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10-11-2020, 04:19 PM
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#1
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The Aluminum Tent 3
2014 23' Flying Cloud
Park City
, Utah
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,157
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Recalibrating Micro Pulse tank monitors
My grey tank sensor is very random, usually showing 'full' when it's empty, for example. I just found this writeup on how to recalibrate, which some of you with the older Micro Pulse system might find helpful. I'll report back in after I try it to see if it fixes my issue.
https://seeyoudowntheroad.com/pages/downloads
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10-11-2020, 04:40 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2014 25' Flying Cloud
Cuddebackville
, New York
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,343
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My grey tank sensor has been wacky too. It seems to read full late n the day when it's warm and more accurate in the cool mornings.
I just winterized and pulled the sensor to see if I noticed anything. It did have quite a bit of sludge in it so I cleaned it out and reinstalled it. I'll have to wait for next season to see if that made a difference.
At any rate, I find you get to know your system and have a pretty good idea of when the tanks are getting full or empty.
__________________
2014 25' Flying Cloud Rear Twin
2019 Ford Expedition Platinum
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10-11-2020, 04:47 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2002 19' Bambi
Lafayette
, California
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,565
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The MicroPulse system tends to be unreliable, even with recalibration. Because Airstream was using the MicroPulse system, I installed it in our 2002 thinking it would be better than the simple sensors in our trailer (purchased new). After fooling with the MicroPulse for years, I finally changed over to the SeeLevel II system and find that it functions very well.
Tim
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10-11-2020, 05:33 PM
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#4
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The Aluminum Tent 3
2014 23' Flying Cloud
Park City
, Utah
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam
My grey tank sensor has been wacky too. It seems to read full late n the day when it's warm and more accurate in the cool mornings.
I just winterized and pulled the sensor to see if I noticed anything. It did have quite a bit of sludge in it so I cleaned it out and reinstalled it. I'll have to wait for next season to see if that made a difference.
At any rate, I find you get to know your system and have a pretty good idea of when the tanks are getting full or empty.
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The grey sensor is accessible? I know the black sensor is near the drain pipe, but didn't realize the grey was too? I'll have to look. Since they are pressure switches, yes keeping them clean should make a difference!
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10-12-2020, 09:14 AM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
2005 22' International CCD
Im Fang
, Canton Freiburg
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim A.
The MicroPulse system tends to be unreliable, even with recalibration. Because Airstream was using the MicroPulse system, I installed it in our 2002 thinking it would be better than the simple sensors in our trailer (purchased new). After fooling with the MicroPulse for years, I finally changed over to the SeeLevel II system and find that it functions very well.
Tim
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Sorry for the hijack- I have read this a few times- consensus is, SeeLevel is better. Is that difficult to install yourself? Links?
Thanks in advance
__________________
David Steed
2005 Airstream International CCD 22 #4242
Name: Hi-Ho Silver!
1656 Im Fang, Switzerland
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10-12-2020, 09:33 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,668
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PC, you can avoid continued frustration by skipping the grief and just replace with seelevel. I went through this exercise several years ago. Recalibrate, and get results....sometimes for months....then way off again.
I anticipate you will never get an even semi permanent calibration.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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10-12-2020, 11:31 AM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
2004 25' Classic
LaPlata
, Missouri
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 29
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PC: I have the same problem. Thanks for the download information.
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10-12-2020, 11:42 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2002 19' Bambi
Lafayette
, California
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david.steed
Sorry for the hijack- I have read this a few times- consensus is, SeeLevel is better. Is that difficult to install yourself?
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It all depends upon what you call difficult!
Access to a side of each tank is necessary in order to fasten the sensor on the outside of each tank. I ran new wiring, but others have used the Micropulse wires (doubling the thin telephone-type wires to have two conductors instead of four). If the SeeLevel system you choose includes a switch for the water pump, a relay in that circuit might be necessary. It was for me.
Tim
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10-12-2020, 01:06 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,591
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Just my two cents here as we too have a 2014, and have swapped out a failed BW/BF-CkVal ( for the new brass model and valterra CV).
When I winterize I use air only but the big unknown is the BW BF function.
