replacing polybutylene hot water valve

[Lumatic]

The polybutylene bypass valve in my 93 is leaking. It is in a pretty hard to reach spot inside a small closet under the bathroom sink. I am looking for suggestions on replacing this valve. Thanks

[thewarden]

You will not find these poly B valves or pipe any longer but they can be replaced with any 1/2" pex valve. You can also replace any sections of the poly B pipe that need to be removed in order to replace the valve with 1/2" pex. Of course, you will need some 1/2" rings, crimp tool, tube cutter and a few feet of 1/2" pex. You will also need a crimp ring cutter to cut off the old rings. You can cut them off with side cutters, but it is a pain.

All of this is available at any of the big box building stores or any plumbing supply store.

If you are not up to doing this yourself, any plumber can do it for you, the plumbing is no different than house plumbing.

[Lumatic]

What makes this complicated is access. The access is through a small sink closet door with the valves offset. The work would have to be done blind as there is no room to get your hands in there and also see what you are doing.I could cut out the valve with a vibrating multitool. How about Shark Bites?

[CBWELL]

The panel beside the toilet is held in with screws, about 8 if I remember correctly. Undo the screws and remove the panel and replumb all the valves with brass and pex. I did mine this spring. It's very easy with the panel removed. I removed the toilet and added a "riser" at the same time.

[Bill M.]

I also would think about replacing everything in there with PEX and new valves if I was going to the trouble of accessing it.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by CBWELL

The panel beside the toilet is held in with screws, about 8 if I remember correctly. Undo the screws and remove the panel and replumb all the valves with brass and pex. I did mine this spring. It's very easy with the panel removed. I removed the toilet and added a "riser" at the same time.

Thanks that helps a lot. What would help me more if you could post a photos. My panel has been carpeted over so I will check it out. I am thinking about replacing the carpet in the bathroom with vinyl flooring while I am at it,

What would you recommend for attaching PEX to polybutylene?

[CBWELL]

I totally rebuilt mine with oak when I took the carpet covered part out about 3 years ago. I should have replaced all the lines and valves then, but didn't. This past summer, there was a leak in one of the valves, so I removed what I had built and then replaced al the piping and valves. If I remember correctly, I got a "shark bite" adapter from polybutyl to pex, and used some pex adapters. Home depot has everything you need. I am in Yuma at present with no way to get pictures. I replaced the crapet in the bath with click together vinyl tiles. Much better!!

[thewarden]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

Thanks that helps a lot. What would help me more if you could post a photos. My panel has been carpeted over so I will check it out. I am thinking about replacing the carpet in the bathroom with vinyl flooring while I am at it,

What would you recommend for attaching PEX to polybutylene?

Because things are tight in there I would use pex clamps rather than rings as the tool is smaller. Any 1/2" valve will work and you can use the pex clamps to attach to pex or poly b pipe.

[GCinSC2]

How about pex clamps that do not require the special tools. Got channel lock pliers and a screwdriver?

Pliers to lock clamp, screwdriver to unlock.

https://flairit.com/product-category/pexlock-fittings/

I found these a while back and made a pex fitting kit just for these situations.

Gary

[thewarden]

On the attached photo, cut the poly b pipe illustrated in red on either side of your valve. I am assuming it is the top valve in the pic. Next cut the crimp ring, (green X), attach new valve to poly b pipe at the top of your photo, which I can not see in your photo, then attach new piece of pex to the copper fitting with crimp ring, (blue arrow), attach other end of the pex to the new valve, purple circle, and you are good to go. I had to replace a drain valve under my HWT in the same space under the lav sink on my 27 FB. It is tight, but it can be done.

[Captnkirk54]

Changing to the PEX would be the neatest solution. If you just change out the poly you will need adapter fittings or you will have leaks. The big box stores still carry these or you can use the shark bite fittings. My house was built with the poly and I have been changing connections to pex as they give out

[jimdelane]

you can bypass all the crimping tools etc by just purchasing a 1/2" sharkbite valve for pex. Just make sure you have a good clean, square cut on the PB and seat tightly the PB in the pex socket. You can get a 1/2" pex ball valve from ebay, Home Depot, Lowes and a lot of hardware stores.

[Lumatic]

Thanks to the above advice I removed the bottom panel which was stapled in. After the carpet covering was removed the panel was the same material as the cabinet. I plan to add a little moulding and not replace the carpeting The valves now are very accessible and I plan to replace all 3 hot water heater valves as a unit with Pex.

I could have worked around the toilet but removed it because I am going to replace the floor with vinyl planks.

You may want to view the photo of the cabinet while standing on your head, sorry.

[cbburke]

As jimdelane pointed out Home Depot has a full line of shark bit pex fittings. Makes life easier.