Weld or replace a cracked water heater on 2011 Sport 16?

[lemley]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Save the old sensors, board and ignitor stuff. Might be good for someone else someday.

This is a very good piece of advice. I wish I’d done that on my water heater replacements. It’s always easier to diagnose when you have a working spare.

[beckspeed]

Ok testing the rest of the system for leaks with water heater in bypass. I filled the water tank about half way and turned on the pump.

Pump holds steady and doesn’t turn on unless I open a faucet.

Sink has water coming out of both hot and cold. Drain has no leaks. All good here.

Toilet has inlet water all good here. Does it have a P trap I should check or does it dump straight to the black tank?

Shower works great on cold. It looks like the P trap is holding water.

When I turn the shower hot faucet I should get cold water (right?) I only get a little pressure and the pump cycles on-and-off every second or so, only a trickle coming out of the shower head. I don’t see where the water is going? If anywhere.

Ideas?

Thanks!

[GCinSC2]

Shower, check for debris in strainer? Possibly depending on model the valve might have some schmutz in it. Yeah, that's a real word I just checked.

[beckspeed]

I’ve pulled the shower hose and nozzle apart, I don’t see a clogged strainer.

Faucet runs fine when I turn the “cold” knob, on the left from bathroom door. This part of the faucet has a red pen line coming in from below. The “hot” side of the faucet, right from bathroom door, has a white pex line coming to it and a trickle of water still. This is on both city and pump water.

This has to be a bypass issue. Right? Or a bad faucet? Does it have a wax safety valve or something?

[beckspeed]

to clarify:

I'm in water heater bypass.

I have water pressure out of the shower when I turn the knob on the left. The handle is marked "Cold" but it has a red Pex line coming to it.

I have very low water pressure from the knob marked "Hot" on the right which has a white Pex line coming into it.

The white line seems to T off of the line from the toilet which is flowing fine.

I'm stumped.

[Silvr_Bullet]

The ‘H’ and ‘C’ buttons that pop off, they could have been swapped, if you see red pex that should indicate a hot water line. The white pex that tees off to the toilet is Cold Water. Otherwise i dam not understanding the problem, I am sorry my fault.

[crispyboy]

Several years ago my sister purchased a used 2007 Airstream. In the process of de-winterizing the trailer I filled the water system and bleed off the air. I was stumped as I was only getting a trickle of water at the faucets. I finally figured out that the previous owner never cleaned the mineral deposits from the hot water tank. Some of the mninerals became loose and clogged each faucet. I spent the remainder of the afternoon pulling each faucet apart and cleaning the trapped particles. It is important to periodically wash out the hot water tank.

[beckspeed]

Sorry Silvr_Bullet - I know my post was unclear.

To recap - the HW tank cracked so I put the unit in bypass.

I was pressurizing the system to look for additional leaks and everything appears to be ok. I have cold water everywhere - including from the both Cold and Hot faucett on the kitchen sink.

My only issue is this: The shower faucet only produces water from the Hot side (red Pex feed line - marked C on handle) - the Cold side (white pex - H handle) has a trickle.

This MUST be a bad / clogged faucet? because the toilet supply line, which is 12" away works fine.

My only alternative thought is that putting the system in bypass only sends water on the hot side to the bathroom. this cant be true because the toilet has water pressure.

[Silvr_Bullet]

My 2017 has a Delta two handle faucet, very basic as can be. The model faucet has been around a very long time, so it may be what you have or similar. It may be that the cartridge on the side with poor supply may be damaged, it easy to pull it out ( take some photos for reassembly ) take the cartridge to Lowe’s etc. , replace the whole cartridge, it’s not terribly expensive, in the Airstream world it’s pennies. From what you’re describing this may be the problem.

[Brutarian]

FWIW, I welded my tank. Straight forward aluminum weld but my split caused by improper winterization. It wasn’t at a fitting.

[dgsteele]

FYI my tank cracked caused by leaving it on with no water in it.

[dznf0g]

I was looking up a tig welder in my area for another repair on my AS, and look what is featured on his homepage.

http://www.mikeswelding2180.com/

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by beckspeed

We JUST got our 2011 Sport 16 and discovered a crack in the water heater tank while prepping for our first excursion.

I'm a welder, so my first thought is to just pull it, and weld this up. [photo attached]

I can only see a tiny bit of the aluminum showing, but I was wondering if anyone has has success welding these? Is there a liner on the inside of the tank or is it straight aluminum?

If I need to replace, does anyone have thoughts on upgrading to tankless?
For reference the Atwood part is G6a-8e.

Thanks

Are you comfortable weldnig on Aluminum pressure vessel?

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Are you comfortable weldnig on Aluminum pressure vessel?

I wouldn't be...but I'm not an experienced welder. However, the tank halves are welded together at the factory, so I'd think a qualified, experienced welder could, successfully.

[richard5933]

One problem I see with welding a tank which failed due to freezing is that it's possible (likely?) the aluminum stretched before cracking. As it stretches, a weak area is formed until it bursts open, and that weak area around the crack will still be weak after the tank is welded.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by richard5933

One problem I see with welding a tank which failed due to freezing is that it's possible (likely?) the aluminum stretched before cracking. As it stretches, a weak area is formed until it bursts open, and that weak area around the crack will still be weak after the tank is welded.

I replaced mine for that very reason, but the pressure is max 60psi. Heating the water to 120 to 140* does not increase pressure. If the thermostat fails, the relief valve will pop off.
Still..........

[bobcan]

Originally Posted by beckspeed

I was expecting more - the whole new unit plus the door with flanges was about $500.

Also I'm happy to save the old parts. I'll post when they're out so someone can claim them.

Yes.. you really cannot beat that for time involved, and the 12 years of service it has already put in!! And as noted, someone will one day thank you for keeping 'spare parts' I am certain..
Hope it all goes well, and Happy Camping!!

[drew05]

Originally Posted by beckspeed

Sorry Silvr_Bullet - I know my post was unclear.

To recap - the HW tank cracked so I put the unit in bypass.

I was pressurizing the system to look for additional leaks and everything appears to be ok. I have cold water everywhere - including from the both Cold and Hot faucett on the kitchen sink.

My only issue is this: The shower faucet only produces water from the Hot side (red Pex feed line - marked C on handle) - the Cold side (white pex - H handle) has a trickle.

This MUST be a bad / clogged faucet? because the toilet supply line, which is 12" away works fine.

My only alternative thought is that putting the system in bypass only sends water on the hot side to the bathroom. this cant be true because the toilet has water pressure.

Are you still having water flow issues in your shower?

[beckspeed]

Yeah half of the shower faucet doesn’t work. I haven’t had time to pull the water heater yet but I’m assuming the faucet is bad too. I did pull the cartridge from the faucet but it looked to be in working order.