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Old 05-27-2022, 12:21 PM   #1
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2018 27' Globetrotter
Evergreen , Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 7
Fresh water pump issue

I winterized last fall using method of blowing out waterlines, faucets, tanks, etc using air pressure. Drained hot water tank. Applied antifreeze to black/grey tanks but not fresh water tank. First trip of the season using pressurized city water was nominal. Hot water, shower, faucets all worked as expected

Second trip (now) I am boondocking. Water pump turns on and stays on as if the system is not pressurizing. Sputtering water at the faucets. Gurgling in the hot water heater.

- the hot water tank is filled. I checked for water via the pressure relief
- not a calcium build-up issue at the faucets. Removed screens from faucets with same results.
- tank drain valves and low point valves are closed
- there is no dripping under the trailer
- both shower hoses are re-connected
- hot water heater bypass valve is in operating position (although Iíve tried both positions)
- water tank is full
- pump is operating electrically (I.e., it turns on and sounds normal)
- the input side of the pump with the screen looks dryÖ. Like no/little water is flowing through. When I remove filter cover, I donít get water pouring out and the tubing is only a little wet. No visible water in the screen.
- with input connected and output disconnected, I expected to take a shower when I turned the pump on, but did not. I am getting some pressurized air coming out suggesting the pump is functional
- I have tightened connections feeding the pump and added plumberís tape so as to seal connections.


I am left to believe the issue is with the pump or the line between the pump and the water tank.

Questions:

Although I feel some pressure from the pump and sputtering at the faucet, could the pump be broken?

Do you have any other ideas to troubleshoot?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-27-2022, 01:29 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OB86;
I winterized last fall using method of blowing out waterlines, faucets, tanks, etc using air pressure. Drained hot water tank. Applied antifreeze to black/grey tanks but not fresh water tank. First trip of the season using pressurized city water was nominal. Hot water, shower, faucets all worked as expected

Second trip (now) I am boondocking. Water pump turns on and stays on as if the system is not pressurizing. Sputtering water at the faucets. Gurgling in the hot water heater.

- the hot water tank is filled. I checked for water via the pressure relief
- not a calcium build-up issue at the faucets. Removed screens from faucets with same results.
- tank drain valves and low point valves are closed
- there is no dripping under the trailer
- both shower hoses are re-connected
- hot water heater bypass valve is in operating position (although Iíve tried both positions)
- water tank is full
- pump is operating electrically (I.e., it turns on and sounds normal)
- the input side of the pump with the screen looks dryÖ. Like no/little water is flowing through. When I remove filter cover, I donít get water pouring out and the tubing is only a little wet. No visible water in the screen.
- with input connected and output disconnected, I expected to take a shower when I turned the pump on, but did not. I am getting some pressurized air coming out suggesting the pump is functional
- I have tightened connections feeding the pump and added plumberís tape so as to seal connections.


I am left to believe the issue is with the pump or the line between the pump and the water tank.

Questions:

Although I feel some pressure from the pump and sputtering at the faucet, could the pump be broken?

Do you have any other ideas to troubleshoot?

Thanks in advance.
1 of 3 things:

1. Air line lines. Run city water and the pump to really get everything cleared out.

2. Need a new washer on the tank side connection at the water pump

3. Bladder in the tank froze and is broken. This can easily happen if you only blow out the lines, and do not feed anti-freez through the pump iteself.
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Old 05-27-2022, 01:50 PM   #3
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Is the water pump winterization switch in the correct position? If not, that would lead to the symptoms you're seeing. That got us first time out this year.

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Old 05-27-2022, 03:27 PM   #4
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Thanks for the reply. Since my original post I hooked up to city water and flushed out the air in the lines. I then switched to pump, hoping the water in the lines would help draw a vacuum and prime the pump. No joy.

I then took another look at the winterizing kit I was not able to install last fall. By removing the strainer section, I was able to install the winterizing valve. I ran the pump to draw in several gallons of water. With the pump still running, I flipped the valve to draw from the tank. No joy again.

