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Old 10-11-2020, 05:19 PM   #1
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Recalibrating Micro Pulse tank monitors

My grey tank sensor is very random, usually showing 'full' when it's empty, for example. I just found this writeup on how to recalibrate, which some of you with the older Micro Pulse system might find helpful. I'll report back in after I try it to see if it fixes my issue.


https://seeyoudowntheroad.com/pages/downloads
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Old 10-11-2020, 05:40 PM   #2
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My grey tank sensor has been wacky too. It seems to read full late n the day when it's warm and more accurate in the cool mornings.

I just winterized and pulled the sensor to see if I noticed anything. It did have quite a bit of sludge in it so I cleaned it out and reinstalled it. I'll have to wait for next season to see if that made a difference.

At any rate, I find you get to know your system and have a pretty good idea of when the tanks are getting full or empty.
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Old 10-11-2020, 05:47 PM   #3
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The MicroPulse system tends to be unreliable, even with recalibration. Because Airstream was using the MicroPulse system, I installed it in our 2002 thinking it would be better than the simple sensors in our trailer (purchased new). After fooling with the MicroPulse for years, I finally changed over to the SeeLevel II system and find that it functions very well.

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Old 10-11-2020, 06:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam View Post
My grey tank sensor has been wacky too. It seems to read full late n the day when it's warm and more accurate in the cool mornings.

I just winterized and pulled the sensor to see if I noticed anything. It did have quite a bit of sludge in it so I cleaned it out and reinstalled it. I'll have to wait for next season to see if that made a difference.

At any rate, I find you get to know your system and have a pretty good idea of when the tanks are getting full or empty.

The grey sensor is accessible? I know the black sensor is near the drain pipe, but didn't realize the grey was too? I'll have to look. Since they are pressure switches, yes keeping them clean should make a difference!
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Old 10-12-2020, 10:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim A. View Post
The MicroPulse system tends to be unreliable, even with recalibration. Because Airstream was using the MicroPulse system, I installed it in our 2002 thinking it would be better than the simple sensors in our trailer (purchased new). After fooling with the MicroPulse for years, I finally changed over to the SeeLevel II system and find that it functions very well.

Tim
Sorry for the hijack- I have read this a few times- consensus is, SeeLevel is better. Is that difficult to install yourself? Links?

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-12-2020, 10:33 AM   #6
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PC, you can avoid continued frustration by skipping the grief and just replace with seelevel. I went through this exercise several years ago. Recalibrate, and get results....sometimes for months....then way off again.
I anticipate you will never get an even semi permanent calibration.
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Old 10-12-2020, 12:31 PM   #7
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PC: I have the same problem. Thanks for the download information.
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Old 10-12-2020, 12:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david.steed View Post
Sorry for the hijack- I have read this a few times- consensus is, SeeLevel is better. Is that difficult to install yourself?
It all depends upon what you call difficult!

Access to a side of each tank is necessary in order to fasten the sensor on the outside of each tank. I ran new wiring, but others have used the Micropulse wires (doubling the thin telephone-type wires to have two conductors instead of four). If the SeeLevel system you choose includes a switch for the water pump, a relay in that circuit might be necessary. It was for me.

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Old 10-12-2020, 02:06 PM   #9
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Just my two cents here as we too have a 2014, and have swapped out a failed BW/BF-CkVal ( for the new brass model and valterra CV).

When I winterize I use air only but the big unknown is the BW BF function.

As I understand the BF valve function (which I tested with a garden hose connection prior to installation) is that under low flow (air or water) the BF will not close and remains open with water sometimes coming out the top of the valve. But with increased flow, it closes and if flow is sufficient water continues thru the check valve (which apparently has a pressure rating) to to the BW spray head in the tank. That was confirmed when prior to installation, I hooked both up to a garden hose,

Now that it is installed, when winterizing I use only air. To test it, I install the normal air hose connection at the BW exterior connection and use the compressor. After disconnection, if you blow on the hose connection and it is operating correctly air will pass easily, until there is sufficient flow to to close the BF portion forcing air thru the check valve.