As I understand the BF valve function (which I tested with a garden hose connection prior to installation) is that under low flow (air or water) the BF will not close and remains open with water sometimes coming out the top of the valve. But with increased flow, it closes and if flow is sufficient water continues thru the check valve (which apparently has a pressure rating) to to the BW spray head in the tank. That was confirmed when prior to installation, I hooked both up to a garden hose,
Now that it is installed, when winterizing I use only air. To test it, I install the normal air hose connection at the BW exterior connection and use the compressor. After disconnection, if you blow on the hose connection and it is operating correctly air will pass easily, until there is sufficient flow to to close the BF portion forcing air thru the check valve.
If the valve is operating correctly, you'll feel the flow, followed by delay kick in and the valve closes when you blow harder. Air or water would then continue on to the spray head
No delay the BF valve is stuck closed which is OK....water/air still continues on but you have no BF protection. The BF doesn't stop the flow. However the check valve could. In the old plastic ones the the BF/CH is a combo unit. If it hasn't failed yet, it will. IMO replace it and move on. I cut an access hole in the side of the vanity @ the BF/CV to replace ours and replaces the wood with a vent. All the better to circulate warm are when wither traveling. Lots of freeze delicate plumbing in this area.
Personally I would be surprised if it isn't the spray head. I know in our 20, other's have installed new ones. They must have small hands. I can see mine but I think the process is removing the toilet and the bulkhead that it is attached to.
I would get some liquid calgon from WM, add some OXY/Cascage DW pods or laundry det and fill it with hot water, then let it set over night...maybe a spin around the block. Dump and test.
There was also a recent article in RVLifeE (E version) re BW and the use of microbes to gobble up grime etc.
https://rvlife.com/microbes-holding-...m_medium=email
Goodluck
p.s. I am seriously thinking of removing the CV on the BF valve as I have always used a hose end BF/CV. That way when winterizing I could confirm that in fact all the H20 has been pushed the the BF to the BW tank. I have a low spot between these two points (Thanks JC) and would like to know for sure that water has been pushed thru.
__________________
WashMoBob
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10-12-2020, 01:53 PM
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#10
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:SPACE A" S/O 11 Air19745
2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,766
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Put a spoon full of "Drain Care" and 6oz. of water in the flush system with a short length of hose and let it sit 6 hours, then flush with fresh water behind it into the Black tank. These are the same enzymes use in compost toilets. It works in all drains. RV or home. Higher water pressure will sometimes do the trick. What has happened is the feces has dried and filled in the spray holes in the flush system. If you are on a staton drug the makes the problem worse.
guskmg
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10-20-2020, 04:34 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
I'm In
, Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,251
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Hi Bob, doing a little research. I found this post you made about the Micro Pulse system. By chance, do you know how to remove the cover of the Micro Pulse panel in the galley? I don't see any screws, but I suspect that it just snaps in place. Do you just pop off the cover and then remove screws to get it out of the wall?
I wanted to swap connectors between 2 tanks to see if it's the wiring or the sensors.
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux
Just my two cents here as we too have a 2014, and have swapped out a failed BW/BF-CkVal ( for the new brass model and valterra CV).
When I winterize I use air only but the big unknown is the BW BF function.
As I understand the BF valve function (which I tested with a garden hose connection prior to installation) is that under low flow (air or water) the BF will not close and remains open with water sometimes coming out the top of the valve. But with increased flow, it closes and if flow is sufficient water continues thru the check valve (which apparently has a pressure rating) to to the BW spray head in the tank. That was confirmed when prior to installation, I hooked both up to a garden hose,
Now that it is installed, when winterizing I use only air. To test it, I install the normal air hose connection at the BW exterior connection and use the compressor. After disconnection, if you blow on the hose connection and it is operating correctly air will pass easily, until there is sufficient flow to to close the BF portion forcing air thru the check valve.
If the valve is operating correctly, you'll feel the flow, followed by delay kick in and the valve closes when you blow harder. Air or water would then continue on to the spray head
No delay the BF valve is stuck closed which is OK....water/air still continues on but you have no BF protection. The BF doesn't stop the flow. However the check valve could. In the old plastic ones the the BF/CH is a combo unit. If it hasn't failed yet, it will. IMO replace it and move on. I cut an access hole in the side of the vanity @ the BF/CV to replace ours and replaces the wood with a vent. All the better to circulate warm are when wither traveling. Lots of freeze delicate plumbing in this area.
Personally I would be surprised if it isn't the spray head. I know in our 20, other's have installed new ones. They must have small hands. I can see mine but I think the process is removing the toilet and the bulkhead that it is attached to.
