Pressure relief valve replacement

[SlvrTwinkie]

The pressure relief valve on the HW heater mine has a drip going on. I know it is going to have to be replaced. What I am wondering is if I can just go get one at the local hardware store or does it have to come from an RV Parts store?

Also, over the winter or next spring I would like to add an accumilator and a brass backflow valve on the FW system. Does the accumilator go between the the pump and backflow valve or after the backflow valve? I am thinking between them. I don't think the accumilator would help when hooked to city water. Any advice would be helpful. TIA

Sorry for any misspelled words (accumilator?)

[JoeHTP]

Ours died last year while we were on Prince Edward Island. It is a standard relief valve (at least on our 25FC). I was able to find the exact same model in a local hardware store and replace it.

BTW, started with a drip, and ended as a waterfall, so replace it before it blows.

[SlvrTwinkie]

Originally Posted by JoeHTP

Ours died last year while we were on Prince Edward Island. It is a standard relief valve (at least on our 25FC). I was able to find the exact same model in a local hardware store and replace it.

BTW, started with a drip, and ended as a waterfall, so replace it before it blows.

Thank you Joe, Noticed last weekend when we were at a rally that it had a drip coming from it. I will look to see if I can read(find) the pressure and temp on the old one and see if our local HD or Rural King has one in stock and get it replaced. Thanks again

[OTRA15]

PRV's are available in most hardware stores. They are inexpensive. A spare to carry along might come in handy in the middle of nowhere. Sometimes they get grit in them, because folks are not religious about using an inline RV water filter in the hose, both for filling the water tank, and for using city water.

An accumulator can go inline in any pressurized cold water line [not between the water tank and the pump]. It can also be Tee'd off a line, in which case it does not have water running through it.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1lRAw8xG7L.pdf

We just received one yesterday in fact!

The accumulator has to be included in the winterization process FWIW, so most installations are done vertically with the air-fill on top for pressuring the rubber bladder inside, and the plumbing connections at the bottom.

https://www.google.com/search?q=accu...=airforums.com

Happy trails,

[ROBERT CROSS]

Ours drips at random...snap it closed several times and it stops.

Bob
🇺🇸

Disclaimer...I use the valve to blow the tank every Fall.

[guskmg]

Sounds like you may have some debris under the seat. Lift it several times to flush the seat. The mfgs. recommend raising the lever every so often anyway.
guskmg

[SlvrTwinkie]

Otr15, I had planned on putting the accumulator With the tank pointing upward, like in a house water system on a well. But should I put the brass backflow valve before or after the accumulator?
As for filters, I do use a Camco inline filter on the city water hook up and I use it when I fill the FW tank. Can not see having a filter and not using it to filter any and all water going through the system. Last weekend was the first time I forgot to use the filter when filling the FW tank, just didn't think about it. When I added 5 gallons a couple days later I did not use the filter to fill the can but the PRV drip was already there on the first day, I discovered it when I lit the heater. I do need to fill the FW tab=nk and rest calibrate the FW gauge, it showed we had used 3/4 of tank in to days and I knew there was no way we used 33 gallons cause I had to drain our grey tank and it is only 10-12 gallons.


Bob, Never thought about using the PRV to blow out the HW tank good idea. I do open the PRV to allow air to vent to drain the heater faster. And I like the old half gallon milk jug to run the water away from the heater when draining. Might be a little hard to do on mine since I have the old wing style petcock drain. Simular to the style they use to use on the old brass radiator tanks back before these cheap plastic they use now.


GuskMG, I use the PRV valve to assist in draining the tank when it is going to sit for a period of time. But maybe I need to hook up the city water and let water flow out of it before I drain it this weekend to see if debris comes out of it. I have a glass jar I can catch the water in to be able to see if there is debris in the water.

Thanks for all the insight as to how I could possibly correct the issue and on the accumulator.
The brass backflow valve I want to put in is to prevent the one built into the pump from leaking back into the FW tank. I feel with the issue everyone having with the in pump backflow valves they should install the brass one in line at the factory to prevent the in pump one from going bad. Just my thoughts (since the seems to be a change shortage otherwise I would have said 2 cents) on that.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by SlvrTwinkie

Otr15, I had planned on putting the accumulator With the tank pointing upward, like in a house water system on a well. But should I put the brass backflow valve before or after the accumulator?
. . .

In theory, and in my personal non-plumber opinion, it should go in the water line bringing water from the water tank to the pump, in essence right next to the pump's check valve.

If the pump's check valve is failing, would we want to run the risk of pumped water pressure [vs. city water pressure] leaking "backwards" into the tank? No.

In our FC20 setup, there is room between our inline OEM water filter and the pump. I would put it there IMO.

BTW, I installed our accumulator this morning, just lying loose under the bathroom sink, because longer connection hoses for the new faucet H/C are on back order. Will post an update in the 20-footer thread later.

Good luck,

[FloydCoVa]

I bought this to filter all water that comes into our airstream,whether it’s into the tank or directly. A friend of mine said he just used garden hose brass quick fittings. That what I used the hose fittings are course thread and the filter is fine thread but I just kinda forced them with some pipe cement and they work just fine.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Whole...H04F/100471282

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Unive...XWTC/100034332

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Fe...7998/205474042

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Fe...7998/205474042

[FloydCoVa]

Here it is. This will filter better than the Blue camco

[SlvrTwinkie]

Floyd, I have used a filter like that on my outside spigot to fill an above ground pool before. Really helped with the iron and calcium in our well water. All my outside spigots are not ran through the water softner. I have thought about setting on up for our AS too, Never know the hardness of campground water. Last state park we were at the water was so hard you could smell the iron in the water when filling the FW tank (park did not have full hook ups). Wife uses bottled water but I don't mind drinking from the faucet. Grew up in a time when if you were thristy and outside you just drank from the garden hose.

[FloydCoVa]

I know what you mean. I used to ride a bicycle without a helmet as well as drink from the garden hose.

I use this filter to filter out partials of sand and dirt etc that can get into the water system. We also sanitize the fresh water tanks each spring, and we also drink bottled water. Go figure.

[talewis13]

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

Here it is. This will filter better than the Blue camco

Attachment 374597

I added a second housing using a brass connector and ordered the replacement filters for Clearsource. They are 5micron and .5micron fits perfectly and I saved a ton of money like $200.


Clearsource Replacement Water Filter Cartridge Twin Pack with 5 Micron Sediment Filter and .5 Micron Carbon Block Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GN678S..._zm.nFb3ZSA17X