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Old 11-30-2022, 10:55 PM   #1
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I've never used compressed air to winterize, how to steps?

We have a new 2023 FC 23FB with the Girard and in lieu of leaving the water heater on all winter I'd rather blow out any remaining water after having drained the fresh tank and the low point in the lines. I have never done this with compressed air and would like to know what I need and where to hook up a compressor. A step by step procedure would be great. Also any tips or quirks about the Girard would be good to know as well. Thanks
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Old 11-30-2022, 11:50 PM   #2
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First, you need compressor and an adapter that adapts the compressor to the city water input. I use my 12 volt tire compressor so I have an adapter that looks like a valve stem connected to a male hose thread fitting. If your compressor doesn't have a regulator you can set to 40# or so, be careful not to let the pressure rise too high.

Here is what I do for my trailer (with a standard tanked water heater) - -

1. Drain hot water tank and replace the plug.
2. Drain most of the water from the fresh water tank.
3. Turn on the water pump and empty the water tank into the grey water tank.
4. Connect the compressor to the city water inlet and open one faucet at a time, cold first and then hot until there is very little water spitting out of the faucet, starting with the one farthest from the water inlet (the galley?).
5. Continue until you have drained the lines to all outlets including the shower, toilet, bathroom sink, and outside shower, if equipped.
6. Open the low point drains and get all the water out of them.
7. Pour some RV antifreeze into all sink and shower drains.
8. Drain the black and gray tanks.
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Old 12-01-2022, 02:55 AM   #3
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Good deal, thanks AL. Any recommendation where I can buy the adapter?
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Old 12-01-2022, 05:07 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by koberudy View Post
Good deal, thanks AL. Any recommendation where I can buy the adapter?
I made mine using the about a foot of the male end of an old garden hose, and hose-clamping a male shop-air fitting to the other end. Also, I never go above 40 psi on the setup

Tom
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Old 12-01-2022, 06:09 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by koberudy View Post
Good deal, thanks AL. Any recommendation where I can buy the adapter?
Amazon has many different types. If you have a RV store (like Camping World) close by they also sell them.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rv+winter..._ts-doa-p_5_17
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Old 12-01-2022, 09:26 AM   #6
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I have been doing this since 2009, never had a problem. Follow Al's list and you should be fine. I made my own adapter but the brass one for $9.95 looks great. I run my air pressure at about 50 psi. No need to go any higher.
Be careful when it comes to the sprayer in the sink and the toilet valve. Make sure that everything is blown clean. Outside shower? I usually do all the faucets twice.

You can't put air through the water pump but you can run it dry and it won't hurt the pump at all. My last step is to run the pump dry, reconnect the air and flush out the waterlines one last time. The pump will put water back into the lines...
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Old 12-01-2022, 09:31 AM   #7
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I MacGyver stuff...a lot.👍

Pretty straight forward...all stuff I've collected over the years.
The gauge is from an auto AC charging manifold.

I do blow out the water heater and the exterior fresh water hose connection.
Nothing in the toilet except seal lube on the flapper valve and make sure the line gets blowed. I do have a brass valve on the drain.


Disclaimer...I do have a 25g 175 psi compressor so it's easy to maintain 40-45 psi flow with one or two lines open.

Bob
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Old 12-01-2022, 10:38 AM   #8
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I agree with Al, You’ll want to be nimble and ready for a surprise freeze while on the road, shoot for a tool that will supplement the mobility of an Airstream. Pick the tools that will serve you best on the road, there are many ways to safely winterize without bulky tools that are better left home.
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Old 12-01-2022, 10:53 AM   #9
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Here is mine. Pretty similar to Al and Missy but a little different with same end result.
  1. Empty black and gray tanks and drain fresh water tank.
  2. Run pump dry then turn it off.
  3. Bypass water heater and remove white drain plug to let it drain.
  4. Remove water filter and install bypass if you have one.
  5. Connect REGULATED compressor to city water inlet (I set mine to 45PSI).
  6. Open each faucet and toilet to blow out catching water with something. I have an auto oil change pan that fits the Lobster sink perfect which we also use for conserving gray tank space when boon-docking. I go around twice.
  7. Disconnect Shower hoses, inside and out.
  8. Open low point drains and let some air blow through them.
  9. Disconnect compressor.
  10. Open all faucet valves and leave them open.
  11. Go around pouring RV antifreeze into all drain traps and toilet letting some go down the drain to help protect seals in tanks. I use about 1/2 gallon total.
  12. Some will tell you to get some RV antifreeze into the pump. I hate that stuff and have found even in harsh Colorado winter it stores fine as long as you run it dry.
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Old 12-01-2022, 10:54 AM   #10
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I also blow out the black tank flush and open the pressure relief valve on my tankless water heater to blow any water out of the water heater.
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Old 12-01-2022, 03:04 PM   #11
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Yeah I am wondering about the Girard, getting all the water out of it. So, you do that by releasing the pressure valve while still pressurizing the system with the air compressor? Do you release the pressure valve the same as with a tank heater? Anything else about winterizing the Girard?
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Old 12-01-2022, 03:06 PM   #12
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And what step number should that be?
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Old 12-02-2022, 10:32 AM   #13
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Yes I hold open the pressure relief valve on the tankless hot water heater while the system is pressurized. I don’t think the step number matters. I go back and forth a few times anyway between the sinks, shower, toilet and water heater to make sure all the water is out.
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Old 12-03-2022, 02:14 AM   #14
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Great, I'm going to make a checklist based on these responses. Thanks all; very helpful.
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Old 12-07-2022, 11:55 AM   #15
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If your compressor screws onto a valve stem, this is all you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36153-B...s%2C120&sr=8-9

I use a Ryobi 18v compressor because it takes the same batteries as my drill for deploying the stabilizers.
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Old 12-07-2022, 01:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
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If your compressor screws onto a valve stem, this is all you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36153-B...s%2C120&sr=8-9

I use a Ryobi 18v compressor because it takes the same batteries as my drill for deploying the stabilizers.

Just me?
I would take out the schrader valve.
No chance of forgetfully pressurizing the system.

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Old 12-07-2022, 02:37 PM   #17
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belt and suspenders

I have a small expansion tank installed under the wardrobe near the water pump. That and my sometimes retentive nature (blame it on aircraft ownership) lead me to follow the procedures in the list(s) by disconnecting the water pump input and output fittings with a wet/dry shop vac handy to pick up the spilled water and pull what water will come out of the disconnected hoses.

I also do the same with the water filter, the expansion tank, the toilet supply line and valve, the galley sink connector under the sink, the shower valve (with shower head disconnected and drained, and the outside shower valve (same).

For grins I taped a small diameter thick-walled clear tube to the shop vac and stuffed it into the water heater after all done with the rest, and was amazed how much water came out.

As other have said - perhaps not required, but I can't help myself sometimes.
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