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Old 04-18-2021, 08:55 PM   #1
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Any advice? Hot water comes and goes after winterizing problems

So, I had a bit of a winterizing issue, I posted about it. A PEX clamp burst off under the sink and another near the pump. Paid $175 an hour and a local RV shop got that fixed in two hours. This weekend I went camping (2015 model with the gas and the electric hot water heater, not the instant on). Since the RV shop “dewinterized” for me, they told me they ran air through the lines and got the hot water heater going...but it’s not quite going. Tons of air to release when we turned on the lines and hot water seems to come and go, lasts maybe one minute. Had to use the camp showers this weekend. I drained the water heater because was concerned the shop used the water from the tank with pink stuff in it, but that didn’t seem to resolve. I get about 1 minute or less of very hot sometimes, luke warm sometimes water. Bad thermostat unrelated to my wintering problems? Or any idea of something else that could be going on before I take the AS back to the shop at the $175 rate?

Any input from someone with a similar experience or knowledge would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 04-18-2021, 09:06 PM   #2
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Could be your mixing valve. I just went through this. It’s a pretty simple repair.
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Old 04-18-2021, 09:55 PM   #3
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Before replacing the mixing valve.
1. Turn off the water heater
2. wait till it cools
3. close the bypass valve
4. pull the heaters drain plug
5. open bypass and flush the heater for 2 or 3 minutes
6. close bypass
7. replace drain plug
8. Open bypass
9. Turn on both electric & gas
Wait 40 minutes and see if you have hot water.
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Old 04-22-2021, 04:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1000pre View Post
Before replacing the mixing valve.
1. Turn off the water heater
2. wait till it cools
3. close the bypass valve
4. pull the heaters drain plug
5. open bypass and flush the heater for 2 or 3 minutes
6. close bypass
7. replace drain plug
8. Open bypass
9. Turn on both electric & gas
Wait 40 minutes and see if you have hot water.


Thanks for the tips, didn’t work for me though, but I tried it!
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Old 04-22-2021, 04:09 PM   #5
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Starting on page one here . . . to control the flow of variables . . . sorry for any redundancy.

Don't worry about hot water yet IMO.

Is all of the air purged out of your hot and cold pipes?
-- faucets
-- shower heads [including outside]
-- toilet
-- spray hose at galley sink
-- any AS OEM hose bibs etc. in your lower storage spaces
-- any odd-ball after-market add-on plumbing gizmos
-- any water/air pressure "accumulators"
-- etc.

With the fresh water tank full of good clean [filtered] water, turn the pump on and let it build up system pressure until it turns off.

Does the pump stay off for 30 minutes without kicking back on? If the pump comes on and off, you have a leak someplace IMO. Need to find the leak.

Please confirm.
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Old 04-22-2021, 04:15 PM   #6
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PS -- Is this your winterizing thread? There may be clues there IMO -- TBD:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f45...re-221587.html
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Old 04-22-2021, 04:17 PM   #7
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Could it be this simple?

https://youtu.be/_Pju98QXYIw

Can anyone confirm that this is the position the Atwood furnace valve should be turned to when in use?

It was turned to “open” so I just assumed that was right. Couldn’t quite recall the position it was in and mechanics messed with it and said I was ready to go so I just assumed it should have been turned with the line and not against it.

Anyway, I have turned it this direction. Maybe that will fix it...should know here in an hour or so I guess.

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Old 04-22-2021, 04:20 PM   #8
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Please see Post #5 if you want to start on page one, in order to manage the variables in a logical fashion IMO.
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Old 04-22-2021, 04:22 PM   #9
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My guess it is your mixing valve. Sediments can build up on the sensor that causes it to just turn off the hot water. My suggestion is to take it off, clean out the screens real well, and soak it in white vinegar for about 2 hours. Then put it back on and see what happens. This worked for me.

You will need a good small pipe wrench and plumbers tape. Regular wrenches should work for the other fittings. Make sure it is on their tight when you put it back on, and that all the fittings are at the same angle.