I would get some liquid calgon from WM, add some OXY/Cascage DW pods or laundry det and fill it with hot water, then let it set over night...maybe a spin around the block. Dump and test.
There was also a recent article in RVLifeE (E version) re BW and the use of microbes to gobble up grime etc.
https://rvlife.com/microbes-holding-...m_medium=email
Goodluck
p.s. I am seriously thinking of removing the CV on the BF valve as I have always used a hose end BF/CV. That way when winterizing I could confirm that in fact all the H20 has been pushed the the BF to the BW tank. I have a low spot between these two points (Thanks JC) and would like to know for sure that water has been pushed thru.
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__________________
-Rich
Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE 4.7L V8
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10-20-2020, 05:18 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,591
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He Rich, let me get back to you tomorrow as I'll be at the trailer. Seems i have a leak from a stripped screw one the front window shield hinge. Grrrr, sloppy JC work.
Mine was replaced but a couple if years ago under warranty. But yes i believe you're on track and snaps onto a base like so many home thermostats.
I realized yesterday i hadn't replied to your last PM, but will tomorrow. Apologies.
__________________
WashMoBob
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10-21-2020, 06:03 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2014 23' International
Hurst
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcskier
My grey tank sensor is very random, usually showing 'full' when it's empty, for example. I just found this writeup on how to recalibrate, which some of you with the older Micro Pulse system might find helpful. I'll report back in after I try it to see if it fixes my issue.
https://seeyoudowntheroad.com/pages/downloads
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Hi Peter... We have the same issue with the Mcro Pulse. After my last - and completely unsuccessful - attempt at recalibration, I told Linda "I'm done" ... No more wasting time and water trying to get it to read even half-way reliably.
I've decided the Micro Pulse system's usefulness extends only to a good place for the pump switch.
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10-21-2020, 08:36 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFP
".....I've decided the Micro Pulse system's usefulness extends only to a good place for the pump switch."
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Amen
__________________
WashMoBob
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10-22-2020, 06:57 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richw46
Hi Bob, doing a little research. I found this post you made about the Micro Pulse system. By chance, do you know how to remove the cover of the Micro Pulse panel in the galley? I don't see any screws, but I suspect that it just snaps in place. Do you just pop off the cover and then remove screws to get it out of the wall?
I wanted to swap connectors between 2 tanks to see if it's the wiring or the sensors.
Thanks
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Rich, the faceplate just snaps into place.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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10-22-2020, 08:12 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
I'm In
, Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
Rich, the faceplate just snaps into place.
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Thanks, Rich. I shall proceed with caution.
__________________
-Rich
Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE 4.7L V8
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10-22-2020, 08:27 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richw46
Thanks, Rich. I shall proceed with caution.
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I went down to my AS parts tub and found the old display. Pry from the top center. Theres a spring tab there. Two slide in clips at bottom.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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10-22-2020, 08:27 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2013 27' FB International
El Dorado Hills
, California
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david.steed
Sorry for the hijack- I have read this a few times- consensus is, SeeLevel is better. Is that difficult to install yourself? Links?
Thanks in advance
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Five years ago I changed over from micropulse to SeeLevel in my then 2-year old trailer. Since then it has worked consistently perfectly accurately. The monitor displays tank fullness in percentage. For example, when the fresh tanks reads 6% or less I know the pump will soon be sucking air. The small error range is due to fact that water always lays level due to gravity, but my camper may not always be perfectly level due to site and operator impatience for his beer after a long drive.
Below is a link to a thread I posted bqck then documenting the work to convert my trailer to SeeLevel. The difficulty level was probably on par with a work to install a solar setup. It took a few days.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=138416
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10-22-2020, 03:28 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
I'm In
, Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
I went down to my AS parts tub and found the old display. Pry from the top center. Theres a spring tab there. Two slide in clips at bottom.
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Thanks, Rich. Raking leaves (and fishing ) these days but should be able to head to the storage lot sometime next week.
__________________
-Rich
Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE 4.7L V8
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10-25-2020, 11:25 AM
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#20
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1 Rivet Member
2010 23' FB Flying Cloud
Poulsbo
, WA
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcskier
The grey sensor is accessible? I know the black sensor is near the drain pipe, but didn't realize the grey was too? I'll have to look. Since they are pressure switches, yes keeping them clean should make a difference!
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Remove the street side end of the sheet metal enclosure around the tank., then you'll see it in the grey water pipe.. it's probably full of gunk.. I replaced mine and now it works fine..
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