Shower door off kilter

[FlyingCloud7]

My glass shower door in my 25’ Flying cloud won’t open or close unless you pick the door up to clear the bottom frame. Has anyone had this happen and if so Did you find a fix?
Rich

[lsbrodsky]

There are quite a few threads on this subject if you do a search. Many people have glued or placed a plastic or al block at the bottom of the hinged side to address this issue.
Larry

[pmclemore]

The screw at the top left (from the inside) corner of mine broke - it is very small. Check yours. If it is, replace it and see if you can square up the door.

Pat

[FlyingCloud7]

Thanks. Appreciate the help.

[dsatwork]

One time it was the strip seal at the bottom coming off and getting caught as you open the door.

[Gleverett]

Mine was doing the same thing. Recent visit to JC and they fixed the door. I think they put some new screws in it.

[PCJ]

We had that problem but it turned out we were not level, good since

[Hermes]

There have been solutions proposed, including one from Airstream which is a kit where a plastic shim is installed (glued or screwed) under left bottom of the door. The door is thus no longer supported by its hinge; it rubs on the shim that supports it.

In my humble view, this is addressing the symptom not the problem. The reason the door is dragging (at least it was in my unit) is that the aluminum door frame is no longer solidly fixed to the wooden (3/4" laminated plywood) structure to which the door frame was attached when the unit was built. In my unit, there was a 1/4" displacement (blue arrow in the picture). But if you pressed the aluminum frame against its wooden structure, the door bottom no longer dragged!

The solution was to drill, at an angle (see picture) the aluminum frame (1/2" from the top) and 2" into the laminated plywood, and screw in a 3" wood screw covered with polyurethane construction adhesive. This lubricates the screw as it bores into the plywood and when hardened, will bond and make sure the screw stays in place.

The angle of entry of the 3" screw gives is further strength. When screwing the 3" screw, it solidly positioned the aluminum frame in its place, thereby raising the bottom right corner of the door, resulting in an even 1/4" clearance from left to right. And the door is now rock solid.

[emelaich01]

Before starting, make sure your shower door is square by measuring diagonally, corner to corner.
While repairing a leak a the threshold, we found that the door had actually sagged a bit either due to our mishandling or stored in the Texas heat. The plastic strips that hold the glass in the aluminum channel may slip a little causing all kinds of mischief.
We slipped them off and repositioned, tapping them back in place with a dead blow hammer nd a wood block.
Now, when stored or traveling, we put a thin, rubber piece between the threshold and door edge and no problems in the past two years.

[FlyingCloud7]

Just took it into the Airstream dealer in Portland and they want over $450 in parts, plus labor to replace the whole door. Said I'd deal with it the way it was and try something else. Ugh!

[Silverbee]

Here is a quick, cheap work around until you decide if you want something more permanent.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f16...or-159112.html

The plastic washer comes out occasionally but stays in pretty good if you use some clear silicone caulking.

[FlyingCloud7]

Thanks. I’ll give it a shot and see if we can salvage this thing.

[Jonmad]

Originally Posted by FlyingCloud7

Thanks. I’ll give it a shot and see if we can salvage this thing.

If you call Jackson Center they will send you a shim kit. It consists of a half inch piece of plexiglass for under the hinge side of the door and a stainless steel screw. In my case the door is out of square. probably from bouncing down the road. I also put a shim under the handle side to give support while driving. Hope this helps. Have a blessed day everyone.

[jcwall]

We had this problem and I tried everything to fix it. I got a hold of the manufacturer and they sent me some new parts and I completely rebuilt the door. It lasted a while. I tried every possible shim. I bought a cutting board and cut it into different shapes. The sweep at the bottom wouldn’t last at all. Finally took the three screws out of the jam side, raised the whole jam about 3/8 of an inch, drilled three new holes and secured with the screws. Took about 10 minutes. Knock on wood, but it’s been perfect ever since.

[Hermes]

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

There are quite a few threads on this subject if you do a search. Many people have glued or placed a plastic or al block at the bottom of the hinged side to address this issue.
Larry

I cut, grooved and glued (silicon) a hard plastic block (cut from a white plastic cutting board) to support the hinge side of the door. But over time, that is not enough.

When traveling, the weight of the glass door is such that keeps pulling the door down as the trailer "bounces" down the road, so I added another support (a wooden clothes pin with a sheet metal wrap for durability) that I slide in the bottom door track to support the other side of the door where the curved frame handle is.

This way both sides of the door are solidly supported and when I remove the travel support when we set up camp, the door swings nicely. It's been holding up for the last 2 years with lots of miles.

And as mentioned, there have been many threads on the topic, and thankfully for us after 6 years, it's now a solved issue.