Leak Behind Shower from Hose.

[Pthorpe4080]

I found a leak yesterday behind the the shower where the hose attaches through the shower wall. It only happens when the the shower main valve is on and the the shower head valve is closed. I have a 2018 22 sport.
It’s easily accessed. I’m sure under warranty but don’t want to wait for ever to get it fixed by dealer. Would you do it yourself or take to dealer? I think I could come up with a better solution. See pics!

[NoResults]

I think you just answered your own question. Most dealers are always behind. Long wait, distance to dealer etc. Take a look yourself first.



Just my 2 cents. Dave

[AirstreamInc]

Originally Posted by Pthorpe4080

I found a leak yesterday behind the the shower where the hose attaches through the shower wall. It only happens when the the shower main valve is on and the the shower head valve is closed. I have a 2018 22 sport.
It’s easily accessed. I’m sure under warranty but don’t want to wait for ever to get it fixed by dealer. Would you do it yourself or take to dealer? I think I could come up with a better solution. See pics! Attachment 336522Attachment 336523

Hi Pthorpe4080,*

We're very sorry to learn about your leak. If you need assistance, please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team.

You can also reach Airstream Customer Service and Technical Support at*customer_support@airstream.com*

Thank you.*

[ROBERT CROSS]

We noticed the same leak the first time we turned the shower on,(at home when I did a real PDI)👎,...our supply line was too short...say hello to Home Depot. I used a flexible supply line, ie sink, instead of the pex that they couldn't cut to the proper length.

From your photo it appears a quality install, but like the work/sealing on the roof, it's OOSOOM, never to be seen again🥴

Bob
🇺🇸

[waninae39]

we had the SAME leak in out as22FB

we got it fixed by CANAM in London

[Bill M.]

I would fix it. But I already have the PEX crimpers.

[Pthorpe4080]

[Thanks, the last digits of vin are 541044
Peter Thorpe
51 Whitlock Dr SW
Marietta Ga 30064
770-527-3207
Pthorpe007@gmail.com

Originally Posted by AirstreamInc

Hi Pthorpe4080,*

We're very sorry to learn about your leak. If you need assistance, please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team.

You can also reach Airstream Customer Service and Technical Support at*customer_support@airstream.com*

Thank you.*

[Papatango]

in our 2006 25FB, I discovered a pinhole leak in the PEX in just that area last year. It gave me a good excuse to buy crimpers. It is a slightly awkward area to work in, but a satisfying do it yourself plumbing job.



If your dealer doesn't take care of, we'll support you here!


-Paige

[Kevinshortnh]

We had a similar issue that was fixed by our dealer the morning after we took delivery. (We spent our first night at the dealer, Pete's RV in Vermont.) It seems that the wood shim was a little too thick, so not enough pipe threads were tightened to prevent leakage. Their solution was to make a thinner shim so they could get enough pipe thread twists to prevent leakage.

[rucos]

If I read your post correct it is at the wall joint not the PEX fitting??..... if pex I prefer the solid metal rings ....if wall is the screw fitting just loose??

[rucos]

I would do it ...first clean off excess caulk and determine is it the pet joint or screw joint that the actual water is leaking from ....then you can figure for sure what's to do.

[CruizinDux]

FWIW, I had a similar situation at my FW connection. Mid trip once i noticed water pouring out if the belly pan under the fw/bw connection. After some investigation, it turns out (so to speak) that the connection was loose...almost a whole turn on the male thumb connector. The BW was a bit loose too but not enough to leak. Now i check all accessible connections at the start of each trip.

B

[GlasairIIS]

I’m currently in the process of replacing that same PEX supply line on my 2012 23D model. NOT EASY TO ACCESS by the way.... Looks like whoever installed it cut the line too short, so it was in a bind between the valve and the supply port for the shower hose. Why didn’t Airstream provide an access port to get to the shower supply lines?? On the 23D you have remove the retractable shower door as well as the wall alongside the toilet (which is caulked to the fiberglass shower itself). BTW, mine had that same glob of sealant around the two wooden spacers. Why do they use parts (wooden spacers in this case) on something that could leak and rot the wood? UGH!!

