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Old 08-01-2022, 09:24 PM   #21
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Good work…and GREAT write-up!

I only wish I’d found this thread earlier to make this suggestion (now too late.):

Convert the system to a siamese outlet…with externally mounted valves… easily and simply replaced entirely with 4 screws. All which would be necessary would be to install ABS plumbing to arrive outside the frame with two external valves .which then join to form one outlet, just like later Airstreams do.
If a valve fails… replace it with only 4 screws….and no access problem.
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Old 08-02-2022, 03:36 AM   #22
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Good work…and GREAT write-up!

I only wish I’d found this thread earlier to make this suggestion (now too late.):

Convert the system to a siamese outlet…with externally mounted valves… easily and simply replaced entirely with 4 screws. All which would be necessary would be to install ABS plumbing to arrive outside the frame with two external valves .which then join to form one outlet, just like later Airstreams do.
If a valve fails… replace it with only 4 screws….and no access problem.
Have you got a photo of the modern setup? Not sure how all that plumbing can fit outside the belly pan without sticking out much further, so I am curious to see what it looks like.
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Old 08-02-2022, 08:02 AM   #23
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Got the new ABS pipe pieces today, but I had to drive to a Menards 85 miles away to get them. Apparently not every jurisdiction allows ABS anymore so not all stores carry it. ...
I found the same thing in my (very urban) area. Stores in the rural areas seem to stock ABS - I'm told that's because it's still used in the mobile home industry.

Thanks for the detailed pictures and descriptions. I have a leak in my black valve and both gray and black are very difficult to operate. Guess it's time to remove the belly pan access panel to see what's going on.
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Old 08-02-2022, 12:02 PM   #24
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Project complete

After a successful leak test, it was on to shoving some new 1/2" pink foam board to fill in for the mouse-removed white foam. Then it was time to make a new cover.

Using a suggest by GammaDog, I used S-channel to fasten three sides of the new panel, with screws only on the outside edge. The new panel slides into place, and then just a few screws are needed to fasten it.

After this photo was taken I added some aluminum duct tape all around to prevent bugs/dirt intrusion.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions in this and other threads.
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Old 08-02-2022, 01:04 PM   #25
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Very nice work! May I ask what sikaflex did you use? Sikaflex-221? Thanks.
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Old 08-02-2022, 01:15 PM   #26
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Very nice work! May I ask what sikaflex did you use? Sikaflex-221? Thanks.
Exactly - Sikaflex 221

Why? I had it on hand and the original looked very much like the SF 221.

Will it work? I assume so. It's holding right now and I have no reason to believe it won't continue to do so. The tank opening collar is a pretty tight fit around the valve adapters, so the caulking is only there to take up for any imperfections. Once the clamp was tightened down I don't think there was more than a hair's width left for the caulking.
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Old 08-07-2022, 09:40 AM   #27
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I need to do this same repair on my '77 Excella. But I thought of bringing the valves to the edge of the camper. Instead of the old gate valves. I thought I would use regular PVC waste valves, like I've seen on cheaper campers. Not as nice looking, but easier to service and repair from commonly available parts. My question is this: Is the an advantage to having the waste gate valves tucked up under the camper? Does it help protect them from damage or freezing?
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Old 08-07-2022, 09:57 AM   #28
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I need to do this same repair on my '77 Excella. But I thought of bringing the valves to the edge of the camper. Instead of the old gate valves. I thought I would use regular PVC waste valves, like I've seen on cheaper campers. Not as nice looking, but easier to service and repair from commonly available parts. My question is this: Is the an advantage to having the waste gate valves tucked up under the camper? Does it help protect them from damage or freezing?
I don't know the specifics of a trailer your age, but assume it's similar to my 1994 Excella. Couple of thoughts...

There is a duct from the furnace on my trailer which dumps warm air into the belly pan around the holding tanks. With the valve inside this area and protected from the colder outside air a bit, it would definitely appear to me that having the valves inside the belly pan does provide them some protection from freezing.

Even without the ducted heat being turned on, I would assume that being inside the belly pan (with its minimal insulation) next to the holding tanks and their rather large thermal mass would provide protection against the valve freezing should temps drop below freezing overnight. Having them hanging below/outside the belly pan would mean that a few hours of sub-freezing weather might be enough to freeze the valves.

The other issue is what you mention - protection against damage. On my trailer the only plumbing out in the open not protected from road debris is the 3" extension pipe which has the connection point for the waste hose. Everything else is tucked away behind the belly pan protected from whatever might bounce up from the road.