Hopefully that works if nothing else does.
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Old 04-22-2021, 04:29 PM   #10
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PS2 -- FYI a recent mixing valve thread:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ve-204695.html

FYI
FWIW
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Old 04-22-2021, 07:12 PM   #11
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Also, can anyone explain what these valves do? I grasp that the difficult to turn and reach plastic valve is the fresh water drain. But, what are the easy to turn and reach valves with the nice red plastic handles?...shaking my head Click image for larger version

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Old 04-22-2021, 07:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Starting on page one here . . . to control the flow of variables . . . sorry for any redundancy.

Don't worry about hot water yet IMO.

Is all of the air purged out of your hot and cold pipes?
-- faucets
-- shower heads [including outside]
-- toilet
-- spray hose at galley sink
-- any AS OEM hose bibs etc. in your lower storage spaces
-- any odd-ball after-market add-on plumbing gizmos
-- any water/air pressure "accumulators"
-- etc.

With the fresh water tank full of good clean [filtered] water, turn the pump on and let it build up system pressure until it turns off.

Does the pump stay off for 30 minutes without kicking back on? If the pump comes on and off, you have a leak someplace IMO. Need to find the leak.

Please confirm.


Completed these steps tonight. And yes, the pump shuts off. Appreciate your input.
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Old 04-22-2021, 07:16 PM   #13
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Thanks . . . so that eliminates some odd-ball variables . . . good to know. Is that last valve handle in Post #11 a low-point drain? Any details in your owner's manual?

Guess the mixing valve is your candidate for hot water problems, at this point.

Good luck,

Peter
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Old 04-22-2021, 07:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Thanks . . . so that eliminates some odd-ball variables . . . good to know. Is that last valve handle in Post #11 a low-point drain? Any details in your owner's manual?

Guess the mixing valve is your candidate for hot water problems, at this point.

Good luck,

Peter


He’s probably right, but before I go there. I am suspicious of the valves, which direction the inside valve should be turned, and the possibility that the RV mechanic who is “the best in the state” may have gotten RV antifreeze in my hot water heater and if so what that might have done.

I hope someone understands what these valves are and can educate me.

Oh, and as far as the manual goes, ha ha ha, the very poorly written with many spelling and grammatical error factory manual is about 30 pages and useless outside of very basic education, the cover is pretty though
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Old 04-22-2021, 07:36 PM   #15
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AF in the water heater would not have caused any problems IMO. Just flush the heck out of it with good clean water to reduce any possible chemical risks to you.
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Old 04-23-2021, 03:55 AM   #16
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While de-winterizing this year had hot water for a brief period then it would turn lukewarm. First time it ever happened in 5 years. It was air in the lines.

I included the low point drains in terms of opening them briefly and then closing them to purge air. Also ran the pump while connected to city water, both at same time. Opened and closed all faucets etc. several times to purge air. Outside shower and toilet flush included. Finally the air was out and we were in business.
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Old 04-23-2021, 04:04 AM   #17
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Thanks for the confirmation that air alone might have been one root cause here [per Post #5] . . . that variable has been eliminated apparently -- "purged?"
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Old 04-23-2021, 06:18 AM   #18
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[QUOTE=Spartanguy;2486304]Also, can anyone explain what these valves do? I grasp that the difficult to turn and reach plastic valve is the fresh water drain. But, what are the easy to turn and reach valves with the nice red plastic handles?...shaking my head Attachment 393917

The red handled valves underneath your Airstream are your low point drain valves.
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Old 04-23-2021, 07:53 AM   #19
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Spartanguy, the answer to your post #7 is yes, it is that simple. I have a 2006 and it has the three valve bypass set up like you see in the link you posted. I have no experience with a "mixing valve" but it sounds like this could be a problem.


If you have a bypass system, take a look at that. My brother called me once when he was out camping and had the same problem you shared. Found out the bypass valve was not shut. Easy peasy fix.
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Old 04-23-2021, 09:04 AM   #20
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Bingo!

Spartanguy please review that YT video in your Post #7 [hot link in blue], and confirm that you have the same "bypass valve" -- not a "mixing valve" per other posts -- and that your "bypass valve" is now closed - perpendicular to the pipe.

The YouTube "bypass valve" photo is attached at the bottom of this post.
____________________________________________

The following photo you attached to Post #7 is a different valve, which may still be an issue, is probably your "mixing valve" IMO:


_________________________________________________

The following attachment is the "bypass valve" photo from the YouTube video above, in the correct "closed" position IMO.
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