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McDonalds · 06-01-2012, 09:02 AM

Since I am not using propane in my trailer, I needed an all electric hot water heater. Home Depot has an Ariston 6+ Gal. 6-Year 1500 kW 120 Volt Point-of-Use Mini Electric Water Heater with a lot of positive reviews from other RV'ers. I know from the forums that generally, folks here don't like point of use heaters but since I don't have propane (and won't), this is my only choice. Unless of course, I get a point of use propane water heater, install it on some kind of support outside the back of the trailer and run a connection directly to the shower. I can do such a thing, and it would probably deliver good hot water, but it's kind of a jerry rig and the wife wouldn't like such an eyesore.
What are your thoughts???

idroba · 06-01-2012, 09:15 AM

If it is a 6 gal unit, that is the same capacity as most regular propane heaters. With a 1500 watt element heating, it will take about 30 minutes to heat the 6 gal. (depending on incoming water temp).

The famous GMC motorhomes of the 70's had, as original equipment, 6 gal electric water heaters with 1000 watt elements and they got along fine.

Now, a 1500 watt tankless heater is a completely different thing, but you are indicating the one you are interested in is a tank heater, just a small size.

McDonalds · 06-04-2012, 10:17 PM

Okay, I think I'm going to buy this water heater. It's the same size as my old Atwood. Now, how do I run another circuit that will take the 1500 watts this thing needs? I know that when I run the electric microwave (700 watts) and small ceramic heater, I blow a breaker. I don't want that to happen when the ac is on or microwave, so I know I'll need another circuit. Worse comes to worse, I'll just have the cord available from the outside where the old heater went so I can run it to 120v shore power. Whadayathink?????

idroba · 06-04-2012, 11:13 PM

Another circuit for the 1500 watt water heater is a good idea. At some point though, you will run into the limits of the total 30 amp 120 volt power cord and the circuit that supplies the power for the rig. 30 amp x 120 volts = 3600 watts total you can get through the original power cord on your unit. If you need more, you would want to convert to a 50 amp service, or as you suggest, the original plus a second one for heavy loads such as the water heater you propose.

Future_Craig · 09-02-2012, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idroba

Another circuit for the 1500 watt water heater is a good idea. At some point though, you will run into the limits of the total 30 amp 120 volt power cord and the circuit that supplies the power for the rig. 30 amp x 120 volts = 3600 watts total you can get through the original power cord on your unit. If you need more, you would want to convert to a 50 amp service, or as you suggest, the original plus a second one for heavy loads such as the water heater you propose.

idroba,

I'm an Airstream 'newbe' restoring a '74 Sovereign and considering the same all-electric Ariston water heater upgrade from the existing Bowen.

If a second 30 amp cord was added to only run a 120v water heater, will there be a second 30 amp plug at most campsites? And if so, will there be an extra charge to plug in twice?

(be kind. I've yet to go camping even once)

**DKB_SATX** · 09-02-2012, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Future_Craig

idroba,

I'm an Airstream 'newbe' restoring a '74 Sovereign and considering the same all-electric Ariston water heater upgrade from the existing Bowen.

If a second 30 amp cord was added to only run a 120v water heater, will there be a second 30 amp plug at most campsites? And if so, will there be an extra charge to plug in twice?

(be kind. I've yet to go camping even once)

There will NOT be a 2nd 30A socket available at most campsites. If you're in a campsite with 50A service, you can get adapters that split the 50A into 2 30A sockets, but that's only usable where you have 50A.

Most 30A sites that I've seen also have a 20A or 15A circuit on the pedestal, though. Sometimes a 50A site will have 50A, 30A and 20A sockets each with its own breaker, but I've camped in a 50A site which didn't have a 30A socket and required an adapter.

Future_Craig · 09-03-2012, 03:24 PM

Thanks for the clarification, DKB_SATX.

I've decided to add a dedicated water heater breaker and move forward with the Ariston.

McDonalds,
This might be helpful - I just spoke with someone who recently installed the very same Ariston 6gal water heater and they love it! I was concerned that the 6 gal size would not allow for a decent shower but he said that the Ariston made very hot water and he takes a long shower. So it should be fine for at least one good shower or 2 'Navy' showers. At any rate, I think it only takes 20 min. to heat up again.

So, for all of us going 120v only, this seems like a good option.

Frank's Trailer Works · 09-03-2012, 04:05 PM

stupid question; why no propane?

colberjs · 09-03-2012, 05:24 PM

I'm curious. I have read posts saying not to put a residential water heater in an AS. Nobody has mentioned that here. What is the difference. Because I like this idea and would like to do something similar.

Frank's Trailer Works · 09-03-2012, 06:21 PM

Residential gas fired water heaters rob the room of combustion air. In a confined space like an RV and a boat it can be deadly. Now others will tell you it is fine to do.

