replacing tub and sink in order

[bwaysteve]

I am preparing to reassemble my 65 Ambassador interior.Is it possible to install the shower tub and sink last or must everything be reassembled in order?Perhaps I could reinstall the street side interior,then the bath and move forward.I have not rehabed the fiberlass yet,but I want to continue working.

[Lance M]

Steve,
I'm not near reassembly yet, but when I took Abby apart I started with the rear and went forward. First the toilet then the tub/shower, vanity, the two closets then the twin bunks. They all fit out the door, so I guess it is possible to reinstall the tub and shower last. I originally didn't plan to remove the twin bunks so that's why I started from the rear and moved forward. I have read that AS assembles the interiors from the rear forward so I guess I kinda did it backwards. What are you using to rehab the tub/shower?

[SilverHoot]

I'm also interested in what you are using to rehab the tub/shower/sink as I will doing the same soon. Looked at some kits for this purpose and they were real pricey. Could almost buy new ..... I want to do the end cap to match.

[68 TWind]

When you reinstall the tub you will need a lot of "wiggle room". I would suggest you put it in first and then work your way forward with the walls and cabinets. Toilet can go in last as it is no big deal assuming you have the flange mounted on the floor. One suggestion is that you need to think through water connections before you fasten stuff down. It is no fun having to take something out that you spent a couple of hours installing because you can't get a wrench on a fitting, how do I know this?

Hoot, I used two part tub and tile epoxy paint that I got from Sherwin Williams (XIM Tile Doc). It says you can brush it but I had bad results with that on a hidden part of the sink. I used the Preval spray kit (basically you make your own rattle can, get it at NAPA). I did not have a good paint gun and this was good work around. You will have to thin the mixture just a little but the instruction are very clear on what solvents to use. Word of caution, buy and use a high quality respirator with carbon filters for VOC's, The epoxy paint fumes are wicked. If you do have a run or make a mistake you can let it dry a few days and wet sand the run and then apply another light coat. I was very happy with the results.

[ts8501]

I agree with needing much wiggle room to work, based on how difficult it was to get the sink/tub combination out. This is the tub/sink/toilet combination unit that is in our '64 and '65 models ('66 as well). I plan to put them back in first, although I need to think through whether the street-side closet needs to go back in first. The "kick plate" around the tub and toilet can wait, and allow the room you will need to work on the sewer and water lines.

[Bowmans]

I second "68 TWind". We used TileDoc as well on ours and happy with the results. You need to spray this stuff. It will dry up a brush in very short order. We sprayed outside so fumes weren't bad but the bugs seem to love it so our finish was a little more "natural" than we wanted.

[bwaysteve]

I have decided to install the street side complete as it will allow me to put the back cabinet in 1st and do all my wiring hookup.This should still give me room to do the shower sink next since I still need to repair the fiberglass and don't want to stop working.

[star kitty]

I hired a professional bathroom re-finisher to re-paint it in place. It was $600 but well worth it. He spent a day prepping and a half day spraying it. I think he used a low pressure, high volume sprayer. Three coats for good coverage.

More photos on my blog below.

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by star kitty

I hired a professional bathroom re-finisher to re-paint it in place. It was $600 but well worth it. He spent a day prepping and a half day spraying it. I think he used a low pressure, high volume sprayer. Three coats for good coverage.

More photos on my blog below.

Whoa! That turned out nice!