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Old 10-01-2022, 11:46 AM   #1
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Is there a WH reset? Hidden fuse?

I blew a fuse at the panel and now my water heater doesn't fire up. Is there a reset somewhere or a second fuse?
I need a protocol to trouble shoot this, otherwise its cold showers next week in NM....
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Old 10-01-2022, 01:31 PM   #2
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Hi

Sometimes fuses blow at random. Other times they blow because something "downstream" died. What did the fuse that blew go to? I'm guessing it went to the control on the water heater, but that's very much a guess. If it did, that control may have died.

Bob
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Old 10-01-2022, 02:51 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Sometimes fuses blow at random. Other times they blow because something "downstream" died. What did the fuse that blew go to? I'm guessing it went to the control on the water heater, but that's very much a guess. If it did, that control may have died.

Bob

It was the circuit with the fridge (I was trying to wire in a fan- dont ask). That said, this is a rebuild and wiring isn't factory is my guess. What do you mean "control", is that a circuit board on the heater?
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Old 10-01-2022, 04:18 PM   #4
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Some hints would help others help you.
Is this for the 68 Tradewind you have listed?
What water heater do you have?
Do you have and know how to use a multi-meter?
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Old 10-01-2022, 04:24 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Wazbro View Post
Some hints would help others help you.
Is this for the 68 Tradewind you have listed?
What water heater do you have?
Do you have and know how to use a multi-meter?

It is for the 68 BUT it has been 100% rebuilt. I mean the outer skin is all that is original. Atwood water heater (Atwood | Dometic WH-6GEA Water Heater #94002BP).


Do not have one, haven't used one in years.



Im trying to make sure there isnt an easy fix/reset before hiring someone at $100/hr to sleuth it out.
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Old 10-01-2022, 06:06 PM   #6
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Can't guarantee it, but I think that there is a fuse on the circuit board. Perhaps if you pull the cover over the CB you'll see it.
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Old 10-01-2022, 08:33 PM   #7
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if memory serves me there is an external glass fuse that is connected to the " board?" with ell blade connections. I'll look for an image on my laptop and post




edit: granted mine is a Dometic WH GE-9-EXT (vintage 2014) but you may have a similar part near the board. It is immediately above the T-Stat label. Looks like it is contained in some clear shrink tube.
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Old 10-01-2022, 08:59 PM   #8
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if memory serves me there is an external glass fuse that is connected to the " board?" with ell blade connections. I'll look for an image on my laptop and post

edit: granted mine is a Dometic WH GE-9-EXT (vintage 2014) but you may have a similar part near the board. It is immediately above the T-Stat label. Looks like it is contained in some clear shrink tube.
The thing in the clear vinyl tube is a thermo-fuse. I believe it's a fall-back safety in case the thermostats fail to stop an overheat situation and/or if the flame escapes the burner area so the fuel shuts off.

If you look at the photo you posted, just below the plug for the wiring harness connection to the board, you'll see a 2-amp fuse. This is the fuse I was thinking about.
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Old 10-01-2022, 09:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
If you look at the photo you posted, just below the plug for the wiring harness connection to the board, you'll see a 2-amp fuse. This is the fuse I was thinking about.

Is that the red piece?
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Old 10-01-2022, 09:29 PM   #10
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Is that the red piece?
No - I circled the fuse in yellow. You might need to click on it a few times to enlarge to max to see it, but there is a little number '2' on it.
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Old 10-01-2022, 09:33 PM   #11
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Got it. Many thanks. Hopefully that will fix it.


Ordered some thermocouplers just in case. I remember one going bad way back once.
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Old 10-02-2022, 07:51 AM   #12
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Richard, thanks for the fuse ID/clarification.
b
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Old 10-02-2022, 08:17 AM   #13
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On one of our trips, the HW heater died on us. All the checking (fuses, couplers, etc) and nothing fixed it. Some research indicated the control boards are a notorious weak point. If the fuse does not fix your issue, do yourself a favor and upgrade it with Dinosaur Electronics replacement board. It worked great and no problems since. The website looks pretty basic, but made in USA, excellent customer service, and obvious upgrade over stock board. They make replacement control boards for almost all rv appliances


https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/
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Old 10-02-2022, 09:02 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Kvsterling View Post
On one of our trips, the HW heater died on us. All the checking (fuses, couplers, etc) and nothing fixed it. Some research indicated the control boards are a notorious weak point. If the fuse does not fix your issue, do yourself a favor and upgrade it with Dinosaur Electronics replacement board. It worked great and no problems since. The website looks pretty basic, but made in USA, excellent customer service, and obvious upgrade over stock board. They make replacement control boards for almost all rv appliances


https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

I think maybe I will plan on just replacing that prophylactically. Thanks!
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Old 10-02-2022, 09:05 AM   #15
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Thanks everyone!

Hopefully, the information provided will get me going again. I really appreciate the helpful, on-point suggestions.
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Old 10-10-2022, 01:38 PM   #16
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The thermo-couple will melt if there is any blow-back from the gas heating tube. It cuts power to the control board and nothing works.

The thermo-couple can be easily by-passed, but only the electric-side of the heater should be used until the heater tube is inspected and cleaned and the thermo fuse is replaced. It maintains safety for the gas-side of the heater.

To troubleshoot, bypass the thermo-couple. If electric side heat now works, the thermo-couple is bad. A different (probably better) test is with a multi-meter and test continuity on the thermo-couple fuse after it is pulled out.

Heater tubes are infamous spider attractions, and once a web is built the ignited gas will blow-back out of the tube. Pull the sheet metal screws and pull the gas tube out and clean out the inside with a bottle brush.

Found all this out in the middle of Wyoming/Montana with nary an RV dealer within 100 miles, but thankfully there was the internet for knowledge and Amazon delivered parts to a campsite in West Yellowstone.

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