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Old 11-13-2018, 10:31 PM   #21
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Your trailers' dump valves are set up differently from any I have ever seen.
Would you make a material list of the parts/numbers you used, so that anyone that has a similar repair in the future might be helped?
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Old 11-16-2018, 06:57 PM   #22
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Will do when I get back to the trailer.
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Old 05-29-2019, 04:00 PM   #23
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Tank adapter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Julie-Bob View Post
Well I replaced my black water tank drain valve today. As starters we have a 2009 25’FB Classic Limited. I read Rick March article in the November Blue Beret, in this article he stated that all Classic use the Thetford valve, not in my classic the Vallerra was installed, and all tanks were set in the tank pan with 1/2 foam insulation, not on my Classic (no foam between the pan and tank, also tank was 1/2 from pan, not on my Classic the black water valve in contacting the pan, to replace the valve I cut a hole 12” X 12” to change out the black water valve. Attachment 327656Attachment 327657Attachment 327658Attachment 327659Attachment 1
Just wondering what adapter was used to mount the Valterra valves to the holding tanks? My tanks have Thetford valves, but the valves are expensive and becoming more rare. I think Valterra is the most common now. Looks like the Valterra would work on mine. I don't like having to replace and glue new pipe on just to replace a valve. On my previous Holiday Rambler trailer it was a simple matter of unbolting the cable and replacing
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Old 05-30-2019, 05:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
The Thetford valves arrive late Thursday afternoon. Friday morning I filled and dumped both tanks several times, Then I filled them with a bleach/water solution and let them set a while. I got started removing the old stuf just after noon on Friday. I decided to replace the hose adapter changing from the Thetford connector to the Valterra, so I had to make a trip to get it. I also made a run to the hardware when I discovered I picked up two cans of pipe cleaner, but no glue. I was done with install, cleanup, and putting away tools by 3:30.

It took a little over an hour to remove both valves and the old pipe. It took a little less than an hour to reinstall. I reused the original rubber connector since the newer ones are a little longer.

New material list:
2 - tank adapters
2 - Thetford waste valves - #08709
1 - 3 x 3 x 3 ABS combination fitting
1 - 3" ABS street el fitting (90 degree / quarter bend)
1 - 1' schedule 40 ABS pipe
1 - Valterra T1029-2 termination adapter
1 - 45 degree clear hose adapter
1 - pipe cleaner/primer
1 - glue (the multi use type for both ABS and PVC)
1 - tube Lexel caulk (instant waterproof type to seal tank adapters)

Total for new materials was ~$170, including shipping cost.
I reused the existing clamps and screws since they were all in good shape.

Attachment 280448

I still need to fabricate and install a metal access cover over the opening I cut in the tank pan. I'll get that accomplished after waiting a few days to make sure there are no leaks.
Hello again, I am coolbikeman from a previous post I made about repairing a leak in my black tank. Can you tell me where you purchased the wye fitting with 3" openings on all sides? The only one I can find has to be ordered in at Lowe's but specifications says one opening is 2". I have got myself into a can of (Airstream) worms since I didn't know where my leak was coming from, I took off the pan and confirmed it was the cracked adapter leaking not the valve, and not the toilet pipe or vent. It will be a chore trying to get the pan back up and screwed on. Also, about the Lexel caulk, isn't it a silicone? If this repair has to be done again can the Lexel be cleaned good enough to seal putting in another adapter?

Also I confirmed that the tanks are only held up by the pipes attached to them, not what I was told by calling the factory. They said the tanks should have a metal strap helping to hold them. Airstream support couldn't tell me whether a hose was there above the tanks to heat them in cold weather . I got me a snake camera to see if I can see anything above the tanks. I can see that Airstream must have installed the pan, set the tanks in pan with loose styrofoam under and around them( I am assuming to help keep them in place to avoid stress on the valves and adapters), then installed the flooring. No thought was given on servicing them several years down the road🙄.

Thanks

Terry Walden ( coolbikeman)
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Old 05-30-2019, 06:53 PM   #25
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Terry,
That list of materials is for my 1999 Excella, all 3" pipe. My 2000 Safari does have a 2" coming from the gray tank. You should confirm what you need by looking at yours.

