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04-18-2021, 08:55 PM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
2021 19' Bambi
San Francisco
, California
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 410
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Any advice? Hot water comes and goes after winterizing problems
So, I had a bit of a winterizing issue, I posted about it. A PEX clamp burst off under the sink and another near the pump. Paid $175 an hour and a local RV shop got that fixed in two hours. This weekend I went camping (2015 model with the gas and the electric hot water heater, not the instant on). Since the RV shop “dewinterized” for me, they told me they ran air through the lines and got the hot water heater going...but it’s not quite going. Tons of air to release when we turned on the lines and hot water seems to come and go, lasts maybe one minute. Had to use the camp showers this weekend. I drained the water heater because was concerned the shop used the water from the tank with pink stuff in it, but that didn’t seem to resolve. I get about 1 minute or less of very hot sometimes, luke warm sometimes water. Bad thermostat unrelated to my wintering problems? Or any idea of something else that could be going on before I take the AS back to the shop at the $175 rate?
Any input from someone with a similar experience or knowledge would be appreciated. Thanks [emoji120]
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04-18-2021, 09:06 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 2,592
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Could be your mixing valve. I just went through this. It’s a pretty simple repair.
__________________
Dennis
Past:
Airstream International Serenity 23FB
Newmar Ventana 3715
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04-18-2021, 09:55 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2021 30' Flying Cloud
2020 25' International
minneapolis
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,468
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Before replacing the mixing valve.
1. Turn off the water heater
2. wait till it cools
3. close the bypass valve
4. pull the heaters drain plug
5. open bypass and flush the heater for 2 or 3 minutes
6. close bypass
7. replace drain plug
8. Open bypass
9. Turn on both electric & gas
Wait 40 minutes and see if you have hot water.
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04-22-2021, 04:01 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member
2021 19' Bambi
San Francisco
, California
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1000pre
Before replacing the mixing valve.
1. Turn off the water heater
2. wait till it cools
3. close the bypass valve
4. pull the heaters drain plug
5. open bypass and flush the heater for 2 or 3 minutes
6. close bypass
7. replace drain plug
8. Open bypass
9. Turn on both electric & gas
Wait 40 minutes and see if you have hot water.
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Thanks for the tips, didn’t work for me though, but I tried it!
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04-22-2021, 04:09 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Starting on page one here . . . to control the flow of variables . . . sorry for any redundancy.
Don't worry about hot water yet IMO.
Is all of the air purged out of your hot and cold pipes?
-- faucets
-- shower heads [including outside]
-- toilet
-- spray hose at galley sink
-- any AS OEM hose bibs etc. in your lower storage spaces
-- any odd-ball after-market add-on plumbing gizmos
-- any water/air pressure "accumulators"
-- etc.
With the fresh water tank full of good clean [filtered] water, turn the pump on and let it build up system pressure until it turns off.
Does the pump stay off for 30 minutes without kicking back on? If the pump comes on and off, you have a leak someplace IMO. Need to find the leak.
Please confirm.
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04-22-2021, 04:17 PM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
2021 19' Bambi
San Francisco
, California
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 410
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Could it be this simple?
https://youtu.be/_Pju98QXYIw
Can anyone confirm that this is the position the Atwood furnace valve should be turned to when in use?
It was turned to “open” so I just assumed that was right. Couldn’t quite recall the position it was in and mechanics messed with it and said I was ready to go so I just assumed it should have been turned with the line and not against it.
Anyway, I have turned it this direction. Maybe that will fix it...should know here in an hour or so I guess.
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04-22-2021, 04:20 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Please see Post #5 if you want to start on page one, in order to manage the variables in a logical fashion IMO.
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04-22-2021, 04:22 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2017 28' International
Jim Falls
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2,308
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My guess it is your mixing valve. Sediments can build up on the sensor that causes it to just turn off the hot water. My suggestion is to take it off, clean out the screens real well, and soak it in white vinegar for about 2 hours. Then put it back on and see what happens. This worked for me.
You will need a good small pipe wrench and plumbers tape. Regular wrenches should work for the other fittings. Make sure it is on their tight when you put it back on, and that all the fittings are at the same angle.
Hopefully that works if nothing else does.
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04-22-2021, 04:29 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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04-22-2021, 07:12 PM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member
2021 19' Bambi
San Francisco
, California
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 410
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Also, can anyone explain what these valves do? I grasp that the difficult to turn and reach plastic valve is the fresh water drain. But, what are the easy to turn and reach valves with the nice red plastic handles?...shaking my head
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04-22-2021, 07:13 PM
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#12
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4 Rivet Member
2021 19' Bambi
San Francisco
, California
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15
Starting on page one here . . . to control the flow of variables . . . sorry for any redundancy.
