses. I could be wrong.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:34 PM   #5
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There should be no circuit in your coach that requires a fuse rating above 20 amps. The wire size is what determines the fuse rating. #14 wire is protected by a 15 amp fuse; #12 wire is protected by a 20 amp fuse.
Since there is no provision for protection of the heavy gauge wires from the battery and charge circuit from the TV. Additional 30 amp fuses in line with these wires is recommended. Modern converters have crow bar protection. As long as the wires from the converter to the fuse panel are rated for at least the max output (in amps) of the converter those wires are protected.
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Old 02-09-2016, 07:22 AM   #6
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Most of the current wiring appears to be a mix of #14 and #12 wire. Is there any problem with using a 15 amp BUS fuse on these?

Can the old "short stop" breakers/fuses be reset? Or, once tripped, do they need replaced?
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:45 AM   #7
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Not sure about your particular set up but in my 93 there are similar looking breakers that have a very small reset button.
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
There should be no circuit in your coach that requires a fuse rating above 20 amps. The wire size is what determines the fuse rating. #14 wire is protected by a 15 amp fuse; #12 wire is protected by a 20 amp fuse.
Though this is a typical approach for home wiring, 12v RV wiring may use smaller or larger fuses.

My recommendation would be to use a fuse for each circuit that matches the rating of the circuit breaker that is being used now for that circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonsherman View Post
Can the old "short stop" breakers/fuses be reset? Or, once tripped, do they need replaced?
The breakers you have are thermal self-resetting breakers. They will reset by themselves after cooling for a period of time.
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:37 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jim & Susan View Post
I simply duplicated the connections and fuse sizes that were on the old Univolt panel. I'm not an engineer, but I figured an engineer must have designed that layout back in '73.
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Old 02-09-2016, 02:01 PM   #10
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Fuse panel

I just upgraded my fuse panel on my 1977 27' overlander and it looks like the same one I used. I did not change the fuse size and went with factory specs and I'm very happy to say no problems at all. One thing that will help is upgrading a lot of lights to LED it helps the electrical loads on the existing system.
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Old 02-09-2016, 02:03 PM   #11
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Best upgrade by a long shot. ��
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Old 02-09-2016, 02:35 PM   #12
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Yes. All lights are LED.

Thanks for all the input. I plan to match up the new-Bus-Fuse amps with the old circuit breakers in the next week or so. I'll keep you posted.
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Old 02-09-2016, 04:11 PM   #13
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In the 76 AS they used 2 50 amp 32 volt buss fuses in hot side and 1 50 amp 32 volt fuse in ground wire. These are in battery connections at fuse panel. When I replaced old univolt w/converter kept fuse panel, changed nothing, only circuit that does not work is power on light that can be made to work but not worth effort, as I use blue night lite plugged into 110 outlet, and I like as I can see it when hooking up elec. looking into back widow without going into over head cab. to see if power is on.
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Old 02-10-2016, 06:12 AM   #14
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I've got a similar fuse panel, works well. When I upgraded the PO's install, I added a big knife switch to be able to isolate the batteries. I also added a master fuse, a 50 amp as I recall, one of big fuses and holders that the guys with the boom-box cars use. Good time to wire in an ammeter, if you don't have one hooked up already.

Having the extra slots is great, maybe run a few more wires to put some things on different circuits? Makes it easier to isolate a fault, better to have a few lights go out rather than all of them!

I store spare fuses in the unused slots, no fumbling around in the dark!
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