Where I was at the time I made the repair, in FL, there was a mobile home supply and an RV supply store nearby. Between the two, they carried the ABS pipe and fittings I needed. Plumbing supply stores or a local hardware might have what you need.

The part on my trailer is not a wye, it is a 3 x 3 x 3 combination wye. There is a difference. If you get a wye, that implies a fitting with 45 degree offset. You will need another 45 degree fitting to complete the 90 degree bend.
(In the old days before plastic fittings, it took one 45 degree 1/8th bend cast iron fitting and one cast iron 45 degree wye fitting. In today's plastics the fitting is made in one piece. That is why it is called a combination wye)

It is a PITA to drop the pan. I did it once on one of my older trailer. That is why I chose to cut an access opening this time.

ps:
I see you are in Sioux Falls. Try Ferguson Supply, or other plumbing supply, to call and ask at their sales counter if they have ABS pipe and fittings in stock. They are a wholesale plumbing supply, but will sell over the counter for cash. Also Amazon is a source.

Lexel is not silicone.
https://www.sashco.com/hi/pdfs/Lexel_TechData.pdf
http://www.sashco.com/hi/pdfs/LexelWhiteVOC_MSDS.pdf
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Old 05-30-2019, 08:07 PM   #26
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Thanks for replying. My trailer is the same as yours built at the very end of 1999 but is listed as a 2000 Excella 34. My holding tank set up looks exactly like yours. After searching with the Airstream part number 600187, I found that airstreamsupply.com does have them. I am hesitant to order one from Lowe's for fear it wouldn't be right. I haven't put any pictures to follow up my original post yet, but I will when I get parts needed. I am still using toilet as we are full time. It only leaks a drop slowly but the odor comes up behind toilet in bathroom. No odor now since I have pan off. I will try to post one picture here. I haven't tried adding pictures. Don't know if this link will work.

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Old 05-30-2019, 08:11 PM   #27
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Well that didn't work for a picture. I will have to read on how to do it.

My domicile for mail and licensing is Sioux Falls. I am currently in Springfield, Mo. area where we lived since 1984 and sold our house 2 years ago
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Old 05-30-2019, 08:25 PM   #28
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to add photos>
1. click on the "go advanced" tab below the Quick Reply box.
2. click on the paper clip in the tool bar
3. click "browse" then select the photo
4. click "upload" then wait a moment for the photo to upload
5. go back to the paper clip, click on the down arrow
6. double click on the photo file name at the pop/drop down
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:37 PM   #29
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Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20190528_132308.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	262.0 KB
ID:	342123

If this works, thank you😀
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:41 AM   #30
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Good photo!
I do not see an obvious leak. Where is it leaking?
If the tank adapters are leaking, but the valves are not you could save some $.
Those valves appear to be in good condition. Did you know the valves can be rebuilt, that Thetford sells a rebuild kit? I think the part # 09872 is the one for your valves (you should confirm).
New tank adapters and new rebuild kits would allow you to re-use the existing plumbing pipe and fittings. That would cost a lot less, maybe save ~$100.
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:49 AM   #31
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This is the rebuild kit from ODM.
http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...roducts_id=409
This is the tank adapter from ODM.
http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...oducts_id=1092
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Old 05-31-2019, 10:14 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Good photo!
I do not see an obvious leak. Where is it leaking?
If the tank adapters are leaking, but the valves are not you could save some $.
Those valves appear to be in good condition. Did you know the valves can be rebuilt, that Thetford sells a rebuild kit? I think the part # 09872 is the one for your valves (you should confirm).
New tank adapters and new rebuild kits would allow you to re-use the existing plumbing pipe and fittings. That would cost a lot less, maybe save ~$100.
The adapter is cracked badly and is leaking between valve and adapter. But, I think I can see and feel a hairline crack in the side of valve where it is glued to the fitting. The valve doesn't appear to be leaking there so the crack may not be all the way through. I do know that there is no water leaks exiting the main sewer pipe where hose is connected. I am going to replace that valve. I ordered one valve and one repair kit for the grey tank valve and also the termination fitting you used so I don't have a second adapter to attach sewer hose

I still need to see if I can find a source for the ABS fittings around the Springfield, Missouri area or go ahead and order them from the airstream supply website.

