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06-10-2013, 08:28 AM
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#1
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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1973 Argosy shower valve questions
I hear, and see evidence of a leak, coming from my shower " mixer ". From what I see, and have read, the only way to repair, or replace the valve is to take apart the shower wall, ( maybe take out the toilet ). Is this true???? Is this a bad design??? Then I noticed an exterior patch where the signal lights are. I don't have the tail light assembly than runs across the rear of the trailer ( PO might have had the same problem? ). Was one of the reasons for the tail light assembly, is to have access to the rear bath plumbing.
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06-10-2013, 08:34 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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Also.....
The copper pipes running to the shower appear to be about 3/8 inch. I don't know what is stock. I want to know what kind of fittings, and pipe I will need. I may want to replace with pex but I don't have any experience with the 3/8 ( ??)
pipe, which I will need to connect to at some place, HELP!!!!!!! please????
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06-10-2013, 10:13 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 503
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It's not necessarily a "bad" design, it just is fit into a really tight space. I had basically the same issue. Here's a discussion on the subject
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f446...er-105224.html
I'm at the point where I'm getting ready to put it back together and want to use a standard residential shower valve. Right now I'm trying to figure out if it will fit without too much modification. It's tricky. the alternative is to use this Chrome Two Handle Shower Valve with Vacuum Breaker
The tail light assembly has nothing to do with your shower. The PO probably removed it because it was cracked and they couldn't repair it - a common problem with Argosy trailers I understand. I'd be interested in seeing a photo of the tail lights you have as I'm probably going to change out mine.
Good luck
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06-10-2013, 11:40 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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Thanks for responding Dryfly
I have deduced that the old tail light assembly was damaged. I see a where bondo filler was used to cover up damage on the exterior and bent molding on the inside, on the driver side of the trailer. Now, there is a square patch, riveted in on both sides behind the tail lights. The good news is that the patch is right behind the shower valve controls. That lead me to believe that the placement was done on purpose, originally. Seems like just a lucky coincidence.
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06-10-2013, 11:42 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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another question...
I need to seal the patch when I reinstall the patch, I know not to use silicone, but I would like to use white caulk, as my trailer is white. would Alex be OK??
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06-10-2013, 12:07 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave
I need to seal the patch when I reinstall the patch, I know not to use silicone, but I would like to use white caulk, as my trailer is white. would Alex be OK??
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No, Alex won't hold up. I think you should use a polyurethane. General consensus is that Trempro 635 is one of the best. I've found it at Fastenal stores. If they don't have it they can get it in a day or two.
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06-11-2013, 07:42 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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More fun
The copper supply lines to my nearing my bathroom go down to 3/8 ", but at the tee, they change to 1/4 " to go to the shower. The 1/4 " doesn't feel like the semi flexable copper that is used for fridge ice makers. I am guessing that the 1/4 pipe was easier to bend around the shower surround that extends behind the toilet. So...no Sharkbites fittings are available. I don't have the pex tools for 1/4. (don't no if that animal exists) I may end up taking a feed for the shower nearer to the water heater where plumbing was already changed to pex.
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07-15-2013, 08:04 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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I lucked out this time........
I took off the patch holding the tail light that was right behind the shower valve. Using my new Harbor Freight multi tool, and from the outside of the trailer,I cut out a small piece of the inner skin. I hooked up to city water, so the leak would be more noticeable. BINGO...the leak was clearly visible, coming from the cracked, grey plastic, 90 degree elbow, coming right off of the shower valve. ( no hidden, split pipes to deal with )
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07-15-2013, 08:13 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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Lucked out again......
When screwing in a 90 degree fitting, you just have to hope, that the fitting gets tight, when it is aligned with the pipe that it is going to be attached to. Wally's hand must have been on my shoulder, as I put just the right amount of teflon tape on the threads. ( I am NOT a plumber, and I DON"T play one on TV )
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07-15-2013, 08:22 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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Sorry...to most of you
I just realized how semi- useless this info is to most of you. It will only help Argosy owners that have a shower valve problem, AND have already lost their original tail light assembly. But I will be a hero to one or two Argosy owners....someday.
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04-05-2021, 08:43 PM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
1972 Argosy 20
Denver
, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 17
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Well I might be in the same situation! I am hoping to not have to cut in from my tail lights :/
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