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Old 01-31-2023, 06:18 AM   #1
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Water heater drain plug

When I winterized (for the first time) our new to us 2018 Flying Cloud I saw plumbers putter on the hot water heater tank plug. Is this the correct procedure for fitting the plug?
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:31 AM   #2
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I don’t know if the plumbers putty is recommended or not. I have been using plumbers tape for over 30 years around the threads without incident.

I would be worried about some of the putty getting in the water tank and potentially clogging the mixing valve but have nothing to base this on. Perhaps an expert can chime in.
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:48 AM   #3
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The plug should be nylon. Some people replace it (improperly) with brass or other metal…which will require sealant. Teflon tape is best if a metal plug is used.
Installing a nylon plug rarely requires tape but no harm is done by it.
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Old 01-31-2023, 07:24 AM   #4
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Old 01-31-2023, 07:44 AM   #5
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If you are using a nylon plug that is in good condition, there should be no need for any sealant. However, it will not hurt anything if you do. I would recommend teflon tape over the plumber's putty, though. Less messy, and less chance of overdoing it and getting putty in the tank. It would only take a small amount to plug a mixing valve at any of your faucet locations, which would be a big pain to clean out.
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Old 01-31-2023, 09:16 AM   #6
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I have used this on all my Airstreams as well. So much easier than dealing with the nylon plug and it works perfectly.
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Old 01-31-2023, 09:22 AM   #7
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I agree with Boxite. Plumber's putty isn't meant to be used as a thread sealant and isn't supposed to be used on plastic or pvc. No sealant is necessary for a nylon plug but liquid pipe thread compound is recommended instead of teflon tape when used on plastic threads.
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Old 01-31-2023, 09:44 AM   #8
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Teflon tape……and carry an extra plug with you, ya never know when it may crack.
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Old 01-31-2023, 10:06 AM   #9
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what is that brass valve called and where do you find them to replace the nylon plug?
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Old 01-31-2023, 10:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho View Post
what is that brass valve called and where do you find them to replace the nylon plug?
I want to know too. I found them in 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8" but not in 1/2"
https://www.progressivepii.com/eaton...t-drain-valve/
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Old 01-31-2023, 10:16 AM   #11
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I use liquid Teflon with a brush on the plug
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Old 01-31-2023, 10:32 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by banderabob View Post
…and carry an extra plug with you, ya never know when it may crack.
...or get lost.

I winterized a week or so ago. Loosened the plug to allow the pressure to drop instead opening a spigot. Started up the air compressor without removing the plug. Walked around the trailer then remembered the plug. Searched for about 10 minutes but couldn't find the plug. The house is just 10 feet from the trailer. Plug vanished. Decided it wasn't worth wasting my time with a continued search. Ordered a pair from Amazon, instead.
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Old 01-31-2023, 10:34 AM   #13
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Bushing

Quote:
Originally Posted by ITSNO60 View Post
I want to know too. I found them in 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8" but not in 1/2"
https://www.progressivepii.com/eaton...t-drain-valve/
You could use a brass bushing to adapt to the size of the valve.
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Old 01-31-2023, 10:39 AM   #14
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I installed a Hott Spot water heater. It is installed in the drain plug opening, I have used Teflon tape onto the brass fitting, no problems 10 years.
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Old 01-31-2023, 10:40 AM   #15
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I carry an extra nylon plug (cheap and readily available at any hardware store) and I use a little plumbers tape.

With a nylon plug, it's possible to "misthread" if you're not careful. Don't over tighten.
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Old 01-31-2023, 12:17 PM   #16
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Just about every time I put the plug back in I can’t get it tight enough, and after the water is heated up I will notice a drip. I then re tighten it and no leaks. I have found these nylon plugs are hard to get to and hard to tighten adequately on the first time.

P.S. When you put the plug back in I would take a wand and clean the tank out a bit. Sediment can settle at the bottom. And when you fill the tank back up that sediment will plug your mixing valve. Happened to me.
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Old 01-31-2023, 01:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daquenzer View Post
Just about every time I put the plug back in I can’t get it tight enough, and after the water is heated up I will notice a drip. I then re tighten it and no leaks. I have found these nylon plugs are hard to get to and hard to tighten adequately on the first time.

P.S. When you put the plug back in I would take a wand and clean the tank out a bit. Sediment can settle at the bottom. And when you fill the tank back up that sediment will plug your mixing valve. Happened to me.
I blow it out with my garage compressor...

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Old 01-31-2023, 01:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daquenzer View Post
Just about every time I put the plug back in I can’t get it tight enough, and after the water is heated up I will notice a drip. I then re tighten it and no leaks. I have found these nylon plugs are hard to get to and hard to tighten adequately on the first time.
A flat closed-end ratcheting wrench works well on the plug. The wrench that came with the ProPride V2 jacks fits the plug perfectly. I believe it to be a 15/16 and 7/8 combo.

I've found that the plug must be tightened all the way to the shoulder.
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Old 01-31-2023, 04:51 PM   #19
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YOu might wish to remember. that it is considered Good Maintenance to remove that plug and use a “wand” to completely Flush Out the water heater tank Annually to remove deposits and scale. A plastic plug will be better for frequent removal.

A mechanical/metal drain valve will have little attraction over a plastic plug which is cheap, and also provides an additional safety overtemp/blow-out feature.

Plugs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MVF67QV...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Wand: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Rinser-...e%2C326&sr=1-4
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:14 PM   #20
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Drain plug

Has anybody used the anode plug instead of the plug in the water heater that is suppose to collect deposits in the hot water heater. I understand this insert keeps the inside of the water heater from corrosion.
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