Tank status indicators not working in 2014 International

[hoyboy]

Hello all. I've read a number of threads here about tank sensors and the indicators showing false readings. Mine is a slightly different issue — no readings whatsoever. When I power on the display panel, it cycles through its initial status readings, but the gray water or black water lights don't even illuminate. And once the startup cycle is complete, I get a battery reading and that's it. No lights for either tank. I'd expect them to be illuminated at the very least. Any thoughts? A wiring harness? The display unit? I find it odd that both tank indicators have simply given up.

[Ray Eklund]

Probably the first question: Did it 'use to work'?

Our 2019 seem to have accurate Battery Voltages. The reading would vary with the amount of sunlight on our panels mounted on top of the trailer and the loose panel I moved with the sun. Probably the better of the THREE readings.

Earlier this Summer our Black and Grey readings displayed fractional parts of the numerals. Our local Airstream Dealer replaced the unit and they are just... perfect.

The Volume of the Black and Grey tanks seem to indicate MORE, than less in the tank. Maybe so owners do not overfill their tanks. Take five gallon water containers and pour down the toilet and five gallons down the sink. Take notes... your homework for the day. We are all curious to know, as well.

(You have Grey to grey and Black to black separate systems. I have heard new models add Shower Water into the Black. FYI)

Then take a plastic bucket and determine after reading the meter as 100% full.. what changes after removing 5 gallons at a time.

This is the only way I know to be sure. We do not believe these to be accurate within 10% and leave it at that. When the Fresh Water Tank is FULL... it says 100% and remains at 100% for some time.

Your guess is to experiment by adding and subtracting and them POST your results.

[hoyboy]

Yep, they both used to work. I cleaned both tanks with Happy Camper repeatedly just to make sure. Nothing. I don't get any readings whatsoever.

[Cyclist]

We full timed for three years beginning in 2013 with our new Airstream. The black tank worked for a while and then stopped (erroneous reading and then nothing). No problem with the black tank, just look down the hole. The grey tank sensor worked reasonably well for about five or six years and then a year or two ago, it too went dark. I did try a tank cleaner with no luck but I might try again.

The water tank sensor seems fine still as does the battery sensor. This seems to be a constant issue with the Micro Pulse sensors.

[GotTaGo]

After 3 years of a non-working MicroPulse system, I’ve just pulled it out and installed the SeeLevel 709-P3 package. It works great and I feel as if I’ve finally entered the modern world!

Self install is doable if you’re handy.

[hoyboy]

Did you use the existing MicroPulse wiring, or fish new SeeLevel wiring through? Did you have to do anything special for the water pump control wiring?

[kscherzi]

Its possible to reuse the micropulse wiring, some splicing is needed. I ran new because I could. You might be able to run your pump directly through the Seelevel panel as Micropulse does, though (at least when I got mine) the Seelevel switch is smaller and capable of fewer amps. They recommend using a relay (automotive type), which I did, installed next to the water pump.

[hoyboy]

Can you shoot me a link to the type of relay you installed?

[GotTaGo]

Originally Posted by hoyboy

Can you shoot me a link to the type of relay you installed?

[URL] https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[\URL]

I didn’t need the relay since my installed pump only draws 7.5 amps. The model label on the pump gives you the draw specs.

[kscherzi]

I used this relay. Standard automotive relay. Any auto parts store has them too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[tyggeln]

Originally Posted by GotTaGo

After 3 years of a non-working MicroPulse system, I’ve just pulled it out and installed the SeeLevel 709-P3 package. It works great and I feel as if I’ve finally entered the modern world!

Self install is doable if you’re handy.

I'm pretty handy, but usually some guidance is required. I presume the new panel would go right where the Micropulse was...so pump wiring is not a problem. Even if you need to add a relay, you just do that at the pump.

My concern for collateral damage comes from the way the sensors operate. The legacy operate as pressure sensors at the bottom of the "water" column. Fresh is somehwere buried under my floor between the axles...so I need to access the sides of each tank, then fish or reuse wires from there. So how do you access the sides of each tank?

Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer.