I hope it’s one of your more simple causes.
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Old 05-27-2022, 03:28 PM   #5
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After installing the valve, I drew water from an external container to prime the pump and switched it over to normal operation to draw from the freshwater tank. I had no luck.
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Old 05-27-2022, 03:46 PM   #6
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If the bladder froze and cracked within the fresh water tank, would I expect to see dripping when it is filled?
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Old 05-27-2022, 04:17 PM   #7
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I am interested in the answer to this question. I am not aware of any bladder inside the fw tank. There are diaphrams inside the pump that, if they go bad, will make the pump inoperable. Bladder? What bladder?
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Old 05-27-2022, 04:32 PM   #8
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My guess is the pump is either bad or has a leak somewhere. I have 2 ‘must have’ spare parts. A water pump and a propane regulator. Both stop a trip. Get a spare pump and see if it solves the issue. If not, you at least have a good spare. And if it isn’t the pump, maybe a kink in the fresh line to the pump but that is a long shot.
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Old 05-27-2022, 04:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OB86;
If the bladder froze and cracked within the fresh water tank, would I expect to see dripping when it is filled?
bladder is in the pump, not the tank.

Sounds like you froze your pump. Need to fill it with anti-freeze before the winter. blowing out the lines does not protect the pump.
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Old 05-27-2022, 04:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilPeanut;
My guess is the pump is either bad or has a leak somewhere. I have 2 Ďmust haveí spare parts. A water pump and a propane regulator. Both stop a trip. Get a spare pump and see if it solves the issue. If not, you at least have a good spare. And if it isnít the pump, maybe a kink in the fresh line to the pump but that is a long shot.
Doubt it's the fresh water line from the tank. Sounds like a bad pump. $110 fix. I Carry a spare.
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Old 05-27-2022, 05:59 PM   #11
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Check ALL the connections on the inlet side of the pump as well as the filter for tightness. If the pump draws water from th newly installed winterizing kit, then the pump is not the issue. A loose fitting or gassket causing an air leak is the problem. The pump lifts water from the tank by creating a vaccum to draw it into the pump.
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Old 05-27-2022, 06:48 PM   #12
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I agree with CBWELL, if the pump pulled water from the winterizing jug, then it is functioning, at least a little bit. The winterizing kit is pulling against a couple of inches head but the tank is lower maybe a foot or two below the pump. Put your finger over the winterizing suction pipe, does the pump suction feel strong? Or just barely pulling on the finger? If strong, then there is a air leak or cracked fitting between the winterizing valve and the tank that is allowing air into the system, defeating the pumps suction of water from the tank. If weak, then there is an air leak between the pump and winterizing valve or the pump is is partially compromised.
Safe travels.
Fred
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Old 05-27-2022, 07:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OB86 View Post
After installing the valve, I drew water from an external container to prime the pump and switched it over to normal operation to draw from the freshwater tank. I had no luck.
Has the pump ever worked after you installed the winterizing valve?

If not you may have installed the winterizing valve backwards (a problem some had with a backwards install from the factory, that might have been a problem with winterizing not working, don't remember). Possibly an air leak at one of the connections.
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Old 05-27-2022, 08:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malia20 View Post
I agree with CBWELL, if the pump pulled water from the winterizing jug, then it is functioning, at least a little bit. The winterizing kit is pulling against a couple of inches head but the tank is lower maybe a foot or two below the pump. Put your finger over the winterizing suction pipe, does the pump suction feel strong? Or just barely pulling on the finger? If strong, then there is a air leak or cracked fitting between the winterizing valve and the tank that is allowing air into the system, defeating the pumps suction of water from the tank. If weak, then there is an air leak between the pump and winterizing valve or the pump is is partially compromised.
Safe travels.
Fred
Me too.