Don't worry about hot water yet IMO.
Is all of the air purged out of your hot and cold pipes?
-- faucets
-- shower heads [including outside]
-- toilet
-- spray hose at galley sink
-- any AS OEM hose bibs etc. in your lower storage spaces
-- any odd-ball after-market add-on plumbing gizmos
-- any water/air pressure "accumulators"
-- etc.
With the fresh water tank full of good clean [filtered] water, turn the pump on and let it build up system pressure until it turns off.
Does the pump stay off for 30 minutes without kicking back on? If the pump comes on and off, you have a leak someplace IMO. Need to find the leak.
Please confirm.
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Completed these steps tonight. And yes, the pump shuts off. Appreciate your input.
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04-22-2021, 07:16 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Thanks . . . so that eliminates some odd-ball variables . . . good to know. Is that last valve handle in Post #11 a low-point drain? Any details in your owner's manual?
Guess the mixing valve is your candidate for hot water problems, at this point.
Good luck,
Peter
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04-22-2021, 07:29 PM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member
2021 19' Bambi
San Francisco
, California
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15
Thanks . . . so that eliminates some odd-ball variables . . . good to know. Is that last valve handle in Post #11 a low-point drain? Any details in your owner's manual?
Guess the mixing valve is your candidate for hot water problems, at this point.
Good luck,
Peter
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He’s probably right, but before I go there. I am suspicious of the valves, which direction the inside valve should be turned, and the possibility that the RV mechanic who is “the best in the state” may have gotten RV antifreeze in my hot water heater and if so what that might have done.
I hope someone understands what these valves are and can educate me.
Oh, and as far as the manual goes, ha ha ha, the very poorly written with many spelling and grammatical error factory manual is about 30 pages and useless outside of very basic education, the cover is pretty though [emoji23]
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04-22-2021, 07:36 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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AF in the water heater would not have caused any problems IMO. Just flush the heck out of it with good clean water to reduce any possible chemical risks to you.
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04-23-2021, 03:55 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2019 30' International
Pennsylvania
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,241
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While de-winterizing this year had hot water for a brief period then it would turn lukewarm. First time it ever happened in 5 years. It was air in the lines.
I included the low point drains in terms of opening them briefly and then closing them to purge air. Also ran the pump while connected to city water, both at same time. Opened and closed all faucets etc. several times to purge air. Outside shower and toilet flush included. Finally the air was out and we were in business.
__________________
If you ain't havin' fun you ain't doin' it right
2017 Ford CCSB F250 XLT 6.2L Gas 4x4 4:30 rear Leer Topper Ruby Red
2019 International Serenity 30 Rear Twin
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04-23-2021, 04:04 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Thanks for the confirmation that air alone might have been one root cause here [per Post #5] . . . that variable has been eliminated apparently -- "purged?"
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04-23-2021, 06:18 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 2,592
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[QUOTE=Spartanguy;2486304]Also, can anyone explain what these valves do? I grasp that the difficult to turn and reach plastic valve is the fresh water drain. But, what are the easy to turn and reach valves with the nice red plastic handles?...shaking my head Attachment 393917
The red handled valves underneath your Airstream are your low point drain valves.
__________________
Dennis
Past:
Airstream International Serenity 23FB
Newmar Ventana 3715
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04-23-2021, 07:53 AM
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#19
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Spokane
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,858
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Spartanguy, the answer to your post #7 is yes, it is that simple. I have a 2006 and it has the three valve bypass set up like you see in the link you posted. I have no experience with a "mixing valve" but it sounds like this could be a problem.
If you have a bypass system, take a look at that. My brother called me once when he was out camping and had the same problem you shared. Found out the bypass valve was not shut. Easy peasy fix.
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04-23-2021, 09:04 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Bingo!
Spartanguy please review that YT video in your Post #7 [hot link in blue], and confirm that you have the same "bypass valve" -- not a "mixing valve" per other posts -- and that your "bypass valve" is now closed - perpendicular to the pipe.
The YouTube "bypass valve" photo is attached at the bottom of this post.
____________________________________________
The following photo you attached to Post #7 is a different valve, which may still be an issue, is probably your "mixing valve" IMO:
_________________________________________________
The following attachment is the "bypass valve" photo from the YouTube video above, in the correct "closed" position IMO.
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