The original valves lasted from 1994 to 2022 in my trailer, and I'd say that's a pretty good run. No need in my book to modify the system at all if it held up for that long without attention. Now that I've got the access hatch created I can always make changed in the future pretty easily.
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Old 08-08-2022, 03:52 AM   #29
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Thank you, Richard. Those are great points. I figure I'll just get new original style valves and put it back together correctly. The access hatch idea is a keeper, lol.
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Old 10-15-2022, 06:16 PM   #30
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How are the adapters connected to tank other than sikaflex? Got a leak from black tank, but doesn’t Look like dump valve. Going to replace everything!
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Old 10-15-2022, 06:19 PM   #31
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How are the adapters connected to tank other than sikaflex? Got a leak from black tank, but doesn’t Look like dump valve. Going to replace everything!
The adapters go inside the neck of the tank. There is a thin coating if Sikaflex applied around the adapter before inserting into the tank neck, and then there is a large worm-drive clamp that goes all the way around. It compresses the neck of the tank around the adapter.

The seal didn't look like much before assembling, but once in place and tightened up I was impressed with how solid everything felt.

If you're going to be in the neighborhood, you might as well replace what you can with new. No point in having to do it again in a short while because you missed something.
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Old 10-17-2022, 11:09 AM   #32
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I pulled the Nibco numbers off of your pictures. Would like to know if both abs fittings have female ends and rubber coupler is over each female end. Nibco makes a 90 with a female and male end. Wish you were a YouTuber!!! Great presentation.
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Old 10-17-2022, 11:17 AM   #33
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Sorrry, I forgot to ask if there is 3" coupling in between the 90 and the wye? TKX
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Old 10-17-2022, 11:38 AM   #34
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I pulled the Nibco numbers off of your pictures. Would like to know if both abs fittings have female ends and rubber coupler is over each female end. Nibco makes a 90 with a female and male end. Wish you were a YouTuber!!! Great presentation.
The 90 is a street elbow, meaning that it has one female end and one male.

YouTuber? Thanks, but not sure anyone would want to see me on screen.

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Sorrry, I forgot to ask if there is 3" coupling in between the 90 and the wye? TKX
Yes - there is a rubber coupling between the 90-degree elbow and the wye fitting. You'll have to get a length of ABS tube to get things put together. A short piece of it goes into one of the female ends of the wye, and then that gets put into the rubber coupling. The male end of the 90-degree street elbow goes into the other end of the rubber coupling.

The coupling can be seen in my photos, but since it has two metal clamps on it holding things together it might not look like a rubber coupling.
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Old 10-18-2022, 12:30 PM   #35
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Update! When I emailed you I had only cut a face panel to see what was going on. Once I cut my bottom panel, I could see that tlhe adapter had totally cracked off the black tank. The adapter on the grey tank cracked when I tried to remove it. I had clean surfaces on both surfaces and no indication of any residue. I have use bearing grease on all clamp fittings and never had a problem. As long as I'm in there, I'm going to change both tank's level sending units: wlhich means drilling eight new holes and using Valtera Horst probes.
Again, thanks for the pictures and responses to my questions.
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Old 07-05-2023, 08:29 AM   #36
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Thanks to Richard5933, the tank valves have been replaced in my 1994 34' following his great write up. One thing that I did find up here in Canada, even in a city the size of Winnipeg, the wye and the long 90 were not available at any supplier including the commercial plumbing supply companies. Not a common item, I was told, try RV stores, and told by one place that that was an Airstream only item!! Amazon is your best friend in these cases. I replaced the complete drain system, from the tanks to the hose connector. The biggest problem was cutting the opening to access the valves. I couldn't find a nibbler so had to use metal shears, and laying on your back under the trailer with dirt falling down made cutting the opening straight posed a problem. Everything worked out fine in the end, no more leaking valves!
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Old 07-05-2023, 01:58 PM   #37
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Thanks to Richard5933, the tank valves have been replaced in my 1994 34' following his great write up. One thing that I did find up here in Canada, even in a city the size of Winnipeg, the wye and the long 90 were not available at any supplier including the commercial plumbing supply companies. Not a common item, I was told, try RV stores, and told by one place that that was an Airstream only item!! Amazon is your best friend in these cases. I replaced the complete drain system, from the tanks to the hose connector. The biggest problem was cutting the opening to access the valves. I couldn't find a nibbler so had to use metal shears, and laying on your back under the trailer with dirt falling down made cutting the opening straight posed a problem. Everything worked out fine in the end, no more leaking valves!
Glad to hear that it went well and that you're now leak free.
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