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09-14-2018, 04:45 PM
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#1
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tracker
1969 23' Safari
crescent city
, California
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 155
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Atwood Water Heater Troubleshooting
I have been setting up my airstream getting ready to hit the road after a long absence ,but I have found that my water heater does not want to work in the electric position not sure yet about the gas position yet. The w.h. was new when installed a few years ago but was only used once . I have power to the element but no heat. Is it possible to bypass the selector switch and run 110 volts to the element just for test purposes? and can the element be changed if bad or does the entire unit have to be replaced? Thanks.
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09-14-2018, 06:39 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Is it an Atwood or Suburban WH? The element can be replaced on either unit.
If you have and know how to use an ohm meter you can check the element for resistance.
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09-20-2018, 03:49 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
2016 19' Flying Cloud
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 155
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Didn't want to create a new thread so bringing this one back to life.
I *think* the electric water heater element on our Atwood water heater has failed. This Atwood is installed on a 2016 19' FC. Propane works fine and heats up water but nil, nada, zip, when on electric only. (And yes, I know element only works when plugged into mains).
I had a quick look at the external portion of the heater and didn't see the water heater element.
Can someone confirm the location of the electrical water heater element?
I have not looked on the other side of the water heater, inside the trailer, as that requires me to pull the bed top off.
To be honest we hardly use the water heater and when we do it's on propane as we are not plugged in but I'd still like it to work correctly, just in case.
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09-20-2018, 04:10 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Look at your other thread on this subject.
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09-20-2018, 04:16 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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You should be able to see the element from the open outside door.
It looks like a big bolt head with a couple of fairly heavy wires connected to it, threaded into the tank in a port near the bottom curve of the tank...
If it's not there, you may have an Atwood without that feature...they do exist. They do tend to burn out easily if the heater is run on electricity without water in the tank.
Replacement 120 volt heating elements are available.
__________________
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'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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10-04-2018, 04:46 PM
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#6
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tracker
1969 23' Safari
crescent city
, California
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracker
I have been setting up my airstream getting ready to hit the road after a long absence ,but I have found that my water heater does not want to work in the electric position not sure yet about the gas position yet. The w.h. was new when installed a few years ago but was only used once . I have power to the element but no heat. Is it possible to bypass the selector switch and run 110 volts to the element just for test purposes? and can the element be changed if bad or does the entire unit have to be replaced? Thanks.
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Sorry I didn't say before but this is an atwood GC-10A 10 gal/ With the heater in the trailer it seemed that the element did not have continuity but now that I have removed the heater and have it on the bench it does. I had power from the breaker to the element while in the trailer . Anyone have any ideas what to look at now?
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10-04-2018, 04:58 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
2016 28' International
2015 28' International
2013 28' International
Las Vegas
, Nevada
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 234
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If the water heater is left empty and turned on with electric, then the element will become overheated and short out. There is a resistance test to perform on the element terminals, if there is no resistance between the terminals, then the element is shorted. It is very easy to remove and replace the element and relatively cheap also. I had an element that burned up and shorted to the interior side of the tank and would then trip the GFCI breaker at the power tower. If the element is still installed make sure there is NO continuity between the terminals and the water heater itself, if there is continuity then you know the element is wasted.
Good luck!
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10-04-2018, 05:01 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
2016 28' International
2015 28' International
2013 28' International
Las Vegas
, Nevada
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy
Didn't want to create a new thread so bringing this one back to life.
I *think* the electric water heater element on our Atwood water heater has failed. This Atwood is installed on a 2016 19' FC. Propane works fine and heats up water but nil, nada, zip, when on electric only. (And yes, I know element only works when plugged into mains).
I had a quick look at the external portion of the heater and didn't see the water heater element.
Can someone confirm the location of the electrical water heater element?
I have not looked on the other side of the water heater, inside the trailer, as that requires me to pull the bed top off.
To be honest we hardly use the water heater and when we do it's on propane as we are not plugged in but I'd still like it to work correctly, just in case.
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The element is located on most Atwood units at the front next to the winterization valve (inside the coach). There are 4 screws holding it in and 2 wires going to it. Bottom left corner of the heater assembly.
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10-04-2018, 05:03 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
2016 28' International
2015 28' International
2013 28' International
Las Vegas
, Nevada
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracker
Sorry I didn't say before but this is an atwood GC-10A 10 gal/ With the heater in the trailer it seemed that the element did not have continuity but now that I have removed the heater and have it on the bench it does. I had power from the breaker to the element while in the trailer . Anyone have any ideas what to look at now?
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You're testing for resistance not continuity, if you have continuity across the terminals, then it is shorted and needs replacement.
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