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Old 02-28-2019, 04:38 PM   #1
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toilet seals and model ID?

Hi folks. We just bought our first AS, it is a 76 Ambassador 29t/rb. We borrowed this unit last summer in exchange for me making some needed repairs. A/C had a burnt wire or 2 so wouldn't work. Works now though. And had to repair a water line that split do to freezing, will switch it all to pex some time this year. Now to my needed info, where if I can get a new rubber seal for the slide flap in toilet and how easy is to replace? Also how do I know what make and model of doodoo catcher(toilet) do I have in my bathroom? Thank you in advance for any and all information.
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:11 PM   #2
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My thought is to just replace the toilet with one you like. I have done that in both my trailers. One reason is that I was not sure of getting the correct seal kit and I had to remove the toilet anyway.
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Old 02-28-2019, 07:00 PM   #3
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So you have to pull the entire toilet just to replace the seal for the flap operated by the foot pedal? I think I can deal with it seeping water into the black tank when instead of leaving some in the bowl area. Just add some before we sit down
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Old 02-28-2019, 07:54 PM   #4
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toilet seals and model ID?

Not that complicated.Takes less than 20 mins to remove.When u install the new one make sure when u winterize it pour vegetable oil in it as the RV antifreeze causes the seal to dry out and fail.
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Old 02-28-2019, 08:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
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<<snip>> Now to my needed info, where if I can get a new rubber seal for the slide flap in toilet and how easy is to replace? Also how do I know what make and model of doodoo catcher(toilet) do I have in my bathroom? Thank you in advance for any and all information.
The toilet in my trailer has a nameplate beneath the toilet seat near the back of the toilet that has a brand and model number. With that info I was able to pick up a kit with complete gaskets and seals at Out of Doors Mart.

The first time I did a toilet rebuild it took me about 4 hours, but the next time less than an hour.
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Old 02-28-2019, 08:20 PM   #6
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you can download a manual here>
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...-manual-56.pdf

some other interesting documents>
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...-manual-56.pdf
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...ations-277.pdf
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Old 02-28-2019, 09:56 PM   #7
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Moflash, I don't really want to put a new toilet it, I'm an old school type of person. "If it can be repaired, don't throw it just repair it" type of person.

A W WARN, I have 2 owner/service manuals for my Ambass and I already printed off the one at the bottom link you shared I also printed of the one that told the price.. But do appreciate it though.

Is there some you can use to soften the seal back up some. I mean mine isn't hard or cracked any just don't seal tight to the slide flap completely is all. I reached down in the hole to see if the seal was still pliable and it is. Yes I had rubber gloves on when I did it.
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Old 03-01-2019, 06:28 AM   #8
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I use silicone grease to keep the toilet blade seal flexible and unstuck. (liberal application to blade edge and seal when I winterize)
I get it at Lowes in the plumbing section.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Silicone-Grease/50236505

Vegetable oil will also keep the seal supple.

I use this same silicone grease on the window and door gaskets to keep them from sticking. (very light application with Q-tip as needed)

ps:
Silicone grease gets on anything and everything and makes it slick. I keep the container inside a shallow glass jar with a screw on sealed lid so that I do not have accidental spills. One container has lasted 5+years, and still have half of it.
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Old 03-01-2019, 06:49 AM   #9
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Alan, Thanks again and good to know. I was taught to use silicone spray on door seals on cars to keep them supple just didn't think to use something like that in this case.
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Old 03-01-2019, 10:04 AM   #10
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I'd put a new water valve on it too while I have it apart. If If its an old plastic pot, the plastic will start to break down and you will risk breaking/stripping the screw holes that hold the flapper in place. If it's a china unit, its worth fixing.
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Old 03-01-2019, 12:48 PM   #11
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So you have to pull the entire toilet just to replace the seal for the flap operated by the foot pedal? I think I can deal with it seeping water into the black tank when instead of leaving some in the bowl area. Just add some before we sit down
You think that now, but once the water leaks out of the bowl, the black tank fumes leak in... The Airstream won't smell very good on a hot summer day from my first hand experience

I too prefer to repair instead of replace, but my 40 year old plastic toilet needed new seals, if I hadn't switched to composting, I would have just replaced it.