When I winterize I disc both pump connections. I then attach a 1/2Ē male adaptor with a 2í section of clear poly ( as my head wonít fit in the pumphouse Granted my tank/pickup is in close proximity to the pump,but I blow on the poly back to the tank first listening for gurgling. Gurgling means the tank level is above the pickup and still needs to drain. Repeat as necessary, quiet means line is clear. Same on distribution side, quiet means no h2o between pump and lp. So with current situation with h20 presumably above pickup, blowing to hear gurgles is positive. With some good lungs sucking should indicate line to pick up is good. A long enough line maybe out the door should siphon. Just trying to pin down the supply side. Even if a fitting is cracked it still should siphon or the suck would indicate the pickup/line/connections is operational enough to point somewhere else.
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Old 05-28-2022, 01:38 AM   #15
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Thank you all for the responses. Clarifications on my early posts…

Addition of the winterizing valve was part of the corrective action so as to prime the pump. The valve was not part of the initial problem.

- when added, the valve works as expected. The pump sucked up water to prime itself, but I would not say it was strong or fast. Water did not pull in until I raised the source above the pump.

- I have a new pump on order. I will update status after I return home and install.

- the good news in all this is that I now know how to install the winterizing kit/valve so next Fall I will use antifreeze in addition to blowing out lines.

Update to follow
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Old 05-28-2022, 05:42 AM   #16
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Might be of interest basic water pump testing.

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Old 05-28-2022, 09:13 AM   #17
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Cross threaded pump fitting

Check the suction side pump fitting for any bad threads. I cross threaded mine when I reassembled it following winterization and the pump sputtered at a much reduced flow rate. I didnít realize this until I purchased and installed a new pump. To do this properly, I had to remove the closet floor of our 2018 Globetrotter 27FB.
I also managed to dress up the plastic male pump threads with a brass female fitting and it seems to work but I still kept the new pump installed.
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Old 05-28-2022, 11:16 AM   #18
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Hi

Best guess: The pump is sucking air into the input port. Could be from a loose strainer, could be from other issues. Usually you get a drip here or there to act as a "hint" that there is a problem ....

Bob
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Old 05-28-2022, 11:17 AM   #19
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Another in agreement w/CBWELL. I had the same symptoms this spring and it was a leak in the plumbing on the suction side of the pump. However, with flexible tubing connected to the suction side of the pump my pump would readily draw water from a jug. If yours won't, sounds like the pump.
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Old 05-28-2022, 02:51 PM   #20
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Skurtis44

Quote:
Originally Posted by OB86 View Post
I winterized last fall using method of blowing out waterlines, faucets, tanks, etc using air pressure. Drained hot water tank. Applied antifreeze to black/grey tanks but not fresh water tank. First trip of the season using pressurized city water was nominal. Hot water, shower, faucets all worked as expected

Second trip (now) I am boondocking. Water pump turns on and stays on as if the system is not pressurizing. Sputtering water at the faucets. Gurgling in the hot water heater.

- the hot water tank is filled. I checked for water via the pressure relief
- not a calcium build-up issue at the faucets. Removed screens from faucets with same results.
- tank drain valves and low point valves are closed
- there is no dripping under the trailer
- both shower hoses are re-connected
- hot water heater bypass valve is in operating position (although Iíve tried both positions)
- water tank is full
- pump is operating electrically (I.e., it turns on and sounds normal)
- the input side of the pump with the screen looks dryÖ. Like no/little water is flowing through. When I remove filter cover, I donít get water pouring out and the tubing is only a little wet. No visible water in the screen.
- with input connected and output disconnected, I expected to take a shower when I turned the pump on, but did not. I am getting some pressurized air coming out suggesting the pump is functional
- I have tightened connections feeding the pump and added plumberís tape so as to seal connections.


I am left to believe the issue is with the pump or the line between the pump and the water tank.

Questions:

Although I feel some pressure from the pump and sputtering at the faucet, could the pump be broken?

Do you have any other ideas to troubleshoot?

Thanks in advance.
I had pretty much the same situation this spring when I tried to use my water pump after winterizing and did all the things you did and finally had to take it in for service to get the issue resolved and the service center blew out the waterline between the water pump and the freshwater tank and that resolved the issue. They said there was a lot of buildup i.e. algae mold etc in the water line between the freshwater tank and the water pump. That resolve the issue thank goodness.
Hopefully that will help you also.
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