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Old 08-02-2003, 10:02 AM   #21
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Still taking cold showers....

Forrest-
Thanks for your reply. I still dont really get why the
door wont work. I havent seen one tho...
It seems as if the hole in the AS is the same size
no matter what heater is in it. Why not just pull the
door off of the new heater and cover it with the old
cover? Is the door on the new one anything more than
just a cover? If so couldnt an aluminum one be
made? I do like your silver paint idea much better
than the big white door idea.

Heidi
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Old 08-02-2003, 11:12 AM   #22
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Water heater - keep it or replace???

Greetings Heidi!

The door on the water heater provides for both air intake and the exhaust of byproducts from combustion. The Vintage water heater cover may or may not have openings that properly align with the openings on the new heater - - if they do, then it MIGHT be possible to adapt - - if they don't, then the process becomes one of questionable merit (IMHO). Another consideration is that the manufacturer of your new water heater unit may interpret the removal of the factory door/cover and replacement with a modified OEM door to be a violation of warranty and void your warranty if any issues crop up during the warranty period - - I have had issues with both new water heaters on my two coaches, but my installer utilized the doors included with the water heaters so there were no questions about warranty coverage.

Good luck with your decision!

Kevin
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Old 08-02-2003, 11:20 PM   #23
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Dito

What Kevin said. The cover or door is actually part of the flue or chimney on my vintage water heater, and is three pieces. Here's a photo of one part without the large cover in place.
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Old 08-02-2003, 11:28 PM   #24
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Cover

Then the cover fits over the flue (the part that's black in the prior photo) as shown in this photo. Also, the photo shows a mesh grill or grate hanging down. That fits in the bottom of the outer cover to protect the pilot light from being blown out by the wind, and is removable to provide access to light it. All three pieces are specific to this water heater and most likely wouldn't fit a new one or some other brand.
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Old 08-03-2003, 08:39 AM   #25
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All right Guys. I'll believe it if you say it. I did not know about the flue part and all. Thought it was just a cover. My water heater
looks exactly like Forrest's. It was working fine for the PO
and the RV dealer told me it may just need cleaning. I'm
going to try that route first I think. If it dosent work I'll have
to go from there. Do you know if the thermostat can
be replaced on this? My tank is fine and holds water. I just cant light it.
We are getting a polish soon and the white door will look
even worse.
Thanks for the help.

Heidi
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Old 08-03-2003, 12:49 PM   #26
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Which won't light?

Heidi,

Is it the burner that won't light? If so it may be clogged with leaves or spider webs (they love propane). Simply run a rag or push a long thin brush through it. It must be kept entirely clean. Even a little obstruction causes the flame to be a lazy orange (it should be blue).

The pilot light is hard to light on my water heater mostly because it is buried in next to the tip of the burner. The pilot gas tube has a long run from the regulator/thermostate and takes its own sweet time getting there. Then once it is lit I have to hold down the red button for at least a minute. If you go through all of this and can't get the pilot to light even with the button depressed then the lines or thermostate might need cleaning, but most likely will not need to be replaced. Check the inlets and outlets for obstructions first.

If the pilot lights but won't stay lit then try adjusting the thermocouple so that it is in the flame better, and if that doesn't work you may need a new thermocouple.

None of these things are expensive, just require patience, and once everything is adjusted the unit should be reliable. Here's a diagram I hope will help you.
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Old 08-03-2003, 08:35 PM   #27
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Heidi---i would suggest trying two things--1) try tighting that nut on the copper line ( bottom line ) where it comes from the control. Don't over tighten it, just so it's snug. 2) look see when you get the pilot light, that the flame is burning across the tip of the other end of the copper line ( thermocouple ). If the flame is not burning correctly on the end of the thermocouple, it will not produce enough millivots to keep the safety on & will need to be cleaned. If this doesn't work, then I would try a new thermocouple, before replacing the control. A word of CAUTION, if you're not comfortable doing these, then get some qualified service person to check it out.
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Old 08-04-2003, 09:26 AM   #28
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6 Gallon Water tank

A number of years ago my 6 gal. water tank began to leak.
I removed same and ordered fro Atwood Mobile Products. a new one . I phoned and sent them a cheque. and received it in short course.

I installed it and it is still just fine.

You need the model number. Mine was a G6A2
part number 91412. and at that time was $67.20.
plus shipping.

They were very friendly and co-operative.

It installed easily and is what I needed.

Atwood Mobile Products
4750 Hiawatha Drive
Rockford, Ill.
1103-129
1-800-877-847-7160
(815) 877-5700

Rae Baker
Burlington, Ont.
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Old 05-28-2005, 10:18 AM   #29
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My '66 Safari has a problem with the water heater also. The control unit does not work and the burner assembly needs replacement. It is a Bowen with a Honeywell control.
Does any one know where to get these parts?
I understand that there is some major modifications if you go with a new atwood water heater.
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Old 10-23-2005, 01:40 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john wilson
My '66 Safari has a problem with the water heater also. The control unit does not work and the burner assembly needs replacement. It is a Bowen with a Honeywell control.
Does any one know where to get these parts?
I understand that there is some major modifications if you go with a new atwood water heater.
Hi John, To answer your question. The Burner tube itself is obsolete. I did find one at an RV heating and A/C outfit. Lucky me ! If the Burner tube is ok, you can put a new thermocouple/pilot light assy. on pretty easily. The control is still available. It is not specific to Bowen. I have a newer control on my old Bowen. Go to an appliance repair shop that works on gas appliances. Take the old control with you. They oughta be able to match it up with a new one.
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