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07-10-2007, 11:48 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
Devils Lake
, North Dakota
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 169
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Atwood to Suburban Water Heater
My 1973 has an Atwood heater that is leaking so I am guessing it's not repairable and needs to be replaced.
I am interested in the Suburban but I see that the rough opening requirements are only 12.75" x 12.75" which looks quite a bit smaller than the Atwood in the trailer now.
Has anyone retrofitted these?? Or am I stuck with replacing with another Atwood??
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07-10-2007, 12:36 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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Just curious - is there some reason you don't want to use Atwood....?
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07-10-2007, 02:40 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Vintage Kin Owner
Vintage Kin Owner
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Greeeneville
, Tennessee
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,301
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Atwood-- Airstream uses them on current models
As a tech, I have worked on many water heaters. I prefer the simplicity of the Atwood. It is most near a perfect replacement and will not have to be rigged in like a Suburban model would.
__________________
Kevin with Baity the Lab/Pointer //------AIR # 7303------\\ WBCCI 17109 visit my restoration blog at:
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07-10-2007, 02:47 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,018
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Yeah, what HE said
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin
Just curious - is there some reason you don't want to use Atwood....?
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One of these days my 40 year-old Atwood will wear out, and I am also curious as to why I might not want to purchase a new Atwood.
Thanks,
Tom
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07-10-2007, 03:30 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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I replaced my Bowen with a Suburban rather than an Atwood. I just think aluminum should go on the outside, not the inside.
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07-10-2007, 03:37 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,018
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Please - tell me more
Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I replaced my Bowen with a Suburban rather than an Atwood. I just think aluminum should go on the outside, not the inside.
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Please elaborate.
What do you feel is wrong with an aluminum interior in a water heater? I see a "plus" in that it will not rust out like iron.
A "minus" would be the shore water leaching out aluminum products from the tank which could contribute to early Alzheimers disease.
A "minus" would be the shore water leaching out aluminum products from the tank which could contribute to early Alzheimers disease.
I'm sure there's a "minus", but I can't think of one.
Tom
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07-10-2007, 04:48 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
Devils Lake
, North Dakota
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 169
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I can get a deal on a Suburban DSI Electric/Propane. Like $200 less than a comparable Atwood.
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07-10-2007, 06:45 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
A "minus" would be the shore water leaching out aluminum products from the tank which could contribute to early Alzheimers disease.
Tom
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That's my main concern. Why take the risk if it's avoidable.
I'm not recommending people rip out their Atwood water heaters. Just drink bottled water.
Keep the aluminum on the outside.
When I ordered my new water heater, Jevin gave me a choice; same price for either the Atwood or the Suburban. He recommended the Suburban because of fewer warranty claims. I liked the slightly faster recovery rate also.
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07-10-2007, 07:30 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
Devils Lake
, North Dakota
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 169
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The faster recovery rate is substantial 7 gallons to 10 gallons per hour.
But back to my original question..........
Has anyone retrofit a Suburban into an Atwood hole?? If so, How did you fill in the opening?
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07-10-2007, 09:33 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
That's my main concern. Why take the risk if it's avoidable.
I'm not recommending people rip out their Atwood water heaters. Just drink bottled water.
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How often do people drink hot water from the tap?
Having grown up with a water softener, it's not something I ever consider doing.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
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07-11-2007, 01:01 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundance
The faster recovery rate is substantial 7 gallons to 10 gallons per hour.
But back to my original question..........
Has anyone retrofit a Suburban into an Atwood hole?? If so, How did you fill in the opening?
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You can check with any RV parts supplier that sells Suburban. There should be a retro-fit kit that will allow you to fill in the gap at the sides due to the different shape. You also might have to trim the top to allow space for the taller Suburban.
If you're worried about the aluminum tank, why don't you forgoe the tank completely and go tankless! The RV-500, while a bit pricey, is the ultimate solution to Alzheimers(no aluminum tank), low hot water recovery rates (endless instant hot water) AND wasted propane (only on when there is a hot water demand) to keep the water tank heated.
I have one in my CCD and have been using one in a MoHo since 2000.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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07-11-2007, 10:40 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
Devils Lake
, North Dakota
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 169
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I have zero worries about the aluminum tank. As said above........ Its for hot water and I don't drink or cook with it.
I'll check on the retro fit kit and if it gets too wild I'll have to run with an Atwood.
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