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Old 09-04-2019, 04:21 PM   #21
RFP
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Hurst , Texas
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OK, it lit and is continuing to burn with a gorgeous blue flame!

Yay!

As much as I'm against such "scattergun" approaches, I did a LOT of stuff at the same time (so, I will probably never know the real culprit). I pulled the gas valve and checked it with 12VDC to assure myself it was opening, I pulled the orifice and blew 150PSI air through it to eliminate the possibility of a clog (I couldn't see any, but, well, you know...). Then I cleaned every spade connector and ground... really, really clean.

Then, I gave it a try. It came to life and went straight to work heating the water in the tank.

Funny thing, though... when I turned the switch OFF the first time, the flame continued. So, I gave the gas valve a very scientific "love tap" and it "nearly" went out; just a hint of flame remaining.

I've since put it through several ON/OFF cycles and it has operated perfectly every time. I'm thinking all this fiddling around with the valve may have dislodged a bit of crud which kept the valve from fully closing that first time.

A HUGE Gold Star to every one of you great folks who helped me with this frustrating problem!

Robert
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Old 09-08-2019, 10:03 AM   #22
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2018 26' Flying Cloud
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Found that (last item on troubleshooting list) the circuit board was bad. Upgraded to Dinosaur replacement model and no problems so far. Could be the vibration and conditions we travel in are too much for the stock model. The upgrade is clearly more robust and better protected. Would definitely check all other things first, as the circuit boards (stock and upgrade) are not cheap.
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Old 09-08-2019, 12:06 PM   #23
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Casper , Wyoming
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This has happened to me before. You need to clean the soot off the spark probes. It works every time. Here's some photos:
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Old 09-08-2019, 01:01 PM   #24
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1976 31' Excella 500
St. Augustine , Florida
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First, make sure the pilot flame stays on, has ENOUGH flame (partially blocked orifice) and the thermocouple is IN the flame. If all those things look good, replace the thermocouple. If that doesn't work, replace the entire gas control. Inside of the gas control is a magnetic switch that is operated by the milliamps of power generated by the thermocouple that can go bad.
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Old 09-08-2019, 01:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarge12212 View Post
First, make sure the pilot flame stays on, has ENOUGH flame (partially blocked orifice) and the thermocouple is IN the flame. If all those things look good, replace the thermocouple. If that doesn't work, replace the entire gas control. Inside of the gas control is a magnetic switch that is operated by the milliamps of power generated by the thermocouple that can go bad.
The newer water heaters do not have thermocouples. The flame it detected through the plasma of the flame at the igniter.
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2014 23D International Serenity - "Fortune Cookie"
2015 Ford F150 3.5 EcoBoost, Max Tow - "Cookie Monster"
And some stuff

Fortune Cookie: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rfpd30...57663633667345

"The Black Swan": https://www.flickr.com/photos/rfpd30...57648991024725
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Old 09-08-2019, 02:45 PM   #26
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Check igniter condition 1st
Others who mentioned it are right
The flame comes on then the sensor looks for heat. If it doesn't see it the gas is shut off to prevent gas build up that could cause an explosion
Sensor needs good clean connections since it is producing milliamperes of current. It has to be positioned right in the middle of the flame
JCW
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Old 09-08-2019, 03:41 PM   #27
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
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Cary , NC
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I had the same concern. Oddly the light is not suppose to stay on. Flashes when you flip switch only. Seems counter intuitive, but that is the way it is.

Best,
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Old 09-08-2019, 04:48 PM   #28
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I just want to be clear: my problem is fixed... everything is working perfectly now. Thanks!
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2014 23D International Serenity - "Fortune Cookie"
2015 Ford F150 3.5 EcoBoost, Max Tow - "Cookie Monster"
And some stuff

Fortune Cookie: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rfpd30...57663633667345

"The Black Swan": https://www.flickr.com/photos/rfpd30...57648991024725
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Old 09-27-2019, 01:13 PM   #29
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old and new board
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Old 09-27-2019, 01:30 PM   #30
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1981 31' Excella II
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That board is exposed to the elements. I don't see how the new board can last long without a moisture barrier.


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Old 09-27-2019, 01:44 PM   #31
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was does the AS potted board die within 6 month?
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Old 09-27-2019, 01:44 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
That board is exposed to the elements. I don't see how the new board can last long without a moisture barrier.


Perry
It comes with a protective plastic enclosure
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2014 23D International Serenity - "Fortune Cookie"
2015 Ford F150 3.5 EcoBoost, Max Tow - "Cookie Monster"
And some stuff

Fortune Cookie: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rfpd30...57663633667345

"The Black Swan": https://www.flickr.com/photos/rfpd30...57648991024725
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:55 AM   #33
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1981 31' Excella II
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My OEM furnace board has lasted a long time. With the potted electronics I have seen some failures that I think are a result of the epoxy they pot with being too ridged and it does not flex at the same rate the board does and it break solder joints. Only time I have problems is when it is wet outside and I think that shorts out the igniter.



Glad it is fixed.



Perry
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Old 10-01-2019, 12:17 PM   #34
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Dixon , Illinois
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my heater quit working 2nd trip out. Checked continuity and fuses and determined it was circuit board. Called Dometic and they shipped out a replacement board and we are back in business
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