Water Not Getting to Water Heater?

[CL3]

New to us 2018 FC 25FB, not getting hot water from faucets after getting a small amount. Checked water heater and only air coming out of pressure relief valve. There isn't an anode rod in water heater and found plastic threaded plug sitting on shelf below anode rod hole. I have several questions.

Airstream winterized it a few months ago, did they take out the anode rod and leave it open? Why would there be a plastic plug sitting there?

We get water out of the hot water faucets, but why is the hot water tank not filling? Bypass valve is closed.

Not sure what's going on here. Any thoughts?

[PaulBristol]

Hot water system is winterized.

Replace the plastic plug in the drain hole. That model heater probably does not use an anode rod.

Winterizing valves are usually on the back side of the tank. There may be one to three valves. Mine has one valve. Turn it 1/4 turn to switch water flow from bypass to fill the tank. If there are more valves, they must be switched from bypass position to tank position.

Tank will fill when pressure is supplied to water system. Open a hot water faucet to let the air out.

Fill the tank before turning electric water heat "ON". Heating element will be destroyed if turned "ON" dry. The water heater circuit breaker in the main panel may be "OFF" to prevent accidentally frying the heating element.

[CL3]

Originally Posted by PaulBristol

Hot water system is winterized.

Replace the plastic plug in the drain hole. That model heater probably does not use an anode rod.

Winterizing valves are usually on the back side of the tank. There may be one to three valves. Mine has one valve. Turn it 1/4 turn to switch water flow from bypass to fill the tank. If there are more valves, they must be switched from bypass position to tank position.

Tank will fill when pressure is supplied to water system. Open a hot water faucet to let the air out.

Fill the tank before turning electric water heat "ON". Heating element will be destroyed if turned "ON" dry. The water heater circuit breaker in the main panel may be "OFF" to prevent accidentally frying the heating element.

Thanks. When you say 1/4 turn on the bypass valve would that be perpendicular or in line to the line?

[MINICS04]

Inline with the line.

Also, you have an Atwood(Dometic) water heater that does not need an anode rod.

[PaulBristol]

Originally Posted by CL3

Thanks. When you say 1/4 turn on the bypass valve would that be perpendicular or in line to the line?

The handles point in the direction of flow. Pointing to the bypass means it will flow that way.


Follow the pipes.


https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=wat...diagram&ia=web

[aftermath]

CL3, how is it going? I hope you have figured things out. You have gotten some good information. I have an older 25FB and my system has the 3 valve winterizing option. Those are actually pretty simple and mine is easily accessible from the outside storage compartment.
The cold (fresh) water comes in at the bottom of the tank, that valve needs to be turned inline with the line (open). It exits as hot water and that line also needs to be turned inline. The short section between the two lines is the bypass and it needs to be closed (perpendicular) to the line.
I was advised many years ago not to leave the plastic plug out during the winter. After everything is drained replace the plug to avoid any rusting of the threads. That is what I do. If any water is left in the tank, freezing will not cause any damage since there will be such a small amount and it will have plenty of room to expand. Been doing this since 2009 without any issues.....yet.

[CL3]

Originally Posted by aftermath

CL3, how is it going? I hope you have figured things out. You have gotten some good information. I have an older 25FB and my system has the 3 valve winterizing option. Those are actually pretty simple and mine is easily accessible from the outside storage compartment.
The cold (fresh) water comes in at the bottom of the tank, that valve needs to be turned inline with the line (open). It exits as hot water and that line also needs to be turned inline. The short section between the two lines is the bypass and it needs to be closed (perpendicular) to the line.
I was advised many years ago not to leave the plastic plug out during the winter. After everything is drained replace the plug to avoid any rusting of the threads. That is what I do. If any water is left in the tank, freezing will not cause any damage since there will be such a small amount and it will have plenty of room to expand. Been doing this since 2009 without any issues.....yet.

I haven't been able to get back to it yet, but will. I closed the bypass valve (parallel with line), but tank didn't fill. I'm betting that Airstream service guy closed one of the other valves. I'll take a look and see when I can. Thanks for the response, it's helpful info.

[Ksweeney]

The water suply valve is behind the heater. On my 2018 25 FBT, access is through a round hole in the plywood under the passenger side bed. It's too small for me, so I remove the plywood to get to it. You'll notice that it's practically hidden anyway. This shows the valve turned off.
Have fun with it!
Kirk