[GotTaGo]

Originally Posted by tyggeln

I'm pretty handy, but usually some guidance is required. I presume the new panel would go right where the Micropulse was...so pump wiring is not a problem. Even if you need to add a relay, you just do that at the pump.



My concern for collateral damage comes from the way the sensors operate. The legacy operate as pressure sensors at the bottom of the "water" column. Fresh is somehwere buried under my floor between the axles...so I need to access the sides of each tank, then fish or reuse wires from there. So how do you access the sides of each tank?



Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer.

The SeeLevel panel will install where the current MicroPulse panel is now. Note that the SeeLevel panel is smaller than the MicroPulse. You’ll either need to create a plate to cover the hole before you install the new panel (I used a piece of black plexiglass the same color as the new panel), or you can buy a filler panel from SeeLevel.

To install the tank sensors, the easiest way to do so is to cut an access hole in the underneath tank covers. For my 28’ International (rear bedroom), the hole I cut by the dump valve end of the cover allowed me to access both my gray and black tanks.

I completely dropped my fresh tank to install the sensor. In hindsight, I should have just cut an access hole.

If you decide to drop the fresh water tank, find the under floor access inside of your AS to where your exterior fill hose connects to the tank. Unhook that connection before you drop the tank.

Use the existing wires that go to the current sensors for the SeeLevel sensors. In my case, I connected the black and gray sensor to the same existing wire, and the fresh water sensor to the current water tank sensor wire. I then joined those 2 wires together behind the panel into a single sensor wire. SeeLevel wants all sensors on a single wire run.

[hoyboy]

Do you have a photo or diagram of where you cut the access hole by the dump valve, and the size of the hole? Is it like a 12"x12" square you need to cut? Something smaller?

[tyggeln]

Thank you GotaGo for the priming knowledge. Nice to see you have nearly same model as mine, just one year off. I probably wont need a aux relay either.

I see that they offer a gasket for mounting the panel, as well as a plastic extension panel to cover a bigger hole. I guess if you get the panel, you won't need the gasket.

I also went to the website and looked at the wiring; a couple of splices to ties the grounds together is what they call for. You can do that near the tanks, but I don;t see a reason that you can't do that up at the panel where access is easier.

As for getting to the tanks, I guess access needs to be gained to the black and grey tanks through the galvanized pan. Here is a link to a video showing similar installation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXiTx1LZb20

Does it seem that you can either just drop the pan and get easy access to the grey/black tanks instead of making holes then doing a repair? I think I'll probably drop the fresh tank...now is the time to make these repairs as I used all my fresh water and dumped black/grey after getting back from evacuation due to the CZU Complex fire.

But time is limited....I've got to get ready for a trip to Grand Canyon in mid November.

Cheers!

Chris

[GotTaGo]

Originally Posted by tyggeln

I see that they offer a gasket for mounting the panel, as well as a plastic extension panel to cover a bigger hole. I guess if you get the panel, you won't need the gasket.



I also went to the website and looked at the wiring; a couple of splices to ties the grounds together is what they call for. You can do that near the tanks, but I don;t see a reason that you can't do that up at the panel where access is easier.



As for getting to the tanks, I guess access needs to be gained to the black and grey tanks through the galvanized pan.

Does it seem that you can either just drop the pan and get easy access to the grey/black tanks instead of making holes then doing a repair?

I seem to remember that the gasket is only needed if not using a mounting panel.

To me, dropping the tanks are much bigger hassle and job than cutting an access hole in the pans. The tank that I did drop was a bear to get back into position to reinstall the mounting bolts. Even with a floor jack, doing the job by myself was no fun. Plus, I didn’t go up top and disconnect my water lines to the tank. Ended up busting the fill line when the tank dropped.

Cut a 6 or 8” square out of the bottom the pan (for me, street side rear corner for the joint waste and gray water pan, street side front corner for fresh) with a cutting blade on an angle grinder. All sets of wires to the existing sensors and the tanks are easily accessible.

Make sure to leave a lip and not cut all the way to a pan edge. Rivet a piece of sheet aluminum over the hole into the lip edge.

Looks good. Plus, if you ever need to access the tanks again, you have ready made access.