The bright side is it's pretty easy to remove and reinstall the toilet
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Old 03-01-2019, 01:09 PM   #12
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How much does a new stink throne cost though? I'm working with a limited budget right now and just wanting to fix things that can be repaired and not replaced. FYI, the reason I have a lot of time to work on it is because I was disabled 10 yrs ago and have a limited amount I can spend on it at a time without planning for big purchases, like the A/C or axles.
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Old 03-01-2019, 04:54 PM   #13
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The toilet bowl valve leaks on my 93. So far no big odor problem.

A new toilet will cost $175 to $200 for plastic. Ceramic a little more.
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Old 03-02-2019, 07:34 AM   #14
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Alan, Thanks again and good to know. I was taught to use silicone spray on door seals on cars to keep them supple just didn't think to use something like that in this case.
It is possible the seal will start working again when/if it becomes supple. Before I started using the silicone the seal would leak the first trip in spring. After being wet for a few days it would hold water again.

Have you tried lubricant yet?
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Old 03-02-2019, 12:16 PM   #15
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Alan, not yet I haven't tried lubricating it yet. Just brought it home on Tuesday. I to have silicone spray lubricant that I could spray down in it in the next few days. Didn't think about using anything like that last year when I discovered the problem.
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:13 PM   #16
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Some of the silicone sprays have a petroleum base. Petroleum products could be harmful to the seal on the toilet flapper and also harmful to the seal on the waste tank dump valve.

Another thing you might check; toilet paper and other debris can build up in the groove and prevent the toilet valve from completely closing.

Thetford makes a tool to clean the groove the flapper slides in It is Thetford part number 33011. It is a bent long shank flat screwdriver that has been ground flatter than a normal screwdriver so it will fit into the groove. I made myself one out of an old worn out screwdriver I already had.
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:55 PM   #17
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Alan, I will look at the can I have and see if it is petroleum based. As for the special tool, I like the idea of the old screwdriver bet 90 degrees. I don't have a long shank one like that but I do have one that was about 6" long before someone bent it 90 degrees and it has a fairly thin blade. It's thin enough I was able to use it to rebuild the tranny on TW back at Thanksgiving. I also have a bunch of old wire hangers that I could probably use to make a groove hook out of, courtesy of the dry cleaners after our house fire a year ago.
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:59 PM   #18
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Alan, Also I like that TW of yours. Mine is an '89 GMC 1500 with a 5.7 out of a '93 Caddy Fleetwood.
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Old 03-02-2019, 08:13 PM   #19
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Alan, I will look at the can I have and see if it is petroleum based. As for the special tool, I like the idea of the old screwdriver bet 90 degrees. I don't have a long shank one like that but I do have one that was about 6" long before someone bent it 90 degrees and it has a fairly thin blade. It's thin enough I was able to use it to rebuild the tranny on TW back at Thanksgiving. I also have a bunch of old wire hangers that I could probably use to make a groove hook out of, courtesy of the dry cleaners after our house fire a year ago.
The bent end of the screwdriver needs to be at least 2 or 3 inches long in order to reach the flapper pivot point where the debris will collect. There is an instruction sheet with the tool that shows the point the tool should be inserted and the direction the tool needs to rotate to remove the debris.

https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...crewdriver.pdf

If you cut a clothes hanger, smooth the edges so that it does not cut/damage the seal.

Don't drop the tool! It is not easy to get back out of the tank. (experience )

ps:
When I said to not use "petroleum" based silicone, I should have said "solvent" based. I think most silicone sprays and/or greases will have some petroleum products included. Silicone that includes a solvent that will harm neoprene, polyethylene, PVC, or ABS is the thing to avoid.
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