If the valve is operating correctly, you'll feel the flow, followed by delay kick in and the valve closes when you blow harder. Air or water would then continue on to the spray head

No delay the BF valve is stuck closed which is OK....water/air still continues on but you have no BF protection. The BF doesn't stop the flow. However the check valve could. In the old plastic ones the the BF/CH is a combo unit. If it hasn't failed yet, it will. IMO replace it and move on. I cut an access hole in the side of the vanity @ the BF/CV to replace ours and replaces the wood with a vent. All the better to circulate warm are when wither traveling. Lots of freeze delicate plumbing in this area.

Personally I would be surprised if it isn't the spray head. I know in our 20, other's have installed new ones. They must have small hands. I can see mine but I think the process is removing the toilet and the bulkhead that it is attached to.

I would get some liquid calgon from WM, add some OXY/Cascage DW pods or laundry det and fill it with hot water, then let it set over night...maybe a spin around the block. Dump and test.

There was also a recent article in RVLifeE (E version) re BW and the use of microbes to gobble up grime etc.

https://rvlife.com/microbes-holding-...m_medium=email


Goodluck


p.s. I am seriously thinking of removing the CV on the BF valve as I have always used a hose end BF/CV. That way when winterizing I could confirm that in fact all the H20 has been pushed the the BF to the BW tank. I have a low spot between these two points (Thanks JC) and would like to know for sure that water has been pushed thru.
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Old 10-12-2020, 02:53 PM   #10
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Put a spoon full of "Drain Care" and 6oz. of water in the flush system with a short length of hose and let it sit 6 hours, then flush with fresh water behind it into the Black tank. These are the same enzymes use in compost toilets. It works in all drains. RV or home. Higher water pressure will sometimes do the trick. What has happened is the feces has dried and filled in the spray holes in the flush system. If you are on a staton drug the makes the problem worse.
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Old 10-20-2020, 05:34 PM   #11
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Hi Bob, doing a little research. I found this post you made about the Micro Pulse system. By chance, do you know how to remove the cover of the Micro Pulse panel in the galley? I don't see any screws, but I suspect that it just snaps in place. Do you just pop off the cover and then remove screws to get it out of the wall?

I wanted to swap connectors between 2 tanks to see if it's the wiring or the sensors.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
Just my two cents here as we too have a 2014, and have swapped out a failed BW/BF-CkVal ( for the new brass model and valterra CV).

When I winterize I use air only but the big unknown is the BW BF function.

As I understand the BF valve function (which I tested with a garden hose connection prior to installation) is that under low flow (air or water) the BF will not close and remains open with water sometimes coming out the top of the valve. But with increased flow, it closes and if flow is sufficient water continues thru the check valve (which apparently has a pressure rating) to to the BW spray head in the tank. That was confirmed when prior to installation, I hooked both up to a garden hose,

Now that it is installed, when winterizing I use only air. To test it, I install the normal air hose connection at the BW exterior connection and use the compressor. After disconnection, if you blow on the hose connection and it is operating correctly air will pass easily, until there is sufficient flow to to close the BF portion forcing air thru the check valve.

If the valve is operating correctly, you'll feel the flow, followed by delay kick in and the valve closes when you blow harder. Air or water would then continue on to the spray head

No delay the BF valve is stuck closed which is OK....water/air still continues on but you have no BF protection. The BF doesn't stop the flow. However the check valve could. In the old plastic ones the the BF/CH is a combo unit. If it hasn't failed yet, it will. IMO replace it and move on. I cut an access hole in the side of the vanity @ the BF/CV to replace ours and replaces the wood with a vent. All the better to circulate warm are when wither traveling. Lots of freeze delicate plumbing in this area.

Personally I would be surprised if it isn't the spray head. I know in our 20, other's have installed new ones. They must have small hands. I can see mine but I think the process is removing the toilet and the bulkhead that it is attached to.

I would get some liquid calgon from WM, add some OXY/Cascage DW pods or laundry det and fill it with hot water, then let it set over night...maybe a spin around the block. Dump and test.

