Hot water tank pressure release valve super tight

[Rob Gramenz]

My plan was to remove the valve, pour in 50-50 solution of vinegar and water, leave overnight, then drain and flush thru to drainage hole. MY PROBLEM: I'm afraid I will break something, the amount of pressure on my pipe wrench to turn the valve was amazing, and it only moved a 1/4 turn or less before I panicked and gave up. Should I power on, or what? Thanks.

[Turkeybaster]

I had the same experience. My pressure relief valve doesn’t seal that great and drips at times. My plan was to replace it. However when I put a wrench on it, it wouldn’t budge. I used a bigger wrench and it still wouldn’t budge. I too felt like I was going to break something if I cranked on it any harder or used an even bigger wrench. So I just left it as is and tolerate the periodic slow drip.

Maybe someone knows an effective method for removal.

TB

[SeeMore]

1) Spray the threads of the valve with a good penetrating oil and let it sit five plus minutes. 2) Slightly tighten the valve, spray the threads again, and let it sit five + minutes. 3) Loosen the valve (slightly) and spray the threads again as you loosen it.

Spray and repeat a little at a time. You may have to 'work' it back and forth a number of times to get it to start turning freely. It takes patience.

[ROBERT CROSS]

We use it to help drain for winterizing.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't pump your concoction into it.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Bigventure]

Hoser

[ITSNO60]

It's the hardened pipe dope used during assembly. Heat will help soften it somewhat. When you replace, either clean the threads and use fresh dope or replace the valve with fresh dope.

[Rob Gramenz]

Originally Posted by SeeMore

1) Spray the threads of the valve with a good penetrating oil and let it sit five plus minutes. 2) Slightly tighten the valve, spray the threads again, and let it sit five + minutes. 3) Loosen the valve (slightly) and spray the threads again as you loosen it.

Spray and repeat a little at a time. You may have to 'work' it back and forth a number of times to get it to start turning freely. It takes patience.

OK, I'll try that. I believe I've got a bit of patience left over from my last project.

[Rob Gramenz]

No doubt you are right; around the valve was some pretty crusty material; more of it is doubtlessly "gluing" the valve in place.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Keep in mind that the tank is only just so strong. You can indeed put enough force on things to do damage. It really was not designed to be taken apart and put together multiple times. You have risk of issues both pulling stuff off and when putting it back on again.

Better to do as noted above and just pump the "stuff" in through the normal water path. You use a bit more vinegar .... it's way cheaper than a new tank. The whole project will be over a lot faster as well.

Bob

[emelaich01]

We had to replace ours only after about a year when it started leaking. The aluminum of the tank and brass of the valve don't play well together and everything becomes really, really stuck in short order.
I used a propane torch and applied a lot of heat to the valve which helped in removal.

When installing the new valve, I just used a lot of Teflon tape and hand-tightened the valve until it was snug and oriented 'downward' as before.
If you do need to open the tank for occasional flushing, use the Nylon drain plug, also reinstalling it with Teflon tape.