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Old 02-03-2004, 01:22 PM   #1
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Repacing blackwater dump valve

I want to replace my Thetford blackwater dump valve because it is frozen in the closed position and I cannot unscrew the screws that hold its two pieces together. I tried the Screw-Out product from Sears but the rusted screws gave out. Drilling out the screws presents a bigger problem because of the heat produced and the subsequent melting of the valves plastic body around the screw holes.

As a side note, if you have a tail light assembly with rusted screws, use a drill to drill into the head of the screw and all of a sudden as the screw head heats up the plastic will begin to melt and the nasty old screw can be pulled out before the plastic cools and hardens once again!

I am thinking of cutting the pipe just above the valve and then replacing the frozen valve with a new valve. Is this a normal procedure?

If I cut the pipe, I think I will be left with a shorter than normal pipe on to which I need to cement the new valve. Would it be feasible to use a rubber sleeve that is made to join pipe sections to join an extension piece to which I cement the new valve?
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:40 PM   #2
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Can you cut em?

Rick:

I replaced (rebuilt) my Thetford black water valve just this past weekend.

Just wondering;

1). Could you use a "Left Hand" (counterclockwise) drill bit?

2). How about a small Sawzall (Reciprocating Saw). I believe these can be rented, but they are not all that expensive to buy.
I think I have enough room to cut all four of the screws if I had to.

I ended up having to buy a whole valve ($45) because I could not find the "slide" separately.

I think that I would try to cut the four long screws, and back out the dutchmen with a vice-grip.
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:58 PM   #3
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Cutting the screw heads off may work

Dennis

Your idea to saw off the screw heads is probably a good one. I've got to see how much working space exists in and around the pipes.

Of course, I might end up in the same situation as you and have to purchase the entire valve just to get the slide mechanism. If that is the case, perhaps I should just go ahead and cut off the valve and get it over with.

Thanks for you advice-I will let you know how things turn out.

Rick
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Old 02-03-2004, 03:20 PM   #4
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I found the easiest thing to do is to cut both valves out and replace the whole thing. In my case (75 Tradewind) I could not easily replace just one valve.


So now I have new from the tanks to sewer connection. PVC is not that expensive....

Ken J.
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Old 05-29-2024, 02:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J View Post
I found the easiest thing to do is to cut both valves out and replace the whole thing. In my case (75 Tradewind) I could not easily replace just one valve.


So now I have new from the tanks to sewer connection. PVC is not that expensive....

Ken J.
Do you have a source and part#s for those valves ? We need to do this in our 75 Sovereign centre bath.
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Old 05-29-2024, 06:36 PM   #6
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RE: Thetford Plumbing Parts for Vintage Airstreams

Greetings searchcz!

Quote:
Originally Posted by searchcz View Post
Do you have a source and part#s for those valves ? We need to do this in our 75 Sovereign centre bath.
When it comes to the high quality Thetford valves on our Vintage Airstreams, I rely upon the following when trying to source the needed parts:

Vintage Trailer Supply

Out of Doors Mart, Colfax, North Carolina

Bill Thomas Camper Sales, Wentzville, Missouri

Woodland RV, Grand Rapids, Michigan

I have also found a number of the more common Genuine Thetford parts such as termination caps, hose adapters, etc. listed and available through the online catalog (and sometimes locally) from my local big box home improvement stores and farm/agricultural stores.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin
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Old 05-30-2024, 07:44 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by overlander64 View Post
Greetings searchcz!



When it comes to the high quality Thetford valves on our Vintage Airstreams, I rely upon the following when trying to source the needed parts:

Vintage Trailer Supply

Out of Doors Mart, Colfax, North Carolina

Bill Thomas Camper Sales, Wentzville, Missouri

Woodland RV, Grand Rapids, Michigan

I have also found a number of the more common Genuine Thetford parts such as termination caps, hose adapters, etc. listed and available through the online catalog (and sometimes locally) from my local big box home improvement stores and farm/agricultural stores.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin
All good sources. Thanks for the tip.

Any chance you recall which part #s you purchased? Both of my valves requires the extension handles, so that eliminates a few of them. The black bolts on to a mounting flange, and I dont yet understand how the grey mounts to the tank. (maybe some kind of pressure fitting?)
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Old 05-30-2024, 09:38 AM   #8
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RE: Thetford Plumbing Parts for Vintage Airstreams

Greetings search!

Quote:
Originally Posted by searchcz View Post
All good sources. Thanks for the tip.

Any chance you recall which part #s you purchased? Both of my valves requires the extension handles, so that eliminates a few of them. The black bolts on to a mounting flange, and I dont yet understand how the grey mounts to the tank. (maybe some kind of pressure fitting?)
I checked my documents files in the Overlander yesterday, and the carbon copies of the receipts from my purchases from several years ago have faded to the point that the part numbers are illegible. Sadly, the Airstream dealer where I purchased the parts at that time retired and the business closed. Today, I would call one of the Airstream dealers that I mentioned in my post and speak with someone at their parts desk and describe what I needed and ask for their recommendation. All three of those Airstream dealers have good reputations within the Vintage community for being helpful with parts sourcing. Vintage Trailer Supply is also quite helpful, but I am not so certain about how familiar that they would be with the particular valves and type of attachment used for particular eras of Vintage Airstreams. I do know that when you get back to my 1964 and older models, the waste valves often have to be fiberglassed into the tank as the attachment method.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin
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Old 05-30-2024, 10:16 AM   #9
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I got mine at Out of Doors Mart - they had the ones with the extensions at the time and likely still do.
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Old 05-30-2024, 04:32 PM   #10
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Replacing Waste Gate Valves

I HIGHLY recommend that you do a search for Richard5933's posts and follow his advice. I just completed mine on a 1990 Excella 25'.

You do NOT need to saw off your valves. But you can destroy them to get them separated which will give you the wiggle room to work it out of the tank neck. You do not want to destroy the Black or Grey tank necks.

Buy the valves from OODM as suggested above as they have the ones without pull handles and are drilled for a rivet. Then save your extensions drill out the rivet on the extension and use it on the new valves. It is not worth the rebuilding of the valve.

Buy all new black ABS parts to make a new setup out to your termination.

Be very QUICK when glueing the parts together as the glue sets up almost immediately. Ask me how I know....
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