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Old 05-10-2018, 02:01 PM   #21
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Thanks Steve. I had already ordered new valves since I thought maybe the black valve was broken somehow. I have inspected it now that it is out and the longer it stayed out, the harder it got to operate. I can't move either valve now.

I will disassemble the valves and see if there is one I can save as a spare. I forgot they are glued, but the black valve is glued to an elbow with a flexible coupling between it and a piece of pipe that is the only one I may be able to save.

I had already converted to a Valterra end fitting on the way home from picking up the trailer.

I will cut the pan while I have it out and make a cover so if I ever have to do this again it will be simpler.

Thanks,

Al
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:10 PM   #22
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Now I Know Why I Shouldn't Have Done This....

The axle tech came out the next day. We slacked the bolts and dropped the axle and the pan slipped out from under the axle flange. Removing the valve assembly was simple with the pan out of the way. I have now cut away the front corners of the pan and will fill the holes with a slanted piece of galvanized steel left over from the access panel material. Hopefully the pan will go back in without any problems.

I laid the valve assembly on the pan and marked the outline as the boundary of the access panel. I had bought the electric shear from HF but I had to use a abrasive wheel to cut the flange and the corners. I don't see how I would have done this with the pan in place. I bought a sheet of galvanized steel and took it to a friend's shop who used a sheet metal brake to double up the flange and bend up the side. Then I cut away everything that didn't look like an access panel.

There was a comedy of errors rebuilding the drain assembly. I ordered everything in ABS from Amazon. Unfortunately I accidentally ordered a 3" Y instead of a T, but it didn't matter because Amazon sent a 2" fitting that was marked as a 3". I decided that, with the right cement, I could use PVC so I sent DW to get a T, but I didn't realize that I needed the "long sweep" version. On her third trip to Lowes she just bought one of every 3" fitting and I finally got everything put together.

Then the rain started. And continued. And will continue for the rest of the week.

While I was in there I pulled the "No Fuss Flush". It was completely clogged. I cleaned it out and reinstalled it in a short period with no rain falling.

I still have to install the valves, the pan, and the access panel, bleed the brakes, and put on the new leg and jackscrew and reinstall the stabilizer jack that got left down when we left our unplanned stop to drain the black tank in preparation for the valve replacement.

This Airstreaming stuff is fun!

Al
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:49 AM   #23
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Sounds like Al 6 bandaids 0.

Pics?
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:55 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Sounds like Al 6 bandaids 0.

Pics?
It was raining. Pics today....
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:14 PM   #25
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OK, Pics are here.

Here's the pan with the access hole cut in and the cover laying in it for fit check. Note the cut off corners to get around the corners the factory cut (that's a joke, son) when they bolted the axles on top of (actually under) the pan.
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Here's the old and new comparison.
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Here's the dump system installed for fit check. I think I'm going to add the "auxiliary valve" on the output. My 25 had one and I liked it. One more trip to the store....
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And then the rains came (again)

Al
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:33 PM   #26
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ABS vs PVC

As far as I can tell, the main differences between the two are:

Compared to PVC (Polyvinyl chloride), ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is:
- lighter in weight,
- can stand colder temperatures
- is slightly stronger
- goes together with simple ABS cement (no primer needed) and sets quickly
- used almost exclusively for drains, rarely supply
- degrades in direct sunlight (UV)
- usually costs less
- not easily found in stock at the big box stores.

That's what I found when I was redoing my galley drain plumbing this spring. I ordered ABS via Lowe's website and it was shipped free to my local store in a day or two, usually.
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:11 PM   #27
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Thanks Scott. I started with all ABS but had to order it as I could not find it at either big box or small local plumbing suppliers. I found pretty much the same things as you except the source I used said PVC was stronger, and ABS couldn't stand heat as well. ABS DWV is two thin ABS pipes with a foam core in between. In this application, I don't think the differences matter. I also found sources that said code did not approve joining PVC to ABS and sources that said it was approved using transition cement. Those sources also said you could use multi-purpose cement, but inspectors wanted to see the green dye from the transition cement. I used multi-purpose cement that said it was for PVC, CPVC and ABS. I primed the PVC but not the ABS. I have used PVC for years in sprinkler systems, never used primer, and never had a joint failure. I guess I will use primer from now on.

Al
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:40 PM   #28
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I'd be surprised if the PVC gives you problems.

Yeah, the thing about the codes is they change from county to county, so what's an RV'er to do?

I think the folks that set the codes are likely behind the dearth of ABS in the big-box stores. PVC seems to have settled in as the material most likely to pass more codes in more places nationwide, where ABS in some places requires painting, or being buried, for instance. Maybe the PVC folks paid off all the county inspectors nationwide, or the gubment put in some mind control chemkils in that there plastic pipe.
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