[RFP]

Originally Posted by GlasairIIS

I’m currently in the process of replacing that same PEX supply line on my 2012 23D model. NOT EASY TO ACCESS by the way.... Looks like whoever installed it cut the line too short, so it was in a bind between the valve and the supply port for the shower hose. Why didn’t Airstream provide an access port to get to the shower supply lines?? On the 23D you have remove the retractable shower door as well as the wall alongside the toilet (which is caulked to the fiberglass shower itself). BTW, mine had that same glob of sealant around the two wooden spacers. Why do they use parts (wooden spacers in this case) on something that could leak and rot the wood? UGH!!

Could you possibly please post a photo or two of that area? I would love to know exactly how that area is put together. Thanks!

[GlasairIIS]

Here’s a couple photos. Pull the screws from inside the shower that hold fiberglass shower to the partial wall adjacent to toilet. There are a couple down by the toilet as well. Do NOT try to remove the shower door housing or frame prior to removing the partial wall. Use a putty knife to separate the metal shower door housing from the partial wall. Once the partial wall is out of the way, you can remove the shower door housing and the upper track. Do NOT remove the lower shower door track as this is not necessary to remove the shower door housing or partial wall.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by GlasairIIS

Here’s a couple photos. ( snip )

Thanks for the photos, very helpful. I don't have a problem in there, but it's good to have thin info just in case. It looks like a serious project, but not terrible. Thanks again, I wish you well as you progress.

[frankos]

I have a 33' 1995 Landyacht. The leak is not accessable behind the wall. I'm hoping I won't have to cut into it, any ideas? FrankO

[GrandStream]

Originally Posted by GlasairIIS

Here’s a couple photos. Pull the screws from inside the shower that hold fiberglass shower to the partial wall adjacent to toilet. There are a couple down by the toilet as well. Do NOT try to remove the shower door housing or frame prior to removing the partial wall. Use a putty knife to separate the metal shower door housing from the partial wall. Once the partial wall is out of the way, you can remove the shower door housing and the upper track. Do NOT remove the lower shower door track as this is not necessary to remove the shower door housing or partial wall.

Thank you for the pictures! I've excavated the site to be in the same state as your picture. My leak is where the fitting and valve are before the PEX running from valve to wall junction for the hose. I can more or less access the Moen mixing valve by pulling it toward the toilet, but haven't figured out the best way to find space to remove the pvc/plastic elbow that is screwed into the valve. Curious if you removed any fittings on the valve side and how you did so. Do I just have to figure out a way to cut the PEX and then try to unscrew the elbow from the valve? There's so little room and the space is hard to get a purchase on anything to remove this fitting. Once I get past this, curious what you used to replace this segment of PEX from the valve to the shower hose connection at the shower wall?

Thanks in advance for any advice!!

[GlasairIIS]

GrandStream,
It’s been a while since I performed that repair, so my memory is a bit fuzzy. I’ll attach a photo that shows the fitting that I found to be cracked. It attached to the white colored PEX on the right side of the valve. Seems like I found a replacement at Home Depot where I also bought the PEX clamps, a section of tubing and rented the PEX crimper. I’m pretty sure I used a cut-off wheel to cut the PEX clamp at the lower end, allowing me to save the 90 degree elbow down below the valve. I then cut the PEX right below the elbow that screws into the valve and then unscrewed the cracked fitting. Of course, wrap the new fitting with some teflon tape and screw it into the valve before attaching the new length of PEX line. I recall it being tight, but doable. I had to flex the whole valve assembly and lines out beside the toilet to get it crimped. I did NOT use those Sharkbite fittings, but they may work fine. I’ve just never used them. I hope this info is helpful. Good Luck!!

EDIT: I think I lied to you. Reading my prior post reminded me that the fitting that was cracked on mine was the supply line from the bottom of the valve to the shower feed line. Seems like I still had to cut the PEX off at the elbow on the valve so that I could unscrew the cracked fitting. If your cracked fitting is in the white line fitting, it shouldn’t be too difficult, but if its in the red line on the far side,,, well that might be another story. You may have to cut that white line as I falsely described above, to give you enough flexibility in the assembly to crimp the red line to your new fitting at the valve, then replace the white section of PEX previously sacrificed. Just my thoughts. I hope I’m being helpful.