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bhkintx · 10-31-2018, 03:08 PM

Hi,
Hoping someone can help me diagnose this issue we're having with our 2013 25FB Intl. We've been full timing for nearly a year now and just had this new issue arise.

When I turn on the water pump, water immediately starts leaking from the hot water heater pressure release valve. It only happens when the water pump is turned on, not when on city water. It happens when the hot water tank is turned on or off and whether there is hot water or not.

I recently noticed the water pump was acting erratic just before this started happening. It would work initially but if left on, you had to shut off the pump and then turn it back on to make it work. I'm just trying to figure out if this is a water pump issue or a valve issue on the water heater. Again, when on city water, everything works fine.

I searched the forum and could not find this exact issue so I'm hoping some of you pros can help me out here.

Thanks!
Brian

**azflycaster** · 10-31-2018, 03:44 PM

Possibly, the pressure switch on the water pump has failed and the excess water pressure is causing the relief valve to open. The relief valve could also be weak. The relief valve is only a $15 item and an easy replacement. It would be the first thing I would replace.

fran&frank · 10-31-2018, 04:08 PM

I agree with Richard. I'd replace the hot water heater pressure relief valve first because they are cheap and readily available, but given it only happens with the water pump and not city water it seems like the pump may be over pressurizing the system.

AlinCal · 10-31-2018, 04:25 PM

The pressure relief valve is set to 150 psi and I really doubt your pressure pump is capable of that, maybe they are. Pump would probably run continuously if the pressure switch failed. That said it does not make much sense for it to only leak while running the pump only, Is your city water pressure reg set that much lower than the pump output psi?
Anyway I agree with the previous posts and just replace the valve, should not leak unless it hits 150 psi and my guess is it's got some calcium build up and is not sealing as it should.

sb55 · 10-31-2018, 04:30 PM

I had to replace the valve on my 2018 FC. I don’t know why it decided to leak, but it’s a cheap and easy replacement. 3 weeks later, it’s nice and dry.

PatLee · 11-01-2018, 09:53 AM

I'm curious how you discovered the hot water pressure release valve was leaking? Was there water coming from behind the exterior flip-down door? thanks.

cgunning · 11-01-2018, 11:13 AM

We just had the same problem on our 2018 Classic -wonky water pump performance and all. We had the pressure relief valve replaced under warranty and everything works as it should now.

Gleverett · 11-01-2018, 11:56 AM

Before replacing the valve try opening and closing it several times. Sometimes a tiny particle can prevent it from sealing properly.

OTRA15 · 11-01-2018, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gleverett

Before replacing the valve try opening and closing it several times. Sometimes a tiny particle can prevent it from sealing properly.

Ditto.

Brian, do you use a filter in your potable water hose when on city water and when filling the water tank? If not, you may have allowed such tiny particles to get into your system.

This inline filter is typical:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePU...+rv+hose+water

Pump problems can also result from bad water, often in older campgrounds with their own well water.

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- When you winterize the trailer, be sure to use filtered city water to flush flush flush out all the lines, water tank, and water heater holding tank. When you drain the water heater out its access port at the bottom, you shoot a jet of clean city water from the hose's nozzle sprayer up into the access port and try to get any remaining grit to come out. I think they make some kind of wand for this?

Also be sure to inspect the pre-pump filter in the line coming from the water tank. Sediment should be trapped in there if this has been part of your problem.

SSquared · 11-01-2018, 12:50 PM

We had one occasion when our water pump "went nuts" and would not properly shut off. We knew we had a problem when we heard it sounding different. We discovered a considerable amount of water coming out of the water heater pressure relief valve, and also coming out of the body of the city water inlet.

We pulled the fuse for the pump, and after that it worked like normal.

This was in a 2013 25FB. The problem was in 2016.

gypsydad · 11-01-2018, 12:58 PM

This same issue just came up last week, I believe...and a few other times.

Mine failed on my 2017 28' when we first got it. It was pointed out that the pressure valve has a cylinder that can not seal properly for various reasons, causing the leak after the pressure builds up a bit. I was advised to just hit it with a block of wood, or rubber mallet, which worked the first couple times, but ultimately, I did get a new valve and some Teflon plumber tape at Home Depot and replaced. Cheap fix and only took about 10 minuets.

bhkintx · 11-01-2018, 03:19 PM

Yes, it was gushing out when I turned the water pump on.

bhkintx · 11-01-2018, 03:21 PM

Well I replaced the pressure release valve and am having the same problem. It must be a water pump issue.

AlinCal · 11-01-2018, 05:43 PM

Put a pressure guage on it and see. 150 PSI not the best scenario for your system.

OTRA15 · 11-01-2018, 05:53 PM

Brian, did you see my comments in Post #9 about grit in the system, specifically the water tank? If the second PRV released water right away, it raises the likelihood of grit IMO.

You might want to run the pump, and capture the water coming from a faucet in large clear containers. Grit there?

Also, drain the water heater and catch the contents in clear containers. Grit there?

How about the aerators on all the faucets, any grit in them?

Your Airstream's plumbing system would probably let go [someplace] at a pressure lower than 150 PSI IMO, before the PRV releases at that pressure.

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- Logically it is also possible that the second PRV was defective. Was it from the same batch as the first? Maybe you bought an extra at the time.

A W Warn · 11-01-2018, 06:01 PM

There is a pressure sensitive switch on the head of the water pump that should turn the pump off when water pressure reaches ~45-60 psi, depending on the pump you have. You should be able to get a replacement switch for ~$20. (that's about 25% of the cost of a new pump)
It is fairly easy. A few screws and 2 wires to disconnect.

bhkintx · 11-08-2018, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSquared

We had one occasion when our water pump "went nuts" and would not properly shut off. We knew we had a problem when we heard it sounding different. We discovered a considerable amount of water coming out of the water heater pressure relief valve, and also coming out of the body of the city water inlet.

We pulled the fuse for the pump, and after that it worked like normal.

This was in a 2013 25FB. The problem was in 2016.

It sounds like I have the same exact issue (2013 25FB Int'l). I am seeing the same thing (leaking at pressure release valve and at city water inlet). So what fuse did you pull? I pulled the fuse at the panel for the pump and that didn't seem to make a difference. Is there a fuse on the pump? Did you replace the fuse? Did it ever happen again? I was getting ready to replace the water pump but maybe I don't need to.

Sorry for all the questions but I feel like you may have found a simple fix.

Thanks sooo much!

Brian

bhkintx · 11-08-2018, 09:34 AM

Hey Peter,

No noticeable grit anywhere when draining. It sounds like the exact issue SSquared encountered with the same year/model AS! No, I just purchased the new PRV valve so I don't think that's the issue. SSquared said he removed the fuse and that solved it but I've replaced the fuses at both the panel and at the pump and it still happens (leaks at both the PRV and the city water inlet).

I'm beginning to think that it might be the pressure switch as A W Warn mentioned.

Thanks,

Brian

I'm beginning to think

A W Warn · 11-08-2018, 11:31 AM

Another thought:
Maybe, the pressure adjustment screw has vibrated and turned pressure up on it's own.
(I doubt it, but don't cost anything to try).
The screw is on the end of the switch. Turn the screw counter clockwise for lower pressure. There are arrow indicators, but hard to see.
Check out this video>

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2z2Q4oF4Co

OTRA15 · 11-09-2018, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhkintx

. . .
I'm beginning to think that it might be the pressure switch as A W Warn mentioned.
. . .

Thanks for the reply. Please keep us updated. As Alan just posted, that switch has an adjustment screw [which we played with in our FC20 years ago -- just for a look-see].

Good luck,

Peter