BigAl · 09-03-2012, 06:30 PM

with electric water heater you can't have a hot shower and boondock. I often stop for one night at a rest stop or whatever and love to be able to have a hot shower before bed. Something to keep in mind.
Al

Future_Craig · 09-04-2012, 09:31 AM

Frank,

Not a stupid question. I definitely know that a propane system has the best flexibility. I decided to go 120v only [at least for now] because my 74 Sovereign was gutted from the hallway forward and it was cheaper to go all electric. That's the short version - I might need to open a new thread to discuss the full story which includes turning 1/2 of my Galley into an Office and having to squeeze an entire kitchen into the other half and I was able to find an all -electric self-contained kitchen that meets my immediate need. but I digress...

Note - I'm saving my tanks and anything I pull out - for me or the next owner in case the AS goes back to propane - but for now. I'm all electric.

BigAl,
Yup, I will definitely miss the option of a hot shower in some situations, but, I plan to buy one of the more quiet generators (Honda i2000 or Yamaha EF2400iSHC) for boon-docking situations that allow for generators. These are pretty quiet and I -might- even get away using them in some camping situations.

colberjs,
I have read (and support) the warnings by lewster (look him up) and others referring to RV Certified appliances. The trouble is, I have not found a "120v only" water heater that has been specifically designed for RVs. If anyone has info on one, PLEASE feel free to comment. No ego here.

That said, apparently, there are plenty of people using the Ariston with good results.

Research-
I have searched for days (literally) through websites, forum posts, old episodes of the VAP (Vintage Airstream Podcast) etc. looking for a decent 120v only solution. I originally thought that a tankless WH would be a perfect solution - only to find that with 120v, I would be lucky to get anything above a 'slighty' warm shower in any cold weather and the only way to get a good tankless solution is also with propane (i.e. the RV500).

So, unless I go propane, or switch to a 50amp service and use a 220v tankless, my only option for a HOT 120v only shower is to use an actual TANK of HOT water (albeit a small 6gal) tank.

Dang, I didn't mean to go this long. I hate reading long posts - and now I just made one.

colberjs · 09-04-2012, 09:46 AM

Future-Craig, I appreciate your post. What venting requirements are there for the point-of-use WH's?

Future_Craig · 09-04-2012, 10:08 AM

I wish I had a good answer for you.

I was just going to use the existing vented cover from my original WH as I am simply 'replacing' the tank and not changing the location.

That said, I will call my local Home Depot who sells the Ariston and see if they have an answer to your (and now my) venting question.

[my guess it that they won't have an answer because the unit is designed for a home and I am expecting a long pause after my question followed by something like, "well I haven't heard of anyone using it for that but...."]

Hopefully, the box will have some helpful venting info. I'll report back with an answer ASAP.

Craig

**DKB_SATX** · 09-04-2012, 10:20 AM

An electric water heater wouldn't require venting, just a drain tube for the pressure relief valve.

Future_Craig · 09-04-2012, 11:13 AM

[update]

OK so, the Ariston 6gal unit is actually made by Bosch.
I just spoke with the Bosch rep and found out 2 relevant things:

1. Just like DKB_SATX said - No venting is required as this is electric only.
(guess that makes sense)

I downloaded the installation PDF from the website which has no reference to minimum installation requirements, spacing or venting and the Bosch rep seemed confused that I was even asking the question.

Any experts out there that would see a problem with this install?
[runs and hides]

2. This is interesting. The Ariston 6 gal (not the 4gal or 2.5 gal) can be installed horizontally -or- vertically with the horizontal configuration giving you a 7 gallon capacity instead of only 5 gallons if installed vertically. The pipes come out of the side in the horizontal configuration so, I would install horiz. and run the pipes to the side of you have the space.

colberjs · 09-04-2012, 11:20 AM

Thanks for the update. I will definitely keep this in mind when I get to that point of my project.

Future_Craig · 09-04-2012, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

......, just a drain tube for the pressure relief valve.

So, the install diagram shows a Drain Pan under the unit. Would a hose attached to the pressure relief valve running out through a hole in the floor negate the need for a drain pan - or do we need both a Drain Pan and a drain tube?

Future_Craig · 09-04-2012, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colberjs

Thanks for the update. I will definitely keep this in mind when I get to that point of my project.

Indeed! Those extra 2 gallons will be worth their weight in 'liquid gold'.

**DKB_SATX** · 09-04-2012, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Future_Craig

So, the install diagram shows a Drain Pan under the unit. Would a hose attached to the pressure relief valve running out through a hole in the floor negate the need for a drain pan - or do we need both a Drain Pan and a drain tube?

A drain pan could also catch water from a slow leak at a fitting, etc. If the relief valve opens, the drain pan may not be effective, though if it's in the regular install location and you've made a sealed "box" like the outer, exposed part of an RV unit, water from the relief valve would mostly go outside.

Since you're using it in a slightly different application than it was designed for, you may need to be a little creative with the install to manage emergency drainage, but it seems like it would be easy to do.