The styrofoam under tanks was pretty much trashed and smelly. I am going to get new styrofoam and use some adhesive to hold it in place around outside of pan and bottom so it will stay in place while trying to reinstall the pan. I think it was used more as a cushion to keep tanks from moving rather than for insulation.

I assume you had to also cut a short piece of the straight ABS pipe to be glued into the combination fitting where the rubber piece mounts? I didn't see that one in the picture you posted.

I am hoping I can get the areas glued very close to original positions so there won't be additional stress between the black and grey tank and where the pull rods come out of pan to brackets for handle area.

Thanks for your help

Terry
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Old 05-31-2019, 02:23 PM   #33
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You can get the fittings and pipe delivered to your local Home Depot, no charge for shipping.
pipe > https://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-3-in...1203/202300520
street el > https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-in-ABS...2HD3/100346231
combination wye > https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-in-ABS...LHD3/100342451
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Old 05-31-2019, 02:50 PM   #34
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Thanks for those links. My local RV parts and repair is ordering the combination fitting to arrive first of next week. They have the other items. If the part is correct I will have it sooner than Home Depot. If not I will order from them.

Thanks
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Old 09-14-2019, 01:19 PM   #35
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Just finished installing new valves & piping. I used a marine product called PL 4200 to seal the fitting which slips into the tank(s) , which dries faster than marine PL 5200 which is the gold standard for thru hull fittings underwater. The PL 4200 is not permanent whereas the 5200 is. Not a easy job because there is not a lot of room to work !
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Old 09-14-2019, 04:36 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harryk View Post
Just finished installing new valves & piping. I used a marine product called PL 4200 to seal the fitting which slips into the tank(s) , which dries faster than marine PL 5200 which is the gold standard for thru hull fittings underwater. The PL 4200 is not permanent whereas the 5200 is. Not a easy job because there is not a lot of room to work !
Any photos to share?

ps:
What brand is that sealant?
PL usually indicates the pro line of Loctite sealants, but I'm not familiar with a PL4200.
4200 is also a 3M marine sealant with similar properties as you described.
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Old 10-08-2019, 12:15 PM   #37
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[QUOTE=crispyboy;1935815]Wingeezer,
I have done this job but only changed the adapters and rebuilt the valves.

1.) Metal Sheer - Air shear is best for this job.
2.) Thetford valve - I reused the original Thetford valves but cheaped out and rebuilt them with a kit.
3.)Tank attachment - there is a 3" nipple on the tank. The adapter (black part next to the valve in AW Warns picture), gets slid into the tank nipple. Put some sealant on the adapter before sliding in tank. I think I used Vulkem or Sikoflex - don't remember for certain, but it looked like what the factory used. There is a large worm clamp (hose clamp) that goes on the tank nipple.
The Thetford valve gets bolted to the adapter.
The remainder of the black abs pipe is glued together.
Remember to get a piece of galvanized sheet metal (HVAC ductwork) to put over the hole cut in the pan. Fasten with very short screws. I think I used 1/2" screws and ground them down much shorter.
To get the trailer elevated high enough to work under I back it up onto some heavy duty Rhino ramps (oil change ramps) and put the tongue jack down to elevate the rear of the trailer.[/QUOTE


Also, of course by lowering the tongue and getting the trailer in a nose down angle, it helps with residual drippage from a not-entirely-empty tank, which it seems is always the case.
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Old 10-23-2019, 08:19 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbikeman View Post
Attachment 342123

If this works, thank you😀

Curious, how easy was it to re-attach the tank pan?

About to lower the black/gray tank pan on a 2000 34' Excella to repair leak. For what it's worth, I only feel confident because of your picture, so thanks for sharing...
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Old 10-26-2019, 12:25 PM   #39
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More pictures posted here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...ml#post2301594
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