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Old 05-31-2021, 07:25 AM   #1
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2017 27' International
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Antes Fort , Pennsylvania
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Toilet won't shut off

The water keeps running. I tried 'snapping' the foot pedal several times but the water keeps running. I have the water shut off for now and the black tank drain valve open. Never had this problem before unless there was a piece of paper stuck in the whatchamacallit which kept the foot pedal slightly depressed. Not the case now. Help!
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Old 05-31-2021, 07:28 AM   #2
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Is the toilet not holding water? or Is the water running continuously? These are separate issues.
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Old 05-31-2021, 07:35 AM   #3
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You'll need to replace the valve assembly. About a $20 part. Shut off the water at the toilet or it will overflow.


Sjohn
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Old 05-31-2021, 11:26 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexAirS View Post
You'll need to replace the valve assembly. About a $20 part. Shut off the water at the toilet or it will overflow.


Sjohn
Thanks. Where do I get the valve assembly?
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Old 05-31-2021, 11:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet View Post
Is the toilet not holding water? or Is the water running continuously? These are separate issues.
Thanks. The bowl fills because the water won't stop filling it. I have the water turned off now of course.
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Old 05-31-2021, 11:55 AM   #6
CRH
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Search for a "toilet flush valve" for your model of toilet. I replaced one twice on my Thetford Aqua Magic.
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Old 05-31-2021, 12:05 PM   #7
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Search your paperwork for the toilet model, Amazon very likely has what you need. Also, I have found YouTube a good resource for how to. Good Luck
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Old 06-01-2021, 04:56 AM   #8
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So as of this morning, it is 'working' again. The water has stopped running. I am thinking there may have been some material preventing the full closure of the plate that covers the entrance to the drain, which seems to be some kind of switch, thus keeping the water flowing. I should probably order a new valve anyways, or maybe even an entire new toilet. A new toilet because it appears that I would have to remove the old toilet just to replace any malfunctioning valve assembly. A new toilet would be an easier overall job. Meanwhile I am keeping the water intake valve closed to prevent any possible 'scatostrophe' while I am away from the trailer.
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Old 06-01-2021, 07:31 AM   #9
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Waco , Texas
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Just replaced the flush valve on mine two weeks ago. Apparently some rough interstate roads caused a hairline crack and the valve started leaking when connected to high pressure city water. Their cheap and easy to remove and to install, and recommend everyone carry a backup just in case an emergency replacement is needed. Utube has short installation instructions.

The sticky valve issue your experiencing could be signs it's about to fail.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0859K8SJ5...E6WJ25Z8JM5T7F
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:44 AM   #10
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2015 28' Flying Cloud
Box Elder , South Dakota
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Unless your toilet is unique and has some unusual switches, there's only the valve in the back of the toilet which is operated by the foot pedal. And, in my experience they don't last very long, especially if they're not fully drained during winterizing. They're pretty simple little devices, though the Beech Lane seems to be pretty well engineered--I actually need to order a new spare and that's the one I'm going to get! It's a few dollars more than what I paid in the past, but I like the peace of mind--and the US-based support.

Replacing them is not impossible, but it is kind of difficult, especially as we mature and find ourselves a little less flexible. One problem I had in the beginning was that instead of using a radiator hose clamp on one of the connections the factory used a PEX ring which had to be cut off with a Dremel tool (another handy little tool to have in the Airstream--knock-offs can be purchased inexpensively on Amazon and since they won't get used very often they will last a long time). I just then replaced the PEX ring with a radiator hose clamp and that problem went away.

I haven't looked at YouTube for video(s) on changing the toilet valve on a Dometic RV toilet, but it would be a huge surprise if there's not 20 or so on the topic (some better than others).

By the way, when I winterized, I blow out my lines with compressed air, and then shut off the supply valve to the toilet valve, put a hand towel under the toilet valve and loosen the large radiator hose clamp and pull the hose from the valve and let all water drain out of the hose (there WILL BE a small amount) and from the toilet valve. I am always surprised by how much water remains in that low point after blowing it out...! And, it's a simple little task that takes less than 5 minutes. I also leave the connection open during the winter, and just make it back up when getting ready for our first outing in the Spring. Haven't "lost" a toilet valve in two years now!

Again, yes it is in a difficult to get to and see position, but it's not impossible. If you can find videos it will make it much easier as you will know what you're looking at and doing.
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Old 06-02-2021, 03:23 PM   #11
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Livermore , California
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There is a sticker on the pedestal of the toilet, mine is on the right hand side as you look down at the bowl. This sticker has the model number and serial number and can guide the parts folks at Camping World or anyplace else to the right valve for your situation.
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