There was also a recent article in RVLifeE (E version) re BW and the use of microbes to gobble up grime etc.

https://rvlife.com/microbes-holding-...m_medium=email


Goodluck


p.s. I am seriously thinking of removing the CV on the BF valve as I have always used a hose end BF/CV. That way when winterizing I could confirm that in fact all the H20 has been pushed the the BF to the BW tank. I have a low spot between these two points (Thanks JC) and would like to know for sure that water has been pushed thru.
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Old 10-20-2020, 06:18 PM   #12
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He Rich, let me get back to you tomorrow as I'll be at the trailer. Seems i have a leak from a stripped screw one the front window shield hinge. Grrrr, sloppy JC work.

Mine was replaced but a couple if years ago under warranty. But yes i believe you're on track and snaps onto a base like so many home thermostats.

I realized yesterday i hadn't replied to your last PM, but will tomorrow. Apologies.
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Old 10-21-2020, 07:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcskier View Post
My grey tank sensor is very random, usually showing 'full' when it's empty, for example. I just found this writeup on how to recalibrate, which some of you with the older Micro Pulse system might find helpful. I'll report back in after I try it to see if it fixes my issue.


https://seeyoudowntheroad.com/pages/downloads
Hi Peter... We have the same issue with the Mcro Pulse. After my last - and completely unsuccessful - attempt at recalibration, I told Linda "I'm done" ... No more wasting time and water trying to get it to read even half-way reliably.

I've decided the Micro Pulse system's usefulness extends only to a good place for the pump switch.
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Old 10-21-2020, 09:36 PM   #14
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".....I've decided the Micro Pulse system's usefulness extends only to a good place for the pump switch."
Amen
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Old 10-22-2020, 07:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richw46 View Post
Hi Bob, doing a little research. I found this post you made about the Micro Pulse system. By chance, do you know how to remove the cover of the Micro Pulse panel in the galley? I don't see any screws, but I suspect that it just snaps in place. Do you just pop off the cover and then remove screws to get it out of the wall?

I wanted to swap connectors between 2 tanks to see if it's the wiring or the sensors.

Thanks
Rich, the faceplate just snaps into place.
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Old 10-22-2020, 09:12 AM   #16
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Rich, the faceplate just snaps into place.
Thanks, Rich. I shall proceed with caution.
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Old 10-22-2020, 09:27 AM   #17
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Thanks, Rich. I shall proceed with caution.
I went down to my AS parts tub and found the old display. Pry from the top center. Theres a spring tab there. Two slide in clips at bottom. Click image for larger version

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Old 10-22-2020, 09:27 AM   #18
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Sorry for the hijack- I have read this a few times- consensus is, SeeLevel is better. Is that difficult to install yourself? Links?

Thanks in advance
Five years ago I changed over from micropulse to SeeLevel in my then 2-year old trailer. Since then it has worked consistently perfectly accurately. The monitor displays tank fullness in percentage. For example, when the fresh tanks reads 6% or less I know the pump will soon be sucking air. The small error range is due to fact that water always lays level due to gravity, but my camper may not always be perfectly level due to site and operator impatience for his beer after a long drive.

Below is a link to a thread I posted bqck then documenting the work to convert my trailer to SeeLevel. The difficulty level was probably on par with a work to install a solar setup. It took a few days.


https://www.airforums.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=138416
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Old 10-22-2020, 04:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
I went down to my AS parts tub and found the old display. Pry from the top center. Theres a spring tab there. Two slide in clips at bottom.
Thanks, Rich. Raking leaves (and fishing ) these days but should be able to head to the storage lot sometime next week.
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:25 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by pcskier View Post
The grey sensor is accessible? I know the black sensor is near the drain pipe, but didn't realize the grey was too? I'll have to look. Since they are pressure switches, yes keeping them clean should make a difference!
Remove the street side end of the sheet metal enclosure around the tank., then you'll see it in the grey water pipe.. it's probably full of gunk.. I replaced mine and now it works fine..
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