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Old 10-11-2005, 05:02 PM   #21
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Thanks Andy. My tank is wedged under a closet wall on one side, and the bathroom cabinet on the other, so I was looking for a way to avoid the extrication process and its corresponding "bad" words. Looks like I'm committed to expanding my vocabulary one way or the other!
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Old 10-11-2005, 05:11 PM   #22
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63flying cloud.

The first, nasty, don't want to hear, can't help saying it, four letter word you will use is,.................................... "work".

Sorry, but sometimes you have to take the horse by the head, instead of the tail. Or is it the other way around?

But, in the long run, it will make you happy.

Andy
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Old 10-11-2005, 06:33 PM   #23
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Good or bad?

After reading this, I thought I'd recheck the dump valve on the 1963 Globetrotter we picked up a couple weeks ago. It turns freely, but doesn't push or pull. Based on this thread, it seems that it should be a pull valve, not a twist -- is that correct? Most of the trailer is original, including the brass or bronze dump valve. 63GT
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Old 10-11-2005, 06:52 PM   #24
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The brass valve "pulls".

But, the brass valve has been obsolete for over 40 years.

It's best to remove the tank, and replace the valve with a modern Thetford valve. You will have to do it, sooner or later, as hundreds of owners have done.

You will need to do some fiberglass work, to make the change.

There are "no" parts for the valve you have.


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Old 10-22-2005, 10:04 PM   #25
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What about the brass pipe?

I am following this thread pretty closely and know that I will need to replace the metal valve on the tank from our 63 Overlander with the glass-in adapter and Thetford valve. What I am unclear about is what to do with the plumbing below the valve. Attached is a shot of the brass black tank outlet with 2 grey-water(?) outlets coming from either side.

Our black tank sits above the floor so we will be reinforcing it (it is not cracked) and doing some cosmetic work on the surface as well.
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Old 10-23-2005, 07:03 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squrlgurl
I am following this thread pretty closely and know that I will need to replace the metal valve on the tank from our 63 Overlander with the glass-in adapter and Thetford valve. What I am unclear about is what to do with the plumbing below the valve. Attached is a shot of the brass black tank outlet with 2 grey-water(?) outlets coming from either side.
That can be replaced with a plastic version. I believe they call it a "collector", if you wanna google "thetford valterra collector"...

or, if you plan on adding grey tanks or reconfiguring the plumbing at all, you might want to reconfigure the whole thing.
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Old 10-23-2005, 10:02 AM   #27
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Thanks Chuck. I "googled" and found a "Double Waste Valve Assembly" by Bladex. If it had another valve on the opposite side of the outlet pipe then I would be set and not have to re-plumb. Hoping to find something with both grey water pipes in place.

-Tracey
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Old 10-23-2005, 11:10 AM   #28
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actually, I think this is the thing I was thinking of; it is what is in my trailer, just beneath the dump valve, with the grey drains entering from the sides. the bayonet end sticks out just below the belly pan, so you can attach the slinky. http://www.dyersonline.com/pc-1741-144-reducing-t.aspx

but I'm sure you can find a way to make those others fit, again, depending on how you want to plumb the grey lines
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Old 04-22-2006, 01:46 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
All holding tanks should be surrounded with fiberglass or styrene.

Additionally, all holding tanks should have heat from the furnace directed direct to the pan. That eliminates the possibility of freeze ups, down to about zero degrees.

The original metal dump valve must be cut off the fiberglass tank.

Then a Thetford "glass on adapter" is fiberglassed to the tank. When that is cured out, you then simply attach a Thetford dump valve to the adapter.
Which valve you use is a function of how creative you may choose to be with the rest of the plumbing piping design.

I have attached a photo of the adapter with one of the valves that can be used.

Andy
Ive been trying to locate a "glass on adaptor" but am having no luck. Anyone know where I get this???
Thanks
Mitch
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Old 04-22-2006, 10:24 PM   #30
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Have you called inland rv ,ask for andy


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Old 04-22-2006, 10:34 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by durans54
Ive been trying to locate a "glass on adaptor" but am having no luck. Anyone know where I get this???
Thanks
Mitch
Dyers RV. They actually call it a "Bond On Adapter". Same thing. Click around, they have all of what you need. Thetford is in the air, that's the third link to them I've posted today!

John
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Old 04-22-2006, 10:34 PM   #32
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I will try them on monday.
Thanks
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Old 11-10-2007, 11:13 AM   #33
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Followup to leaking valve

Hi All,

I have my black water tank out and am wondering if the Thetford Thread-On Adapter at Dyer's is the same as what Andy showed in his pics. It looks similar but I'd prefer to know before purchasing. Also, can one attach an extention to the dump valve for access behind the trailer? Mine is a 63 Safari.

Steve
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Old 11-10-2007, 12:00 PM   #34
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I had the same problem with our 1969 Globetrotter and was able to find a rebuild kit from Vintage Trailer Supply Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!. I am not positive but believe he only had one or two in stock. The kit worked great and I have had no leaks since.
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Old 11-24-2007, 05:28 AM   #35
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Cool Dump Valves

Has anyony replaced leaking dump valves on a 1985 Sov.?
If so please let me know wghat it will take. If you have any pictures pease sent them to me directly. My emai address is rdworian@comcast.net
Thank you so much Russeell in sunny Tucson Az.:innoce nt:
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