Shifting black tank forward an inch or so?

[worksology]

I just bought a Sealant 500 Plus porcelain toilet to replace our factory plastic one, but when I got it in our 2007 International 27', I found that there was not enough clearance to the back wall for it to fit on the flange. The documentation says it needs 11" of clearance to the center of the flange and we've got a bit more than 9".

I could just give up and put the old toilet back on, or settle for the one that only requires 9.5" (I think it's the Dometic/Sealand 310?... I think I could make that fit). Or, I could be stubborn and try to find a much more laborious solution, like remounting the flange 1" or 2" forward of where it was. I've got the flange off already and notice I can wiggle the black tank around about 3/4" in any direction. Not quite enough.

So my question is: What's preventing the black tank from shifting any more than that? Is it something I could finagle if I cut a hole in the belly pan to access the black tank from the bottom? (Cut out some insulation, remount some supports, something like that?) I guess I don't really want a huge project, and I'd be okay with getting our second-choice toilet (if they'll let me return this one!), but I really want to make this one work.

Thanks!

[danlehosky]

I'd get the right toilet if you can make the return.

[rock60]

they make a offset flange for home toilets might work

[Minno]

I think an offset flange in an RV is asking for trouble. Not enough water flow per flush to help everything get through the offset. I'd return the toilet if you can and get a different porcelain model with the right clearance specs.

Moving the tank might be possible, but if you need to move the flange 2”, then you’ll be enlarging the current flange hole in the plywood floor for the new position of the flange, creating an oval hole. Now part of the flange will not be supported as it will be over the old hole. Eventually, that will lead to a leak I’m betting, from a cracked flange, seal, or even worse, the toilet base. To avoid that, you could replace a section of plywood that supports the toilet so you can drill a new round hole the correct size for the flange. The replacement piece of plywood should go back to framing members for proper support, or at least outside the tank so you can install splines or gussets underneath for support at the seams.

See how this project can just bigger and bigger?

Chris

[worksology]

Yup. Sounds like returning the toilet is the safest thing to do. I'll try this morning. Thanks for the opinions & caveats!